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03-25-2016, 10:14 PM
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#101
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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interior wall studs
livinthelife NP
So I got my inteior wall studs up. Made a video on how I did it. I think they came out great.
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03-26-2016, 06:24 AM
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#102
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Fort Riley, Kansas
Posts: 42
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What will be the purpose of the studs under the sills there?
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03-26-2016, 07:30 AM
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#103
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 403
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
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Just curious, you still have that lower lip protruding out from where the seats were bolted to. When you butt cabinets up against the wall that lip will create a gap and keep your cabinet from being flush with the studs you put in. Are you going to remove the lower seat lip?
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03-26-2016, 08:33 AM
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#104
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyChap
What will be the purpose of the studs under the sills there?
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To attach the walls, couch, cabinets, etc..
Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD
Are you going to remove the lower seat lip?
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No I am not going to remove the chair rail. There is a pic somewhere on here about how the chair rail helps the integrity of the bus. (Searched for it but not able to locate it easily)
I am going to just cut out a section on the back of the cabinets, so that it will sit flush. Everything else will be able to be built around it as well.
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03-26-2016, 08:58 AM
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#105
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: Houston, Tx.
Posts: 403
Year: 1999
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 84
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr
I am going to just cut out a section on the back of the cabinets, so that it will sit flush. Everything else will be able to be built around it as well.
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Yeah, I've also read where that rail is an integral part of the bus, hence why I was asking . Good idea about notching out the back of the cabinets to accommodate the rail. Really enjoy watching your progress. Keep up the great work !
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03-26-2016, 09:03 AM
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#106
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FlyboyHPD
Yeah, I've also read where that rail is an integral part of the bus, hence why I was asking . Good idea about notching out the back of the cabinets to accommodate the rail. Really enjoy watching your progress. Keep up the great work !
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Ya it is coming along quite nicely. Hoping to get the skylight, fan, and cover up second emergency exit this up coming weekend. (Tues&Wed are my Sat&Sun)
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03-26-2016, 09:20 AM
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#107
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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True...the "chair rail" is indeed a structural element on most bus bodies and must not be chopped out. Be sure to consult your manufacturer before whacking away at any steel.
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03-26-2016, 09:27 AM
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#108
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Oh man. I'm not laughing at you brother I'm laughing with you. Been down that road many times many more to come I'm sure. If I could just see the future I could avoid it.
I found the kreg jig about 1yr ago. Mine isKreg R3 Pocket Hole System. By far one of the best tools I ever bought.
Tip / suggestions if I may. Saw horses are a back saver. You can buy the brackets and use scrap wood cheaper than buying any saw horse. Also I suggest a clamp for the kreg. It will help be on mark more accurate its safer.... I can see you slipping and drilling a hole in your leg or something. Saw horses and using clamp down will help on your back. Won't be going up and down all the time. Oh ya it will save on your back too if I didn't say that before. you might have the stuff i dont know just my 2 cents. anyway still doing a great job always look forward to the
updates.
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03-26-2016, 09:38 AM
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#109
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Keep the rail for sure.
IDK, Tango... I'd imagine the manufacturers are pretty much bound to give CYA type answers.
If anyone ever asked ford if it was ok to modify an old model A, or whatever, they'd inevitably say no.
I hope you understand I'm not trying to start an argument or anything. I always value your input and think you're one of the GREAT forum members.
It just seems to me that if we go to asking the manufacturers what is ok, we'd all end up in tin cans with emergency buzzers everywhere and hideous smelling interiors full of moldy growth.
I already know what International/AmTran will say if I ask them about raising my roof. But I NEED more headroom.
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03-26-2016, 09:58 AM
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#110
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinthelife
Oh man. I'm not laughing at you brother I'm laughing with you. Been down that road many times many more to come I'm sure. If I could just see the future I could avoid it.
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Ya after it happened I was just like great.... HAHA no worries. It sure looks funny in the video though.
Ya I was thinking about building a saw horse and will probably do so in the future. On the other side I just sat down most of the time and scooched along the floor. Making that video tonight after work.
Ya the chair rail def will be staying. Does anyone know where that diagram is that shows the breakdown?
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03-26-2016, 01:06 PM
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#111
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Fort Riley, Kansas
Posts: 42
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[QUOTE=Josiahdr;140544]To attach the walls, couch, cabinets, etc..
I'm not armchair quarterbacking your build, just trying to wrap my head around how I might do it... because my skoolie is only a figment of my imagination right now.
I would want to avoid using wood structure inside of an exterior wall, especially under a window... I'm too concerned about leaks and rot and mold. Couldn't you attach stuff directly to the metal framing of the bus and to the chair rail? Or is there not enough material to grab onto there?
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03-26-2016, 01:09 PM
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#112
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Fort Riley, Kansas
Posts: 42
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http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f13/ch...emma-9225.html
I think that's the diagram you're looking for. Definitely one of the most helpful diagrams on this whole site!
Sometimes it's easier to search via Google than via the Skoolie menu. In your Google search bar type: "site:skoolie.net" then follow it with your search terms.
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03-26-2016, 02:49 PM
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#113
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyChap
I would want to avoid using wood structure inside of an exterior wall, especially under a window... I'm too concerned about leaks and rot and mold. Couldn't you attach stuff directly to the metal framing of the bus and to the chair rail? Or is there not enough material to grab onto there?
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I am not worried about it at all. I removed all of the windows and reinstalled them and they are 100% leak proof. I have videos on that as well. I highly recommend doing so as that way you can seal up the windows properly.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ArmyChap
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Yup that is the one.
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03-26-2016, 09:26 PM
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#114
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Josiahdr
Ya after it happened I was just like great.... HAHA no worries. It sure looks funny in the video though.
Ya I was thinking about building a saw horse and will probably do so in the future. On the other side I just sat down most of the time and scooched along the floor.
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By the way I wasn't trying to nag or anything. I have hurt my back I don't know how many times. Labor jobs in the younger years. Just a pet peeve I guess.
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03-27-2016, 08:10 AM
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#115
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinthelife
By the way I wasn't trying to nag or anything. I have hurt my back I don't know how many times. Labor jobs in the younger years. Just a pet peeve I guess.
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I got you no worries. Didn't take it personal at all.
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03-27-2016, 08:31 AM
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#116
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livinthelife
By the way I wasn't trying to nag or anything. I have hurt my back I don't know how many times. Labor jobs in the younger years. Just a pet peeve I guess.
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I hurt my back helping a friend move a fridge yesterday.
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03-27-2016, 12:08 PM
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#117
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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"No good deed goes unpunished."
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03-27-2016, 05:21 PM
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#118
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
"No good deed goes unpunished."
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True words, friend.
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03-27-2016, 05:58 PM
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#119
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: Chicago
Posts: 260
Year: 2003
Coachwork: Thomas
Engine: Cat 3126e
Rated Cap: 28
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Thats the truth!
Got part 2 completed. I think that they will work out great. I am pretty pleased with myself.
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03-27-2016, 07:18 PM
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#120
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Skoolie
Join Date: Apr 2015
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 237
Year: 2002
Chassis: international
Engine: T444E
Rated Cap: 71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB
I hurt my back helping a friend move a fridge yesterday.
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UMMM... I agree
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