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Old 04-19-2004, 09:26 PM   #1
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Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A
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Page 6 added....

I just finished uploading a completely revamped web page complete with page 6 and LOTS of new photos.
Check out her progress so far at:
1976 International Wayne - ON THE ROAD!!
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Old 04-19-2004, 09:43 PM   #2
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What are you going to use to detail the IH in the hood. I painted mine once but it didn't stick to the plastic for more than a year.
View my 1972 Ward: Topic from the Build : The Picture Gallery
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Old 04-20-2004, 05:45 PM   #3
Join Date: Dec 2003
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Beautiful Paint job !!!!!

I have a couple of questions....Did you use a spray set-up to paint your Bus?
I want to spray-paint our bus ...can anyone point me in the right direction for choosing the type of compressor and spray gun I'll need ?

I have a question about how you did up your holding tanks...

Did you use a rubber tank grommet at the out-flow of the tank?

Michael & Millie
Are you questioning my Aaa-thoritttyy ?
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Old 04-20-2004, 07:14 PM   #4
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Location: Pettytown, Texas, US of A
Posts: 101
For the emblem, a friend is supposed to bring me some one shot sign paint - I think he said one shot was the brand....

Soultrader, try a NAPA for the cylinders if there is one around your area.

On the paint, I bought a HVLP cheapie from Harbor Freight on sale for 49.95. I was shooting some pretty harsh epoxy primer and didn't want to chance my good guns. I should have broke one of them out for the white and black, but's not as smooth as I would have liked. The choice was also dictated by the varying wind - the HVLP transfers A LOT MORE PAINT to the surface than standard spray rigs.
The HVLP requires 9 to 12 CFM at 40 or so PSI, so you would need something pretty beefy to run it. I have a 6 HP 16 CFM feeding a pair of 80 gallon air tanks, but you would probably need a 3 HP electric that could pump a minimum of 7 CFM and stop to let the compressor catch back up when the pressure in the tank dropped below the required 40 - 50 PSI for the gun.

On the tanks, I bought them new from They have a bunch of different shapes and sizes to fit just about anything. I simply chose the sizes and dimenstions that would fit where I wanted and went from there.
Their drinking tanks are white plastic, don't know what kind off of the top of my head, but they don't have any holes in them, I put mine on top with a 1/2' PVC dip tube going to the bottom for water pickup/fill and another 1/2" PVC for vent.
Their black/gray tanks are black plastic, are slanted or tapered to the drain. There is already a 3" outlet located in the bottom of the tank that a piece of 3" SCH 40 PVC slips into rather snuggly. You use a big ole hose clamp on this to clamp it to the PVC. You then locate the inlets and vents on top (or possibly side?) where you want them, then cut them with a hole saw, slip the grommet in the hole, lube the inside of the grommet, THIS IS IMPORTANT: slightly file or sand the edge of the pipe you are going to push into the grommet so it slides in easily, then put it in place after you get the tank mounted where you want it.

My install went like this:
Measure, then mount angle iron to frame adding extra size for plywood on bottom and sides for support/protection.
Add a positive stop strap for tank on front to limit forward movement.
Place tank loosely in mount, center it up and clamp supporting angle iron underneath with C clamps.
Locate holes from top to match your drain and vent lines thru floor and inside walls.
Drill holes.
Remove tanks.
Debur tank holes to remove sharp edges.
Install grommets.
Lube grommets.
Sand pipe end so it goes in smoothly.
I also put a coupling on all my pipes except the one for the toilet so there was a positive stop at the grommet so the pipe would not continue to "sink" into the grommet and possibly pull loose above in the wall or go so deep into the tank that it would not fill properly from the drain.
Reinstall tanks with plywood "wrapper" and angle iron supports clamped in place underneath.
Check for final pipe fit on top and install them.
Weld out or bolt undertank supports in place.
Install stop strap on back of tanks.
Light application of spray foam above tank to help stop noise and insulate floor.
Install 3" and 1 1/2" drain pipes to drain valves and complete plumbing.
Run flush line, valve and spray fitting to black tank.

Take shower and drink a beer to celebrate a day of work and another job done.

Vern takes a break after another book.......BUT IT'S ALL GOOD AS I HOPE IT HELPS SOMEONE OUT!
1976 International Wayne - ON THE ROAD!!
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Old 04-21-2004, 10:01 AM   #5
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Location: Whidbey Island, Washington (USA)
Posts: 465
Hey Vern,

Your books are great and the information helps all of us!

Thanks for all the info and for all the photos you've posted here and on your site. You've done an outstanding job on your bus and it's been extremely helpful to see what you've done.

And, you've ended up with a real cool (or is that Skool) rig!
Les Lampman
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Old 04-22-2004, 08:38 AM   #6
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Location: Grundy, Virginia
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Year: 1985
Coachwork: ThomasBuilt
Chassis: International Harvester S-1700
Engine: 9L IHC V-8 Diesel 180HP
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The hard work is worth the effort!

The hard work is worth the effort! The bus is really looking spiffy, AND well constructed. The pictures and commentary are an immense help to me in planning (in my mind for now) my own project.
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