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Old 09-04-2015, 08:43 PM   #21
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In talking with Hubby about this he commented that first off

In a boat the bladder gets vacuumed out eliminating any air in the bladder, not something that most likely will happen here.

He also said that there was no way he would even consider a used one....too many things that can go wrong. Degradation of the bladder. leaks & such mostly. No guarantee most likely in used bladders.

Also, you need to take into consideration that you still have to build a box to hold it in....you can't just suspend one under the bus like udders on a cow. The cost of a new tank & building a box would make it more expensive than buying a moulded tank.

There are soooooo many combinations, sizes, shapes of tanks that surely there would be one to accommodate your setup.

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Old 09-07-2015, 08:41 PM   #22
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What is everyone's opinion on how to remove the lower wall section? I have all the screws out but it looks like it lips over underneath the window. I was not planning on removing any windows and would prefer not to have to remove them.













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Old 09-07-2015, 08:53 PM   #23
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Just pull the windows.

Don't skin over windows. Pull everything you can. Every bit helps drop unneeded weight. Less weight = more speed and better fuel economy.

I don't like seeing people trying to take shortcuts.

Nat
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:11 PM   #24
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The windows are one of the main draws to the school bus design. We want to be able to have some amazing panoramic views.

I haven't looked at replacements for all of them yet because I have this sneaking suspicion that it will be way more than I would want to allocate for new windows. The plan is to combat the windows with spray foam insulation on the entire shell of the bus minus the floor. Still contemplating doing it though depends on what the final interior height would be.

As we are not doing a roof raise we are going to instead put a roof top deck on the back half and a custom 2'x3' skylight in the front that will add an additional 8" of height for the living space and the back will be strictly a sitting lounge and bedroom.
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Old 09-07-2015, 09:28 PM   #25
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The greatest thing about building your own Skoolie...is that you can make it any way you want! Rock on!
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Old 09-07-2015, 10:10 PM   #26
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr View Post
What is everyone's opinion on how to remove the lower wall section? I have all the screws out but it looks like it lips over underneath the window. I was not planning on removing any windows and would prefer not to have to remove them.













I had to shear off those panels right under the upper edge with a chisel on an air hammer. A cutoff would work too.
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Old 09-07-2015, 11:16 PM   #27
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If you like the windows, put them back in when your done.

If your grinding anywhere near them, they should have been removed or covered anyway to prevent damage.

IMO School bus windows suck in every way. No screens, they leak air and water, transmit cold and heat, ect.

If you want a panoramic view, you need to stand or sit in the front of my bus and have a look. The real home windows, combined with the 2 foot roof raise makes for a true panoramic view, with a full site of the sky.

That is something you just don't get with school bus windows and no roof raise.

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Old 09-08-2015, 03:35 PM   #28
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Exactly thanks Tango!

Thanks for the info EastCoastCB

Still looking into some alternatives but at the moment I'm looking at removing the windows and reinstalling them. Or I am going to shear off the wall.
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Old 09-08-2015, 03:42 PM   #29
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There are some pics in my thread "Roll your own".
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:03 PM   #30
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Just went back over your thread and that looks exactly what I might try tomorrow after I get the tools tonight or tomorrow morning.
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Old 09-08-2015, 04:09 PM   #31
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It will leave some jagged edges for sure but that's easy enough to take care of. If you're intending to use the windows again, I'd not go prying around underneath them too much. so shearing them right off would be a good way to go.
If you have a good size tank/decent compressor that can keep up it won't take you too long. All I had available was a 5gal $99 special. But it was free!
Lowes has a decent air hammer that's less than $30 and IIRC comes with a chisel bit as well.
HF is ok too but I hate depending on them. The other day I was trying to get the rear wheel off one of my scooters and my nearly new HF impact crapped out. Its maybe busted three or four nuts loose total in its life. Picked it up three months ago.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:38 PM   #32
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Hi my bus was the same, I just used my trusty angle grinder and cut them flush with the bottom edge of the window. Just go easy, you can basically peel it away from the wall as you cut which will let you know when you have cut through the sheet.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:11 PM   #33
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Thanks EastCoast and Neb will let you all know what I end up doing but its def going to be something along those lines.

Also finished up another video. This is of the work I got accomplished yesterday.

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Old 09-08-2015, 09:20 PM   #34
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Wow floor is beautiful, score is right!
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:40 PM   #35
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Thank you, ya I was pleasantly surprised when the plywood popped up and I saw the floor sparkle.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:58 PM   #36
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If your going to cut the metal, tin snips will also do the job.

Far cleaner, safer, less tool investment, ect.

You would be surprised what a good pair of tin snips will cut. I can even cut the interior skin steel.

For anyone that doesn't know, tin snips are color coded for angle of cut. Green are left hand, red are right hand, and yellow are strait cut.

Nat
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:59 PM   #37
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Personally I would not be wanting to have to take out the windows to remove the panel but if that turns out to be the easiest way there are advantages that you can take care of when doing so.

The biggie is that once you pull out the windows you can remove & add new sealer all the way around which will help with cold/hot air entering/leaving. They most likely will still leak but starting with new foam isn't a real bad idea.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:03 PM   #38
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Foam?

Windows are not, and should not be installed with foam.

Butyl rubber caulk would be the right product to use.

And I agree, windows should be pulled and resealed anyway.
Nat
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:33 AM   #39
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Nat, thanks for the tip on the tin snips! I think I am going to definetly going to try that first. Your absolutly right far less of an investmant and I wouldnt have to worry about grinding near the windows.

As far as the windows go Im still looking at replacements but am leaning towards removal and then reinstalation.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:34 PM   #40
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Your seats are primo... integrated seat belts AND integrated toddler seats! I was in a thread on this site with some other folks looking for just these kind of seats... I'll link your thread to it. (I'm wishing I had a bus right now so I could get them from you!)
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