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Old 04-30-2017, 09:30 AM   #1
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Join Date: Feb 2017
Location: Arizona
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Year: 1996
Coachwork: Blue Bird
Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Raising Arizona

Well we took the plunge and started this crazy adventure. Bought a 96 Bluebird TC 2000 Cummings 5.9

Spent the weekend pulling seats and ripping up the floors. Boy the wood around the wheel wells were tough but we got through it. Little rust here and there but nothing a wire brush and coroseal can't solve.

I'm excited to join the community.



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Old 04-30-2017, 09:50 AM   #2
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Nice arizona busses that dont rust out in 20 years!!
-Christopher
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Old 04-30-2017, 09:55 AM   #3
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Also- check out Rust Reformer. I just read some scientific testing that showed it to be awesome stuff.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:06 PM   #4
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Yea that stuff looks good. Went out to local home Depot and they didn't carry the coroseal or the rust reformer so looks like it'll have to be ordered online

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Old 05-01-2017, 12:14 PM   #5
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Welcome -I'm jealous of your floors. My "Texas" bus didn't have any rust on the body or the underside frame, but boy, when I pulled up the floor, I had a surprise. Lots of rust to grind. Rust reformer is great stuff, but you still have to get down past the scale.
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Old 05-01-2017, 12:58 PM   #6
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Yea that stuff looks good. Went out to local home Depot and they didn't carry the coroseal or the rust reformer so looks like it'll have to be ordered online

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Just go to ace or another store and get a gallon of Ospho for $24.99.
Its amazing stuff. For the price difference over buying coroseal you can pick up a gallon of ospho AND a gallon of rustoleum.
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Old 05-14-2017, 11:06 AM   #7
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Well looked at Ace and they only had the little bottle of ospho so I bought some coroseal at Amazon instead. Applied it and let it cure. It looks good so it's on to paint.

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Old 05-14-2017, 12:11 PM   #8
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Ahhhhhh, the first level of bus zen achievement. A clean floor. Or is the first level getting the bus home? Or buying it?
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Old 05-14-2017, 12:55 PM   #9
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I'd say 1st level is a combo buying and getting it home. It felt great getting that done.

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Old 05-14-2017, 03:00 PM   #10
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Have you gone through your back peddling phase? There always seems to be a few days of regret after making a large purchase, especially with so much labor attached to it.

The thing is for the next one or two years you're driving back and forth to the home store to get building materials, and the damn thing doesn't die on the side of the road. About eighteen months later you're still dumping money into it and finally realize it's actually working out. Ok, maybe that fits me closer than it does you.
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Old 05-14-2017, 04:12 PM   #11
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Oh yea I had that moment when we were ripping out the seats and floors. That's when it hits you how much labor and time it's going to take. I figure it's like owning a home. You'll always find things to improve and fix and spend money and time on.

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Old 05-14-2017, 04:15 PM   #12
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Painting is done! Now to tackle the routing of the old floor seat heater hose.

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Old 05-14-2017, 11:43 PM   #13
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For the heater hose I saw that it already had a bracket under the front wheel well so I decided to use that. I created a U from 3/4 in pipe fittings. It look like it'll work. Now I need to find about 10 gallons of antifreeze.

Any suggestions on a place to pick up that much antifreeze at a good price?

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Old 05-25-2017, 12:05 PM   #14
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Well this Arizona heat is trying to slow us down. I had to install a small window A/C to get a little but of reprieve. But we got the floor holes patched and convinced the kids that it's cool to use an air hammer. Damn these rivets!

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Old 05-25-2017, 12:08 PM   #15
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im not sure id be comfortable with that hose U... rubber against rubber... seems like its asking to leak..
-Christopher
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Old 05-25-2017, 12:24 PM   #16
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Im not understanding the rubber on rubber part? The U portion is a metal pipe fitted inside the existing heater hose clamped down. I am kind of concerned with the pipe threads clamped down by the heater hose leaking so I applied some white pipe thread goop stuff that they sell in the plumbing dept at HD. I guess time will tell.
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Old 05-25-2017, 01:34 PM   #17
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That hose loop seems like it would work fine. It's the insulation on the hoses that are touching.

It's good you've got helpers. It does a lot for kids to be involved on a project like this.

You'll have stronger words for the rivets by time you're done.
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Old 06-02-2017, 08:38 AM   #18
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Quote:
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Yea that stuff looks good. Went out to local home Depot and they didn't carry the coroseal or the rust reformer so looks like it'll have to be ordered online

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Got my Rustoleum Rust Reformer at HD but it's in spray cans. I love the stuff. I've been using a lot of it.

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Old 06-02-2017, 02:20 PM   #19
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Not trying to be a downer but the spray cans aren't the same as the liquid converter stuff. I've not seen the jugs of liquid for sale anywhere but online.
The spray is ok stuff, for sure. I've used it on parts of my bus. But you have to do the same surface prep as you would without it. I top coated mine with appliance epoxy and its held up well in my 92's battery compartment. and tray.
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Old 06-02-2017, 03:47 PM   #20
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Year: 1996
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Chassis: TC 2000
Engine: 5.9 Cummins
Well the progress continues. I put down 1/2 inch insulation and 1/2 inch plywood I didn't like how the wood was bowed in the center and sides. So I found these low profile machine screws counter sunk them and bolted them in. I used a rubber washer and a lock nut to keep it water tight. Just to be sure I used some Rust-Oleum spray paint on the bolts under the chassis to make sure everything stays as rust free as possible. To keep the sides of the plywood down I used The left over pieces and cut floor trim. It holds down the sides so the corners are flush and it's solid. I finished it off by sealing all the cracks with some pl locktite.

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