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Old 03-20-2015, 05:23 PM   #31
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bookmobile body by Farber
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Navistar DT466/Alison MT643
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Originally Posted by hildegard View Post

First, and most concerning, was that our fridge was in an impossible spot. We had it on an interior "wall," which wouldn't work because it needs to be vented directly outside... big problem. We spent a few afternoons last week re working the layout to move the fridge, include a "normal" square fiberglass shower, and add a bit more storage space.

We ended up moving the fridge to the corner space underneath the counter, which will mean that the door will open underneath the little island. Not ideal, but we have to work with what we've got.

We also downsized from a queen sized bed to a full size bed to fit in our square 32"x32" shower. I think this is actually a really good choice. We had put the queen in there originally because we already have the mattress, but we've lived happily with a full in the past and could really use the extra inches.
I would suggest a quick fabrication that simulates your fridge installation. If your location is what I'm picturing in my mind, I would never get used to reaching under a countertop and essentially around a corner to get into the fridge. I would end up cutting off the peninsula to get direct access to the fridge front.

What will be behind the bed and shower? It looks like you have a little hallway that goes around behind the bed to a small closet/storage space.

When I originally planned my interior, I also had an angled corner base cabinet in my kitchen. They can be great when you fill that space with a double-shelf Lazy Susan. By putting the sink in that cabinet, the plumbing may inhibit the amount of "useful" storage in the cabinet (you may not be able to spin a Lazy Susan). I realize you don't have a lot of options, but a normal 24"-deep base cabinet may give you better access to the back of the cabinet.
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Old 03-20-2015, 06:14 PM   #32
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Location: Boulder, CO / Auburn, CA
Posts: 12
Year: 2001
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC B-Series
Engine: Cat 3126 6-Cyl 7.2L
You're right – it's not super ideal, but for us the benefit of more counter space outweighs the inconvenience of reaching under. If it ends up being a huge pain in the ass, we'll just shorten the counter later.

Behind the bed / shower is our garage area. We'll be traveling with a lot of outdoor gear – mountain bikes, climbing stuff, skis, etc., and we want to be able to keep it organized and separate from the rest of the living area. We have a big emergency exit back there so getting in and out shouldn't be too much of a hassle!

Not sure I follow re: corner cabinets. We organized the kitchen this way so that both of us could work in the kitchen at the same time – I will be able to access the prep area and stove while Will washes dishes simultaneously. Moving the sink to the straight counter would mess up that flow and increasing the depth on the straight counter would decrease the amount of space we have for a diagonal sink... It's like a game of compromise tetris! Luckily we have a pretty large cupboard area right between the bathroom and the kitchen so I think we'll be able to recoup some of our storage there.

On another note – it seems like you have some serious plumbing expertise! I'm trying to order my tanks right now (thinking two of these for fresh / gray, don't need a black) and I'm having quite a time figuring out what fittings to attach, and where they should go. They'll be mounted underneath the bus, right under the kitchen and bathroom. Any thoughts? Thanks in advance!
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Old 03-20-2015, 07:03 PM   #33
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Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 597
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Bookmobile body by Farber
Chassis: International 3800
Engine: Navistar DT466/Alison MT643
Rated Cap: 1
These are the tanks I bought (x2) from They are cheap, but that price doesn't include shipping. The total bill was about $650 delivered. The shipping was pricey because they were strapped to two pallets and that takes up a lot of space on a truck. Also, they were sold as fresh water tanks, so they didn't include fittings for a large, top-mounted, toilet drain entry. Polyethylene can only be fitted with heat-welding—glues won't stick to it—so make sure whatever you get has the correct fittings for its intended use.

Any fresh water tanks mounted outside the heated interior will need to have some kind of heating system if you intend to travel to freezing climates. Black and/or gray tanks can be treated with anti-freeze to keep them in liquid form, but you can't add anything to potable water to keep it from freezing. I think most people mount them inside the bus to avoid the freezing issue.

I used CPVC for my water supply fittings and pipe because it's dirt cheap, but PEX is only a little more expensive and closer to fool-proof for most first-time plumbers. I made a couple of videos showing my plumbing setup:

Camel plumbing 1
Camel plumbing 2
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Old 03-21-2015, 08:49 PM   #34
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Gonvick MN
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Year: 1975
Chassis: Gillig
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Make the drain on your grey tank big (2inch).
Made mine 1 inch takes too long to drain.
You are off to a good start.
Remove hence to yonder place....
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Old 03-22-2015, 10:14 AM   #35
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Pex all the way, start to finish.

Simple, no messy glue, and last's longer than any human. Also freeze resistant.

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