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Old 09-08-2015, 04:09 PM   #31
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It will leave some jagged edges for sure but that's easy enough to take care of. If you're intending to use the windows again, I'd not go prying around underneath them too much. so shearing them right off would be a good way to go.
If you have a good size tank/decent compressor that can keep up it won't take you too long. All I had available was a 5gal $99 special. But it was free!
Lowes has a decent air hammer that's less than $30 and IIRC comes with a chisel bit as well.
HF is ok too but I hate depending on them. The other day I was trying to get the rear wheel off one of my scooters and my nearly new HF impact crapped out. Its maybe busted three or four nuts loose total in its life. Picked it up three months ago.
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Old 09-08-2015, 07:38 PM   #32
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Hi my bus was the same, I just used my trusty angle grinder and cut them flush with the bottom edge of the window. Just go easy, you can basically peel it away from the wall as you cut which will let you know when you have cut through the sheet.
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:11 PM   #33
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Thanks EastCoast and Neb will let you all know what I end up doing but its def going to be something along those lines.

Also finished up another video. This is of the work I got accomplished yesterday.

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Old 09-08-2015, 09:20 PM   #34
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Wow floor is beautiful, score is right!
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Old 09-08-2015, 09:40 PM   #35
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Thank you, ya I was pleasantly surprised when the plywood popped up and I saw the floor sparkle.
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:58 PM   #36
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If your going to cut the metal, tin snips will also do the job.

Far cleaner, safer, less tool investment, ect.

You would be surprised what a good pair of tin snips will cut. I can even cut the interior skin steel.

For anyone that doesn't know, tin snips are color coded for angle of cut. Green are left hand, red are right hand, and yellow are strait cut.

Nat
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Old 09-08-2015, 10:59 PM   #37
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Personally I would not be wanting to have to take out the windows to remove the panel but if that turns out to be the easiest way there are advantages that you can take care of when doing so.

The biggie is that once you pull out the windows you can remove & add new sealer all the way around which will help with cold/hot air entering/leaving. They most likely will still leak but starting with new foam isn't a real bad idea.
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Old 09-08-2015, 11:03 PM   #38
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Foam?

Windows are not, and should not be installed with foam.

Butyl rubber caulk would be the right product to use.

And I agree, windows should be pulled and resealed anyway.
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Old 09-09-2015, 09:33 AM   #39
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Nat, thanks for the tip on the tin snips! I think I am going to definetly going to try that first. Your absolutly right far less of an investmant and I wouldnt have to worry about grinding near the windows.

As far as the windows go Im still looking at replacements but am leaning towards removal and then reinstalation.
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Old 09-09-2015, 03:34 PM   #40
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Your seats are primo... integrated seat belts AND integrated toddler seats! I was in a thread on this site with some other folks looking for just these kind of seats... I'll link your thread to it. (I'm wishing I had a bus right now so I could get them from you!)
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