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Old 01-05-2015, 04:11 PM   #81
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Hahahaha!!!

Aaaaargh, matey!!!!
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Old 01-07-2015, 04:47 AM   #82
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So I got up on the top of the bus for the first time yesterday. Really wanted to see the condition of the seams & rivets and scope out rust areas.

Did a little cleaning & scrubbing, and also cleaned out the gutters. They were gunked up solid with mud, so I scraped all that out and rinsed them clean, saw that they alone were a project to be done, and also that the bus was, indeed, at one time a yellow skoolie! Apparently the Merced County Sheriffs dept bought her used & splashed her a new paint job.



So my next step seems to be to work on the exterior, then move to the interior. Basic rust search-and-destroy mission. My thought is to wire brush everything that's suspect, see how bad it is (so far nothing too bad), and then do the Por 15 treatment.



Thinking of doing that to every seal and rivet on the roof too, just because I can. Do it thorough the first time. Thinking of the clear Por 15, so that if I paint the bus a lighter color, it won't show like the black would.



Then for the actual paint job, acrylic enamel marine grade white to start with, mixed with some ceramic reflective junk to (hopefully) add a little cooler quality to the inner temperatures...



Any thoughts, tips, recommendations, tweaks to this process? I'm all ears
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:38 AM   #83
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Good start --- I can't comment on that brand of insulating ceramics you show but do have experience with the stuff from HyTech. It works better than you might imagine. Also, they sell a product I believe is called "Bus Kote" that is an elastomeric seaalant mixed with their ceramic beads made specifically for bus & RV roofs. Someone on this forum ran some controlled tests on it and posted the results.

Good luck on the build and keep the pix coming.
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Old 01-07-2015, 11:04 AM   #84
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You're making good progress, mine has slowed, the temps here have dropped and I can't use the Ospho that I bought to treat the interior floor (mine is metal). I'm going with the Hy-Tech beads as well but will have to wait for warmer weather to paint. Keep up the good work :0
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Old 01-07-2015, 07:33 PM   #85
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Hi all,

...to the "NASA"and "HiTec"-stuff....

I think there was a thread on here somewhere a few months ago - the fella was testing this out:

Specific paint - white, special reflective for roofs

a) mixed in sawdust

b) mixed in "NASA-HiTec"-stuff

c) painted TWICE with paint only

d) bare metal sheet for comparison


best was "2 coats of paint only"
second was sawdust
third "NASA-HiTec"-stuff

The sawdust was the cheapest solution, but was not considered bus-proof as there is no experience with sawdust in the paint (would it get moldy longterm? ...would the paint seal it in for good?)

TWO coats was cheaper than one coat and NASA-stuff....



...HERE we go:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/showth...?t=9291&page=4

...scroll down to post #34 - that's where the story gets interesting!!


Cheers,

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Old 01-07-2015, 07:58 PM   #86
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ROOF PAINT, ETC.:

Did some looking around after the HyTech suggestion (thanks!), and made a few choices.

To treat the ceiling & inner walls & frame, I bought a gallon each of the Por15 Cleaner/Degreaser, Metal Prep, and Por15 (in clear). I'll treat the exterior rust areas first, top to bottom, then coat the ceiling, interior walls & frame with the Por15.

I'm going to paint the roof & gutters in HyTech's 'Bus Kote' white. It sounds pretty thoroughly sealtastical when it's on, it's thick, and contains the ceramic beads already. I bought two gallons, so I'll apply 2 coats to the roof, and if there's any left over I can use it for the inside walls before I insulate & board them over.

After that's on, I'll splash a layer of their 'Flexi Clear' over the roof/gutters to seal it. Bought one gallon. Hopefully that will be more than enough.

I bought a gallon of the HyTech 'Barrier Kote,' which is advertised to act like a vapor barrier via the overlaying aluminum flakes in the paint. I'll use that on the ceiling & walls. After that, it's time to insulate & start throwing up the ceiling & side panels! (After the plumbing/electrical has been figured out, of course!)

INSULATION:

Fun topic & different for everyone it seems. Different R-Value needs, space to work with, budgets, etc.

At this point, I'm looking at steering away from the spray-in foams. I love the compactness & thoroughness in the application, getting into all the books & crannies...I just don't feel comfortable living in such a tiny space with the gases it MIGHT emit. It may...it may not...it really hasn't been around & been tested long enough to know what it does, good or bad.

So I'll be looking at hemp insulation. It comes in boards of different thicknesses, as well as loose filler you can stuff in the nooks & crannies. I like that it's natural, has been treated with only 100% natural ingredients, lasts forever & repels moisture. So, with some time to still do some research before it goes in, that's my leading choice! Has anyone had any experience with Hemp insulation before?



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Old 01-07-2015, 08:49 PM   #87
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Before you use hemp or any other "natural' fiber to insulate with be sure to read up on what the mfg has done to test the product for what you want to use it for. While it may have been tested for residential use I'd bet it hasn't been tested in the skoolie environment. Remember, all of our buses leak water or at least suffer from condensation. Wet hemp (as well as other natural fibers like lambs wool insulation) will support a fine growth of mold and fungus after they get moist. Also loose fibers will eventually settle and loose their insulating properties. Fibers to achieve their insulating properties need trapped air spaces. If you stuff fibers into spaces to "plug" them up, you will gain no insulating properties. Google "how thermal insulation works" and in a few minutes you will be a near expert--lots of good stuff there. Hope this helps. Jack
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:21 PM   #88
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FWIW the spray foam only emits toxic gases when sprayed on too thick. The couple inches in a bus would be no problem.
I'm going with a combination of styrofoam, foam board, and spray.
I may put rockwool in my forward wall just behind the cab but only that one interior wall.
The condensation makes me want to avoid anything natural as insulation.
I'd go full spray foam if I could afford it, but I'm on a budget big time.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:37 PM   #89
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Quote:
Originally Posted by thjakits View Post
I think there was a thread on here somewhere a few months ago - the fella was testing this out:...
Hey, that was me!

My findings were this: you can add any aggregate to paint and it will be rougher and thicker, thus will work better as a radiant barrier. It does next to nothing for actual insulation, though. Don't be fooled. When the sun is shining - sure - roughening the paint surface works. You can rough it with $$ hy-tech beads, or put two more coats of paint on with a long-nap roller. Or add some Corn Flakes.. Whatever.

I can't say anything about the actual Bus-Kote, but my guess is that it is similar to any of the other elastomeric paints. Many brands make the stuff. Hy-tech just adds their talcum powder to the mix.
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Old 01-07-2015, 09:59 PM   #90
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Quote:
Hy-tech just adds their talcum powder to the mix.

Hahahaha!! ....good one!


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