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Old 04-09-2005, 09:04 PM   #11
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Progress Report 04/09/2005

Whew. Painting.

Got one coat on the roof. I'm using BPS tractor paint from Tractor Supply Company. It seems to be a pretty good product. Looks nice and shiny. I'm painting outside and it's Spring here in South Carolina. There is a tree about 50 feet away that keeps dropping little flower things on the bus. Grrr.. I'll have to use some fine steel wool before I put the second coat on the roof. I'm working on the right side now. Hope to get it done by midnight. I wanted to get the whole thing done today. We'll see how this side goes. The time consuming part is cutting in the recessed bolt heads on the lower side of the rub rails, and going around all the rub rail seams. I could probably just use the roller for that, but I want to paint this ONCE (period). I'm not getting the coverage I expected from the paint, but then I never do. I think it's going to take me 4 or 5 gallons. I started with three, but the roof took almost entirely one, so I went out and got another 2. If I have any left over, I'll use it for the ceiling inside.

I got a used 4 hole stainless steel sink for $15.00. The exact same sink lists for about $45 or $50 at Home Depot or Lowe's. This one had some latex paint stuck to it where someone must have laid a wet brush on it, but that came off easily, and it looks brand new. So I got a free faucet and a $15 sink for my kitchen! Woohoo! I stopped by a dumpster that had a vanity top/sink leaning next to it. It was the right size, but it was fiberglass and the drain hole area was destroyed.

Since I'm going to use a rainbarrel for a tub/shower pan, and rough, weathered pallet boards for "siding" in the bathroom area, I thought I'd go with a really rustic/country/pioneer theme in the bathroom area. That gave me an idea for the plumbing and the bathroom sink. I'm going to use exposed black iron pipe for the plumbing (paint it with some antiqueing spray paint or something), and brass hose bibs for the faucets! I'm thinking about using a garden hose and lawn sprayer for the shower, if I can find one that looks like something you'd use on a farm rather than in a garden. I wonder if feed-sacks make good curtains!?!?

Tractor Supply has a 50 gallon square shaped water tank that I'm going to use for a fresh water tank. It's only $95. That's about as cheap a per gallon storage cost as I've been able to find.

Just having too much fun and spending too much money.

Oh, boy! Food just arrived. Gotta eat and get back to work!
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Old 04-11-2005, 04:56 PM   #12
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Re: Progress Report 04/09/2005

Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric von Kleist
Whew. Painting.

Got one coat on the roof. I'm using BPS tractor paint from Tractor Supply Company. It seems to be a pretty good product. Looks nice and shiny. I'm painting outside and it's Spring here in South Carolina. There is a tree about 50 feet away that keeps dropping little flower things on the bus. Grrr.. I'll have to use some fine steel wool before I put the second coat on the roof. I'm working on the right side now. Hope to get it done by midnight. I wanted to get the whole thing done today. We'll see how this side goes. The time consuming part is cutting in the recessed bolt heads on the lower side of the rub rails, and going around all the rub rail seams. I could probably just use the roller for that, but I want to paint this ONCE (period). I'm not getting the coverage I expected from the paint, but then I never do. I think it's going to take me 4 or 5 gallons. I started with three, but the roof took almost entirely one, so I went out and got another 2. If I have any left over, I'll use it for the ceiling inside.
What are you using to paint with. a house sprayer from home-depot, a professional gun w/ a portable air compressor?? what do you recommend now that you just did it?? My buddy is convenced that rolling the whole bus would be the best rout, but i want it to look half way good cause I'm gonna have to buy cheap paint. Also, one more q, where did you get your paint? and did you primer prior to shooting?

ok, so thats two more...
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Old 04-11-2005, 05:24 PM   #13
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Painting and such

Hi Andy,

I'm in the same boat, thinking about painting. I've read through the archives and people try multiple things, but those with exp. seem to think that a spray job is best done by a pro, and that the roller gives a nice finish otherwise. I'm thinking about checking with a voc-tech to see if they'd be willing to spray it for me, other than that I'm thinking Bus Kote or something similar on the roof, and then rustoleum cans on the body, by roller and sponge brush.

Keep us posted!
Branden
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Old 04-11-2005, 09:13 PM   #14
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I went out and bought a spray gun for pretty cheap...maybe 50 bucks? I already had a large air compressor so that ceritainly helped. I didn't have much expierence at all with painting. I decided to start on the roof so that my early mistakes would be difficult to notice. By the time i finished with the top of the bus i felt i was rather proficient at spraying. It really is pretty simple.......but then again, a roller is a lot cheaper.
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Old 04-11-2005, 09:50 PM   #15
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Re: Progress Report 04/09/2005

Quote:
Originally Posted by dammitAndy
What are you using to paint with. a house sprayer from home-depot, a professional gun w/ a portable air compressor?? what do you recommend now that you just did it?? My buddy is convenced that rolling the whole bus would be the best rout, but i want it to look half way good cause I'm gonna have to buy cheap paint. Also, one more q, where did you get your paint? and did you primer prior to shooting?

ok, so thats two more...
I have a compressor, and I'd LOVE to have been spraying, but I'm working in the front of a very small yard next to my neighbor's driveway. Spray would mean certain death for me at his hands.

I'm using a roller. The cheapest kind possible. I've been using some cheap semi-smooth (3/8" nap) rollers, but might should have used a shorter nap. Also, I probably should have used a better quality roller, since they last a good long time (if you seal them up in a plastic grocery bag between uses), and they might not leave the odd bit of roller fuzz in the paint (rubbing them briskly in your hand a while before use helps to get some of the fuzzies out). All in all, though, for the $$ and the disposability, the cheap rollers are okay.

Also I'm using some cheap chip brushes (bristle) for small crannies, the inside of the drip rail, etc. Also was using a cheap 3" foam trim roller, but it leaves the paint flat looking for some reason, so I got a real 4" trim roller with the regular rollers. The small roller is a life saver in the small spaces, and well worth the expense.

The Tractor Paint applied with the roller looks very nice. It comes out shiny and even. I thinned the second coat with the recommended amount of mineral spirits (well, I could fit 5 ounces in the can without taking paint out of the fresh can to get the rest of the thinner in, not the entire 8 ounces), and it turned out to be a pretty good mixture. I'd recommend thinning it for the first coat, too, as it makes the paint level better once you have a layer on the bus. It helps it to smooth out. From 15 feet away, this looks pretty much like a spray job, so the results can be good. Just be careful not to get any drips and runs, and you'll be all right.

One thing that I found that helps is to do a small section (3'x3') at a time, then do a section next to that. THEN go back over the first section -- not with a freshly loaded roller, but with the emptied out roller you just finished the second section with. It will have gotten slightly tacky by the time you get back to it, and the second rolling will smooth it out more and pop and smooth over any little air bubbles that may have been left from the first rolling (which probably wouldn't be there in the firsh place if I had used the shorter nap -- fine surface nap).

I did not prime the bus. I started sanding with a palm sander. Then I burned it out (cheap one $8.00) and got smart and switched to a 1/3 sheet sander (Black and Decker, rectangular, not square palm sander). I sanded through the top layer of paint down to fresh paint. I used 100 grit regular old sandpaper. Buy about 5 packs of 5 sheets each, and tear them all into thirds (measure to see which direction first!) That will save you time over stopping to tear as sheet each time. I sanded down through the dead paint, not clear to the metal, but just through the dead paint. You can tell when you get there. Then blew it off with compressor. Then wiped with mineral spirits.

If that ain't proper paintshop procedures, I apologize, but it's how we painted farm equipment when I was a boy, and it always worked. I primed one or two small rust spots with spray Rustoleum for rusty metal. Other than that, no priming. I'm glad, too.

I got my paint at Tractor Supply Company. It's a ValSpar product called BPS (Best Paint Sold) Tractor and Implement Enamel. Seems to be pretty good stuff. All the oil based paints are around $20 per gallon, and this is designed for farm equipment . It looks like I'm going to end up using about 4 gallons of paint, maybe five, and that's going to get me 2 coats. You might save $3 or $4 a gallon on paint, but I think buying the good paint will probably be an economy in the long run. You'd only save $15 or $20 on 5 gallons, and if it means you have to repaint in 2 years because you used the cheap paint, you'd be spending money (AND TIME) all over again (or you bus might just look crappy).

I'm not striving for perfect. This ain't a classic Ferrari that deserves ungodly expensive Imron paint. It's a big 20 year old bus. I want it to look neat, that's all.

Oh, and I only want to paint this bus ONCE!!!![/b]
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Old 04-11-2005, 10:16 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lapeer20m
I went out and bought a spray gun for pretty cheap...maybe 50 bucks? I already had a large air compressor so that ceritainly helped. I didn't have much expierence at all with painting. I decided to start on the roof so that my early mistakes would be difficult to notice. By the time i finished with the top of the bus i felt i was rather proficient at spraying. It really is pretty simple.......but then again, a roller is a lot cheaper.

Lapeer, where did you get your paint??? and did you primer it first after cleaning and sanding? if so, what did you use for that, and did you spray that on too?
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Plotting the next project now. Looking for a clean diesel pusher with low rust/miles. Identical plans with plumming and biodiesel added :)
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Old 04-11-2005, 11:38 PM   #17
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i bought my paint from sherwin williams. it's an acrylik fast dry enamel. I got a good deal @ $13.00 per gallon. I think it usually lists for a lot more. I have connections!

I"m not really happy with the paint. I've repainted my bus every year i've owned it. Oddly enough, i purchased a quart of paint from tractor supply a couple weeks ago with anticipation of using that to paint the bus this go round. I wanted to spray a bit of the tsc paint and make sure it looks good before i buy more.

for primer on my bus i used some quick dry primer that i also got from sherwin williams. I didn't really do any sanding or anything prior to painting, just washed the bus and let her dry first......perhaps this is why i have annual paint problems.

Taping Sucks!
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Old 04-12-2005, 12:13 PM   #18
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Painting Addendum

A couple of things occurred to me whilst I was painting.

First: if you need primer, do use it. The BPS Tractor and Implement Enamel suggests that you use primer over rust. Rustoleum makes two kinds of primer, a clean metal primer and a rusty metal primer. The company says NOT to use the rusty metal primer over clean metal or paint because the fish oil in the rusty metal primer will prevent good paint adhesion. I used a few spritzes of the rusty metal primer from a spray can on the couple of areas that I had that were rusted. The rest I just sanded down to fresh paint and painted on top of that.

Second: I also used steel wool on the paint prior to wiping down with mineral spirits. I used a coarse wool over the old paint before the first coat, and a 00 (not the very finest size, which is 0000) over the first coat before applying the second coat. I steel-wooled the surface, wiped with mineral oil, then painted.

We are having Spring right now, which means lots of pollen. I got it off before painting, but I'm not sure how much was deposited while I painted. I may end up with a yellow bus after all!

In a few minutes I will have posted a few painting pictures in the Paradim Shift Gallery on page 8.
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Old 04-12-2005, 11:49 PM   #19
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There is a great alternative to masking tape and paper when masking for paint. I found it through making vinyl graphics and painting vehicles. Use vinyl graphics application tape to mask the area. You can write on it with pencil or marker and cut it with a razor to make any design you want. Plus, it's very cheap.

Find it here...

http://www.signcatalog.com/Merchant2...gory_Code=A-RS
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Old 04-13-2005, 09:54 AM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Firearm
There is a great alternative to masking tape and paper when masking for paint. I found it through making vinyl graphics and painting vehicles. Use vinyl graphics application tape to mask the area. You can write on it with pencil or marker and cut it with a razor to make any design you want. Plus, it's very cheap.
So it is easy to pull off too??
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