PNW_Steve's 2002 Bluebird A3RE

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by 2martins

What are you going to use for defroster heat?

I left the original driver's area heater/defroster. I am going to run new coolant lines along the frame rails to the front of the bus.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I left the original driver's area heater/defroster. I am going to run new coolant lines along the frame rails to the front of the bus.

Mine is seriously nasty. I can't clean the fins (or whatever you call those metal things at the back) well. But there's no point in replacing them with something else that I can't clean and has no air filter. The original one was actually open to the area under the dash due to a significant crack in the housing where it wasn't lined up right. I can use sikkaflex or something on it and maybe it won't get AS gross. I used compressed air to blow it out as well as I could....

[PNW_Steve]

Finally getting back to some bus work.

I REALLY got spoiled having Asetecrail helping me out. After working with him on the roof raise I find that working on by myself is not nearly as much fun. Kent, your assistance has been MUCH appreciated!! When you get back to WW we need to have dinner again.

But I am back at it and fooling with sheet metal. I am puttering with how the new metal will fit into the existing metal. I stuffed a piece up under the roof metal, drilled a hole and attempted to place a cleco. Didn't play so well...

The roof metal is pulled far enough away from the hat chanel that the clecos are too short and too stiff to bend easily back in place. I need to such the roof metal back in place so that I can rivet it. Is there a special tool for this?

Any suggestions?

Thanks.

S.

[family wagon]

EDIT: removed comments about getting the new exterior sheet hung on the walls. That was done and fully riveted before I did anything about fastening the roof edge down, which is what Steve asked about.

I went inside the bus and located in the C-shape header at the top of each bay (between vertical hat channels) where the original line of rivets at the bottom edge of the roof metal had been. I drilled 2-3 of these through from inside toward outside.

Finally I went back outside the bus and pushed a #10x1 inch machine screw through the existing rivet hole in the roof metal, through the newly-drilled hole in the new wall sheet, and through the existing hole in the C header. An assistant on the inside put a nut on it and we spun it down snug. Repeat for the other two holes drilled above.

That took the roof metal down close enough that I could drill the remainder of the holes and buck rivets into all of them, removing the machine screws at the appropriate time.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by family wagon

EDIT: removed comments about getting the new exterior sheet hung on the walls. That was done and fully riveted before I did anything about fastening the roof edge down, which is what Steve asked about.

I went inside the bus and located in the C-shape header at the top of each bay (between vertical hat channels) where the original line of rivets at the bottom edge of the roof metal had been. I drilled 2-3 of these through from inside toward outside.

Finally I went back outside the bus and pushed a #10x1 inch machine screw through the existing rivet hole in the roof metal, through the newly-drilled hole in the new wall sheet, and through the existing hole in the C header. An assistant on the inside put a nut on it and we spun it down snug. Repeat for the other two holes drilled above.

That took the roof metal down close enough that I could drill the remainder of the holes and buck rivets into all of them, removing the machine screws at the appropriate time.

Great description! I can visualize almost all of it. One clarification: do I understand correctly that you put the metal in place then riveted the sides followed by the top?

Thanks.

S.

[PNW_Steve]

Just got my first quote back on metal to cover the windows. Only the windows.... Not the front or rear cap metal.... $995.04 plus tax.......

Only about double of what I expected. Waiting on additional quotes and hoping for a better deal.

[PNW_Steve]

Metal quote #2 - $923 plus tax.....

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by family wagon

EDIT: removed comments about getting the new exterior sheet hung on the walls. That was done and fully riveted before I did anything about fastening the roof edge down, which is what Steve asked about.

I went inside the bus and located in the C-shape header at the top of each bay (between vertical hat channels) where the original line of rivets at the bottom edge of the roof metal had been. I drilled 2-3 of these through from inside toward outside.

Finally I went back outside the bus and pushed a #10x1 inch machine screw through the existing rivet hole in the roof metal, through the newly-drilled hole in the new wall sheet, and through the existing hole in the C header. An assistant on the inside put a nut on it and we spun it down snug. Repeat for the other two holes drilled above.

That took the roof metal down close enough that I could drill the remainder of the holes and buck rivets into all of them, removing the machine screws at the appropriate time.

Self tapping screws are often used to pull the metal into shape for riveting.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by o1marc

Self tapping screws are often used to pull the metal into shape for riveting.

Good thought but there is not a good spot along the top to put the screws in the spot that I need to manipulate. It is at the very bottom of the roof metal and I have the goofy "rain shades", or whatever you want to call them, to deal with. There is pretty much only room for the two rivets. one on each side of the hat chanel.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Good thought but there is not a good spot along the top to put the screws in the spot that I need to manipulate. It is at the very bottom of the roof metal and I have the goofy "rain shades", or whatever you want to call them, to deal with. There is pretty much only room for the two rivets. one on each side of the hat chanel.

I can't picture it in my mnd. Could you have stated from the other end of the metal? Start securing the end that needs manipulating first?

[BlackJohn]

Just wondering if there might be a way to rig ratchet strap(s) to get you started riveting. Attach a couple of slings with eyes somewhere and draw the ratchet up as tight as you need it.


John

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Just got my first quote back on metal to cover the windows. Only the windows.... Not the front or rear cap metal.... $995.04 plus tax.......

Only about double of what I expected. Waiting on additional quotes and hoping for a better deal.

Dang, I could get you the steel and ship it for that. Or maybe even less!

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Just wondering if there might be a way to rig ratchet strap(s) to get you started riveting. Attach a couple of slings with eyes somewhere and draw the ratchet up as tight as you need it.


John

That's what I used to cover the roof hatches. And my front transition "cap".

[BlackJohn]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

That's what I used to cover the roof hatches. And my front transition "cap".

Credit goes to you for that idea my man! , thought I had seen that someplace. Did you have to weld rings on for the hooks or how did that work?

[plfking]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Metal quote #2 - $923 plus tax.....

Is there a Metal Supermarket anywhere near you? I've found their pricing is better than anyone else's in my area.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BlackJohn

Credit goes to you for that idea my man! , thought I had seen that someplace. Did you have to weld rings on for the hooks or how did that work?

Nah, just used whatever was available to grab hold of.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I can't picture it in my mnd. Could you have stated from the other end of the metal? Start securing the end that needs manipulating first?

I may have to post a picture to illustrate.

There are two rivets in the roof metal between each "eyebrow". This is where I am having trouble. There is one rivet on each side of the hat channel that sits between the eyebrows.

I need to pull that portion tight.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by plfking

Is there a Metal Supermarket anywhere near you? I've found their pricing is better than anyone else's in my area.

I wish......

I am in a remote rural community. We have 5000 people in the county. Two towns and one stop light in the entire county.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

Dang, I could get you the steel and ship it for that. Or maybe even less!

I know. It sucks.

I can drive 5 hours to Seattle and get it for half the price. Then add time and travel costs and it is not a bargain.

[plfking]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I wish......

I am in a remote rural community. We have 5000 people in the county. Two towns and one stop light in the entire county.

Well....on the bright side....you probably have the nicest bus in the entire county.