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Old 09-19-2018, 01:21 PM   #21
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Originally Posted by Brewerbob View Post
Hope that's true for me too. Or at least worth what I owe on it.
I paid 46k for this place and its one of the nicer ones on my street. A really rough one next door just sold for 140k.
Time to cash in.

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Old 09-19-2018, 01:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I paid 46k for this place and its one of the nicer ones on my street. A really rough one next door just sold for 140k.
Time to cash in.
If that were the case, I would have cash out long ago.


I bought at 236, refied at 280 something, and owe about 238. Might be worth about that now.
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Old 09-19-2018, 02:51 PM   #23
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If that were the case, I would have cash out long ago.


I bought at 236, refied at 280 something, and owe about 238. Might be worth about that now.
Market is STILL climbing, but yeah we're gonna sell high and buy some land outside town.
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Old 09-19-2018, 03:09 PM   #24
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One of you crusty old basstards with 137 yrs experience in a body shop needs to do a thorough write-up of painting sheet metal and/or painting over bus paint.
Somebody is going to resemble that remark
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Old 09-19-2018, 03:25 PM   #25
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I would love to hear more details from knowledgeable members.

I am winding up with areas of bare metal. I sand it, wipe it down with acetone and spray it with Rustolium auto primer from a rattle can.

I thought that should work. Unfortunately, I can go out the next day and scrape it off with my thumbnail.

Any suggestions regarding materials and methods is appreciated.
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Old 09-19-2018, 07:12 PM   #26
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All primers are not equal. Most run of the mill primers will attract and hold moisture resulting in rusting. The exceptions are...


1. Weld thru primer (it is basically cold galvanizing)
2. Self Etching primer ( it does not hold moisture)...and
3. Fancy shcmancy two part epoxy primer ($$$).


NOTE...no primer can be left uncoated/unpainted for ever, but...I have used #1 & #2 above and they have held up for about six years now with no issues...so far.
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Old 09-20-2018, 07:43 AM   #27
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Market is STILL climbing, but yeah we're gonna sell high and buy some land outside town.
It's almost climbed to where it was 14 yrs ago. <--the face at the market, not you.


Actually my house (models like it) are going for about $250 now so a little higher than 14 yrs ago. Not even close to where it was 13 yrs ago tho. When I refied, the house appraised at $302. Should have sold then. Would have made almost $70k in less than 2 yrs.
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Old 09-20-2018, 08:02 AM   #28
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I appear to have had good luck with classic rustoleum with valspar hardener. No primer on the scuffed and cleaned original bus paint. I used rustoleum self etching primer in the spray can on the satin coat steel that was used to cover some windows and patch rust holes.

Eastcoastcb: man, it sure pains me to hear subaru went down the shitter.. My AWD legacy became a senior citizen this year. 20 years old and 400000km (250000 miles). I want to replace it with the exact same car, but of course that is no easy task! I looked at some of the newer ones, but I hate that they all went to an SUV or crossover style. I love me a good wagon!
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Old 09-20-2018, 08:56 AM   #29
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I appear to have had good luck with classic rustoleum with valspar hardener. No primer on the scuffed and cleaned original bus paint. I used rustoleum self etching primer in the spray can on the satin coat steel that was used to cover some windows and patch rust holes.
The bus is painted with Rustoleum without hardener. Still sticking. Looks like hell because I did a lousy job with masking and could have sprayed thicker but that was all me and not the paint.


I don't know what satin steel is. This is what mine looks like. Not the prettiest in the world but not too damn bad for sitting in the bus for a yr.



Quote:
Eastcoastcb: man, it sure pains me to hear subaru went down the shitter..
Good =<2012. Bad =>2013.
Attached Thumbnails
Sheet metal rust.jpg  
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Old 09-20-2018, 09:52 AM   #30
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I don't know what satin steel is. This is what mine looks like. Not the prettiest in the world but not too damn bad for sitting in the bus for a yr.
Satin coated steel is really nice stuff. It has some sort of zinc coating like galvanized steel, but unlike galvanized steel it is much easier to paint. The coating is dull and has a fine texture (satin). I installed my satin coated sheet steel several years ago and only just got around to putting a coat of paint on it. No rust. No sign of deterioration.
It's already roughed up so you can skip that initial step. Clean it, apply self-etching primer then paint.
It costs a bit more, but the preservation is worth it if (like me) you are slow to get around to those finishing tasks (such as painting).

I got 4x10 sheets of 18 gauge satin coat for ~$75 CAD each ($60 USD).

Quote:
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Good =<2012. Bad =>2013.
I could believe it. Though there were some stinker years in the early 2000s with the 2.5's leaking head gaskets. My ol' Suby has the 2.2l, which I understand is a good runner. Has been for me, anyhow! I've been keeping an eye out for a cheap, trashed car with a good engine to pull another 2.2l. Maybe I can get another 400000kms out of the ol' girl
20 MORE YEARS! 20 MORE YEARS!
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Old 09-20-2018, 10:09 AM   #31
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It costs a bit more, but the preservation is worth it if (like me) you are slow to get around to those finishing tasks (such as painting).
That's me.

Quote:
I got 4x10 sheets of 18 gauge satin coat for ~$75 CAD each ($60 USD).
I don't remember what it is that I paid. I've got 4x10 and 4x8. Both 18 gauge.

Quote:
I could believe it. Though there were some stinker years in the early 2000s with the 2.5's leaking head gaskets.
I think they are back to the leaky head gasket games. 13+ is definitely oil consumption issues.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:01 PM   #32
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Still looking for the best choice for primer.

I have found Rustolium Self Etching but only in rattle cans.

I found Rustolium Industrial Primer in gallons: https://www.zoro.com/rust-oleum-prim...02/i/G2255513/ but it is not self etching.

I found SEM Self Etching Primer in gallons: https://www.amazon.com/39681-Self-Et.../dp/B000K27IG2

Not very pleased with how the Rustolium rattle can primer that I have used so far. It is not sticking well.

Suggestions??

BTW: I plan on (mostly) spraying the finish.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:16 PM   #33
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My paint is starting to bubble now. Noticed just a couple of weeks ago. Only where the tarp is over the paint and trapping moisture. I guess it wouldn't make good paint for a steel walled sauna.
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:25 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNW_Steve View Post
Suggestions??

BTW: I plan on (mostly) spraying the finish.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1 ???


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...KIKX0DER&psc=1


What makes one a $100 a gallon when the other is $37 a gallon?
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Old 10-18-2018, 02:27 PM   #35
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Doesn't say self etching on this one...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OUIDDW..._t5_B000C018C2

or this one...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000C013P4..._t2_B000C018C2
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:03 PM   #36
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The links in my post are to a Rustolium product that is not self etching and an SEM product that is.
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:50 PM   #37
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Any input regarding the better option for primer?

I have spent the day sanding my new metal and need to get some primer on it soon.

Thoughts?
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Old 10-18-2018, 04:59 PM   #38
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My Dad built his own boat trailer in 1958 for his 16 ft Crosby out of a Ford pickup truck chassis and primed it with rustoleum rusty metal primer.....I junked it and the boat in the 90's and there was no rust on the trailer even though it wasn't top coated and used in salt water...they used to use fish oil in the primer which made it so durable...not sure if they still do, but it is all I use on metal
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Old 10-18-2018, 07:15 PM   #39
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Is this actually a primer or is it just primer color?

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...hoCNOcQAvD_BwE
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Old 10-19-2018, 06:46 AM   #40
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Quote:
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The links in my post are to a Rustolium product that is not self etching and an SEM product that is.
Sorry, I posted my two with your two in the form of a question. I believe mine were cheaper. The questions were 1) are they self etching (and how can you tell if it isn't in bold print on the label)? and 2) are they acceptable alternatives?
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