PNW_Steve's 2002 Bluebird A3RE

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by family wagon

Well you've now looked at the monitor circuit more closely than I have! Is that switch-in-coil lamp outage monitor circuit used for all the lights on the monitor, or only for the 8-way flashers? It seems like a source of trouble if the multi-lamp circuits (clearance, brake, etc) went through in the same way.

Yes I think your approach for bypassing/deleting the monitor sounds fine.

It is connected to the 8 way as well as the rear turn signals, running lights, brake lights and backup lights. Just the rear though, none of the front or side lights.

I have been fiddling with it for a few hours and think I have it figured out.

All of the individual spade connectors with yellow & black wires are the 8 ways. I pulled them all off and all of my necessary lights still work

The two multipin connectors run the remaining back lights.

As best as I have figured out I will be cutting all of the wires to these two connectors and connecting wires of like color together.

Example:

The two Yellows are Left Turn Signal
The two Green are Right Turn Signal
The three Red are the Brake Lights

So I will connect the yellows together and connect the greens together etc.

I have tested this as best I can by pulling the two connectors off of the board and testing with jumpers.

I fell asleep on the job and forgot to order a new solder gun. I have that on the way now and will carry forward when it gets here.

A note on the splices:

These will be buried in the finished conversion so I want them done right. I will be using uninsulated crimp butt connectors. After they are crimped I will solder them then cover with heat shrink. I have found this to be a neat and nearly bulletproof method of making connections.

[Twigg]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

These will be buried in the finished conversion so I want them done right. I will be using uninsulated crimp butt connectors. After they are crimped I will solder them then cover with heat shrink. I have found this to be a neat and nearly bulletproof method of making connections.

I don't like crimped connectors at all.

I have found that simply stripping back the insulating, soldering the wires together longitudinally and covering the connection with electrical tape, then heat-shrink, makes a great connection.

I've never had one fail.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Twigg

I don't like crimped connectors at all.

I have found that simply stripping back the insulating, soldering the wires together longitudinally and covering the connection with electrical tape, then heat-shrink, makes a great connection.

I've never had one fail.

The non-insulated butt connectors are mostly to hold the wires in place while I solder them. In 35 years of car stereo and 2 way radio installation this is the easiest and neatest method I have found to make quality connections.

But, to each their own. I have done it your way and had reasonably good results as well.

[PNW_Steve]

Anyone here have the Spinweld tool for 1.5" fittings?

https://www.vintagetrailersupply.com...p/vts-624t.htm

If so, would you sell, loan or rent it to me?

I need to install a couple of fittings in my tanks and hate to spend full retail for a tool that I will use once.

Thanks.

S.

[Rovobay]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

It is connected to the 8 way as well as the rear turn signals, running lights, brake lights and backup lights. Just the rear though, none of the front or side lights.

I have been fiddling with it for a few hours and think I have it figured out.

All of the individual spade connectors with yellow & black wires are the 8 ways. I pulled them all off and all of my necessary lights still work

The two multipin connectors run the remaining back lights.

As best as I have figured out I will be cutting all of the wires to these two connectors and connecting wires of like color together.

Example:

The two Yellows are Left Turn Signal
The two Green are Right Turn Signal
The three Red are the Brake Lights

So I will connect the yellows together and connect the greens together etc.

I have tested this as best I can by pulling the two connectors off of the board and testing with jumpers.

I fell asleep on the job and forgot to order a new solder gun. I have that on the way now and will carry forward when it gets here.

A note on the splices:

These will be buried in the finished conversion so I want them done right. I will be using uninsulated crimp butt connectors. After they are crimped I will solder them then cover with heat shrink. I have found this to be a neat and nearly bulletproof method of making connections.

I am in the same boat as you. I want that thing gone. I disconnected it and realized that my rear brakes and turn signals didn't work so I put it back for the time being. I really want to take out a few miles of wiring before I button things up. I hate electrical work, but I can handle it and just take it slow. it'll be worth it in the end.

[PNW_Steve]

Light monitor before:

[PNW_Steve]

Light monitor removed and I still have lights. Yay!

[PNW_Steve]

The coolant lines for the heaters were run inside the bus except where the emergency exit is (was...). At that point they drop through the floor and come back up on the other side of the door opening.

After much pulling, poking and prodding I came to the conclusion that to remove them would require removing the storage bays.

Not going to happen.

I cut them off flush with the floor and am going to abandon them in place.

[PNW_Steve]

Back to roof raise tasks.

I am trying to figure out how to deal with a couple of spots up front where I cannot access the rib to weld from the outside.

I am thinking that I will drill several holes in the rib, clamp the square tube in place and plug weld from the inside.

Like so:

[Tryonis]

I am at this same stage, have you thought of running them at the top of the bay? Like yours mine run inside the bay for the length of the emergency door.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Tryonis

I am at this same stage, have you thought of running them at the top of the bay? Like yours mine run inside the bay for the length of the emergency door.

Mine are between the bay and the floor. Quite inaccessible.

I am going to run the replacements along the frame rails to the front heater.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Back to roof raise tasks.

I am trying to figure out how to deal with a couple of spots up front where I cannot access the rib to weld from the outside.

I am thinking that I will drill several holes in the rib, clamp the square tube in place and plug weld from the inside.

Like so:

That will be more than adequate. This is possibly a way a roof can be raised from the roof line and not the middle of the windows.

[PNW_Steve]

Here is how most or the bows/extensions are welded:

[PNW_Steve]

Marc,

here are the additional pics you asked for:

[PNW_Steve]

Does that answer your questions?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Does that answer your questions?

Yes, I forgot yours was the one that, IMHO, was done "correctly".
Are you putting the windows back n the factory location? Or RV windows?
What are your plans for the back, remove, repair, raise? Or modify?

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Yes, I forgot yours was the one that, IMHO, was done "correctly".
Are you putting the windows back n the factory location?
What are your plans for the back, remove, repair, raise? Or modify?

Thank you.

I will be installing RV windows.

I am going to cut the back section down far enough to create a flat deck and mount the outdoor portion of two mini splits.

It will look something like this:

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Thank you.

I will be installing RV windows.

I am going to cut the back section down far enough to create a flat deck and mount the outdoor portion of two mini splits.

It will look something like this:

Yup, good use of space. Good idea even for window mounted unit if the raise is high enough. Carry on

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Yup, good use of space. Good idea even for window mounted unit if the raise is high enough. Carry on

I considered a window unit in the back to save a few $ but finally decided on a 9k Btu mini-split due to the low energy consumption. I will be able to cool the bedroom a bit from battery/inverter if needed.

According to Pioneer, that unit will consume less than 500 watts on low.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

The coolant lines for the heaters were run inside the bus except where the emergency exit is (was...). At that point they drop through the floor and come back up on the other side of the door opening.

After much pulling, poking and prodding I came to the conclusion that to remove them would require removing the storage bays.

Not going to happen.

I cut them off flush with the floor and am going to abandon them in place.

What are you going to use for defroster heat?