PNW_Steve's 2002 Bluebird A3RE

[cadillackid]

I fly Solo I can paint my bus bright red if I want to!!!

oh and I can go get more busses too!!!

Flying Solo also ensures im never RIDING the short bus! only DRIVING it!. ha!

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

I studied Elliotts build and wondered why he cut where he did.

When I got to where I could see the inside of the front cap it looks like they used a generous amount of adhesive in the joint that joins the front cap to the top of the windshield frame.

I am concerned that if I use enough brute force to separate that joint that I may damage the windshield frame or the glass itself.

I am hoping that Elliott will chime in and share his reasons for why he cut where he did and that will give us some insight.

If your plan is to paint anyways I would hit that joint with a propane torch and try and burn the glue out, it's worth a try.

[Thomas1985]

I am actually at the same point you are today. We are deciding to cut at the very top of the windows underneath the riveted top cap. Of course we have very different buses but we feel better not removing the rivets and just cutting and raising the whole top right below those rivets.

[Elliot Naess]

You rang?
Only an hour ago, I arrived home from opening night of the first theatrical production of my life.
It is only a local amateur theater company, but fun anyway -- and "my speed", considering I never tried acting before.
We are doing George Orwell's classic Animal Farm, and I have three roles. Primarily, I open the play with a ten minute monologue -- and that thing is "a bit of a task" to memorize.

I inflicted that information on you... so you will hopefully understand that I am somewhat preoccupied at the moment.
But I should be able to look at this in a few days.

For right now... off the top of my head... I cut the front cap the way I did to avoid disturbing the windshield frame, yes.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Well I have finally managed the time and energy, at the same time, to get started on the interior of my 2002 Bluebird A3RE.

The seats came out when I first bought it. I wanted to title it as a motorhome initially as opposed to registering it as a bus and changing it later so the seats had to go.

Over the past week I have managed to pull the ceiling panels and most of the wall panels.

Plans include a roof raise. I am hoping to find someone who has done a similar Bluebird raise to give me a hand. I would be quite happy to pay a fair fee for qualified help. Volunteers?

After the roof raise we will be spraying the interior with 2 part closed cell foam insulation. I found a (somewhat) local outfit that will do it for about $1200.

Additional plans include 1200-1500 watts of solar and mini-split A/C's.

I just moved the Bluebird to the house last week. No complaints from the neighbors yet....

How did you get the last of the ick that the insulation was stuck to the ceiling with? There isn't much on mine, but there is a little.

[2martins]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Here are some additional pics.

You can see the oops on the rear cap. I am still trying to settle on a plan for attacking that. I have a buddy that does body work. I am going to have him tale a look when he gets back from vacation and see if he has any suggestions.

Mine has a little oopsie on the back, too. I think it's gonna stay. I am astounded that I managed to avoid installing another oopsie on the side pulling into my driveway. I only hit a snow bank with the rear end and it just smushed the snow without doing anything to the bus.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by 2martins

How did you get the last of the ick that the insulation was stuck to the ceiling with? There isn't much on mine, but there is a little.

6" plastic putty knife scraped it off nicely.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by 2martins

Mine has a little oopsie on the back, too. I think it's gonna stay. I am astounded that I managed to avoid installing another oopsie on the side pulling into my driveway. I only hit a snow bank with the rear end and it just smushed the snow without doing anything to the bus.

I think that I am going to cut the damaged portion out and build a spot for my mini split condensors.

[Asetechrail]

Went and picked up the allthread and nuts today. Went with 1 inch. Will get the pipe and bar stock welded up this week. 1 inch might be overkill but I would rather err on the side of too much rather than too little.

I’ve got to remember to hold the phone correctly so my pictures don’t post sideways.

[PNW_Steve]

Awesome!!!!

I started on the river removal. It's going slow on the rub rail trying to get the rivets out completely without damaging the metal has been a challenge.

I am going to call and check on a rivet removal tool.

[Ninjakitty]

Originally Posted by PNW_Steve

Awesome!!!!

I started on the river removal. It's going slow on the rub rail trying to get the rivets out completely without damaging the metal has been a challenge.

I am going to call and check on a rivet removal tool.

Someone on another thread mentioned a rivets shaver. I looked them up and the run between $150 (used) up to about $400. I guess the investment may be worth the time if you have enough rivets to remove. You can always sell it when finished to recoup some of the cost.

Sent from my Vivo 5R using Tapatalk

[Tango]

Very handy tool. Just make sure you get the cutting head for steel...not aluminum.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by Tango

Very handy tool. Just make sure you get the cutting head for steel...not aluminum.

That's the question I have regarding the one from Aircraft Spruce that was recommended.

[PNW_Steve]

I decided to try grinding the heads off with a flap disc and punching out the body. Some of the bodies are not coming out. I am going to have to figure out how to deal with those. The ones between the windows have not been a problem as I am able to grind on them again after I pull the metal off of the hat chanel between the windows. The ones behind the rub rail are a bit of a problem.

[brokedown]

Steve,

I've been doing great with the air chisel method. Using the punch to pop the mandrel out, then the chisel to pop the head off, and if necessary using the punch again to pop the rest of the rivet body out.

At least, that's the method for steel rivets. Aluminum ones are easier, I pop the head off with the chisel and use a drill to remove the body.Most of them just pop right out when you touch them but a few were warped enough that spinning the drill bit was necessary.


It's important that you have a sharp edge on the chisel bit with a slight curve on the side that goes against the panel, otherwise you can damage the metal. Also after sharpening with a grinder you really gotta heat temper the chisel again or it will be too soft to be useful.

I've removed a million rivets so far and only have another 3 million to go.

[PNW_Steve]

Originally Posted by brokedown

Steve,

I've been doing great with the air chisel method. Using the punch to pop the mandrel out, then the chisel to pop the head off, and if necessary using the punch again to pop the rest of the rivet body out.

At least, that's the method for steel rivets. Aluminum ones are easier, I pop the head off with the chisel and use a drill to remove the body.Most of them just pop right out when you touch them but a few were warped enough that spinning the drill bit was necessary.


It's important that you have a sharp edge on the chisel bit with a slight curve on the side that goes against the panel, otherwise you can damage the metal. Also after sharpening with a grinder you really gotta heat temper the chisel again or it will be too soft to be useful.

I've removed a million rivets so far and only have another 3 million to go.

That worked great on the interior. Those were a piece of cake compared to the ones outside. No mandrel and much larger.

I just picked up a new "bullet" drill bit the the guy at the hardware store swears will make short work of them. Gonna give that a try as well.

[Elliot Naess]

I'm back.
Is this the stuff you want to ask about?







If so... you may be overthinking it.
What I remember -- and it was a dozen years ago -- is that I simply did whatever seemed would work all right, as I went along.

Next time -- and it may be approaching -- I can probably improve on a few things.

One item that can be upgraded... is where to cut all the window posts. It would make more sense to alternate cutting them high and low, for better alignment and better structural integrity. (All in a line... invites failure along that line.)

Other than such basic engineering... remember, we're not building a piano here.

[1olfart]

I thought I remembered someone saying that (staggering cut lines) a few years ago, but couldn't remember who it was. I tried to remember, every time the subject came up, but just kept my mouth shut. Seems that it would be structurally better.

[Tango]

Staggering the cut was recommended to me by a retired Blue Bird engineer who lived down the road in Georgia. He noted that it would avoid creating a "weak line" so that's what I did on my old BBAA.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Tango

Staggering the cut was recommended to me by a retired Blue Bird engineer who lived down the road in Georgia. He noted that it would avoid creating a "weak line" so that's what I did on my old BBAA.

I'm not buying this. It would create a weak line if you cut the same place all around and then welded that back together. if you are raising it with pieces of metal bent in a "U" and welding each at all 4 ends I think you would find that, even if it were "weaker" it will still hame way more structural integrity than is required. the ribs are welded and then skins riveted to it makes it an extremely solid structure. I would not be concerned at all unless they were just extremely poor welds.