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Old 12-28-2014, 03:38 AM   #11
Almost There
 
Join Date: Nov 2014
Location: Paso Robles, CA
Posts: 82
Year: 1973
Coachwork: Gillig
Engine: 1160 V8 Diesel
Rated Cap: 79
Great looking bus guys! Congrats!

Love Auburn, I was recently living up in Rocklin. Great area you're in!

Have fun on the conversion, I'm in the middle of mine as well. Just tore out the ceiling panels, what a chore! Spot-welded, so my tools of choice were air chisel, regular hammer, thick flat head screwdriver, and crowbar. Employed my mind to figure out their installation pattern, and went to town on it. Be careful on the removal, sharp metal panels don't mix well with skin. Pretty much ever.

Looking forward to following your build!

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Old 12-28-2014, 11:31 AM   #12
S1.
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: New Mexico
Posts: 12
Quote:
Originally Posted by hildegard View Post
Next up is figuring out how to pull all of the dang rivets out of the ceiling..... We've tried drilling a few and it works, just takes a long time. Any thoughts?

Try taking a hammer and punch to the center of the rivet first. Depending on what type / design of rivet was used you should be able to knock the center out then drill the remaining part much easier. The center shaft of the rivet is made of harder metal than the outer part which by design makes it possible to install them the way they do.

Drilling them does take longer but it does least amount of damage to the panel if you are planning to reuse them. Hope this helps.
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Old 12-28-2014, 03:23 PM   #13
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Florida
Posts: 584
Year: 1988
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: I.H.
Engine: DT360
Looks great so far!
I wish ours had some of the narrower seats for booth etc.
Keeps updating. We want to follow along as ours is in the same stage and we need something to motivate us to move along.
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Old 12-29-2014, 06:14 AM   #14
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 12,172
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Quote:
Originally Posted by S1. View Post
Try taking a hammer and punch to the center of the rivet first. Depending on what type / design of rivet was used you should be able to knock the center out then drill the remaining part much easier. The center shaft of the rivet is made of harder metal than the outer part which by design makes it possible to install them the way they do.

Drilling them does take longer but it does least amount of damage to the panel if you are planning to reuse them. Hope this helps.
This is absolutely correct. I just finished removing the ceiling and side panels in my bus. We drove the centers out with the pointy bit on an air hammer/chisel, then drilled them out. Any that resisted drilling were air chiseled off.
Took many many hours to do but was worth it.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:34 PM   #15
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Boulder, CO / Auburn, CA
Posts: 12
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC B-Series
Engine: Cat 3126 6-Cyl 7.2L
Hey – we're back! Spent the beginning of winter skiing in Colorado and are now ready to make some serious progress on this build! The last few days have been in demo mode pulling out the floor, side panels, and rotted floor. Then we ground down the rust, painted with a special anti-rust agent, and started building our subfloor. Photos!


Bus was in storage for a few months, luckily she started right up!



Emergency windows were tricky (and there are 8 of them! ) so we just used the angle grinder to cut the tin underneath.

Ceiling is out!



Junkyard dog?





Ceiling panels up by the driver's area were the worst.

All in all, removing the rivets on the ceiling & side panels was a great decision for us. We used an angle grinder for all of it and it took around 1.5 days of work. Luckily the insulation below was in great shape and we didn't find any mold or leaks!


Pulling up the floor...

Lots and lots of rust!

Seriously, so much rust.




Plywood was soaked and rotten, not good.



Lots of nails leftover after the plywood came up.






Anybody know what this hole is for? Located right over the gas tank.


Used the angle grinder to knock down most of the rust. Difference is amazing!



This thing is beyond repair, ordered a new one



Quite the pile of crap! The bus smells SO MUCH BETTER without all of this gross stuff in it.

We painted the floor with a two gallon kit called Direct to Rust Epoxy-Mastic. Supposedly it will encapsulate the rust and prevent new rust from forming.

Updates coming soon – we met with an rv contractor yesterday who is helping us with our electrical, propane, and plumbing. If you have any questions on what we've done so far, fire away!
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:42 PM   #16
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 12,172
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
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I think it's an access hole for maybe the tank sending unit. Mine has it too.
Great pictures, it looks like your having quite a fun time. Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:50 PM   #17
Mini-Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Boulder, CO / Auburn, CA
Posts: 12
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC B-Series
Engine: Cat 3126 6-Cyl 7.2L
Oh! Forgot to ask – currently in the process of ordering our holding tanks (just fresh & gray because we have a composting toilet) online. Looking for ~60 Gal. There are so many online tank retailers! Anyone have a specific recommendation? We don't mind paying a little bit more for top notch service & quality.
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Old 03-13-2015, 01:53 PM   #18
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 12,172
Year: 1992
Coachwork: Ward/AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: dt466
Rated Cap: 78
Id say they're all essentially the same so price shp them by specs.
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Old 03-13-2015, 02:16 PM   #19
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Join Date: May 2014
Location: North Georgia Mountains
Posts: 106
Year: 96
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466
Rated Cap: 75
My AmTran has the same thing, it's to access the sending unit like EastCoast said.
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Old 03-18-2015, 06:53 PM   #20
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Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Boulder, CO / Auburn, CA
Posts: 12
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC B-Series
Engine: Cat 3126 6-Cyl 7.2L
OK, found the tanks we want... now we have to diagram the fittings! If someone could give me a rundown of how these should go / point me in the direction of one, I would love it.

For reference, both tanks will be mounted underneath the bus on the passenger side, fresh in front of the rear wheel well and gray behind. The kitchen and bathroom will be situated directly on top of them. Let me know if you need any other details!
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