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Old 03-27-2016, 07:24 PM   #121
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Thats the truth!

Got part 2 completed. I think that they will work out great. I am pretty pleased with myself.

You showed that 2x4 whos boss. Good job on the bus. Are you only going across with the 2x4s or will you put a stud in the middle of the metal studs?

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Old 03-27-2016, 08:08 PM   #122
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You showed that 2x4 whos boss. Good job on the bus. Are you only going across with the 2x4s or will you put a stud in the middle of the metal studs?

Thanks!

Going to put vertical studs in for the cabinets,bathroom wall, & couch.
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Old 04-01-2016, 09:53 PM   #123
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Had an unexpected family emergency the past few days, but everything is looking up at the moment. Just got a chance to finish this video.

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Old 04-02-2016, 08:40 PM   #124
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Some bus info at the end & I got the schematics from Thomas will be posting them soon.
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Old 04-08-2016, 08:11 PM   #125
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Puting gym flooring in the school bus.

It should look pretty cool when done.

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Old 04-09-2016, 11:04 AM   #126
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Gym flooring is going to look fantastic in your bus! Very creative idea... I can't wait to see how it turns out!
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Old 04-09-2016, 11:09 AM   #127
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I've been thinking about the floating floor concept. I think it's definitely the way to go to minimize holes (aka leak points!) in the structure of the bus. Here's the rub: How will you secure furniture without puncturing the floor? I'm not an expert by any means, but I would think that seats and cabinets would need to be secured to more than just the chair rail and wall structure to keep them from flying loose in the event of a crash. If you've thought this through I'd love to learn how you resolved it... Can't get my own mind around this one.


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Old 04-09-2016, 12:37 PM   #128
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The floating floor concept is really the way to go. Securing anything to it should not be a problem if you put down 1/2" or 3/4" plywood down over your solid foam insulation. Then just secure your items through the final finish flooring and into the plywood. Obviously when you screw into the flooring you'll want to do it where it cannot be seen as inside the cabinets or in the very back if you have to do it on the outside.
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Old 04-09-2016, 01:52 PM   #129
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A floating floor is nice in a house, and it makes sense there. In a vehicle that can roll over everything needs to be fastened down IMO. Even things you think are fastened down securely can break loose. In a roll over everything loose inside the bus becomes a washing machine of death. I wouldn't want that to be even more complicated with laminate or wood flooring floating around. I know it's a worst case scenario, but we should be prepared for the worst.
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Old 04-09-2016, 03:16 PM   #130
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I agree with you somewhat Robin, flying appliances and cabinets in a rollover would not be not be good in any scenario. However, if you happen to be in a bad enough situation to roll the bus your chances of living through it have decreased significantly anyway.

I'm going with the floating floor in mine and taking my chances by driving very prudently and remembering I'm in charge of 36,000 rolling pounds within my ability to control. Therefore going 60 mph is plenty fast for me as I'll be in no hurry to get anywhere.

That will allow me to not put screws down into the metal floor and allow numerous access points for moisture to wick it's way up into my bus.

Besides, unless you have something very heavy sitting in the middle of the floor, which is highly unlikely since it's in the path of the very small walkway of a bus interior, there is no reason why items up against the walls cannot be bolted to the walls and secured that way.
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Old 04-09-2016, 04:28 PM   #131
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Yes we all try to drive prudently, but sometimes unexpected things happen.
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Old 04-09-2016, 09:31 PM   #132
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I agree with HPD and am not too worried about securing the floor. In the event of a roll over all bets are off! There is no telling what will break loose and which way it will go flying even with a secure floor. My bus build only exists in my head but it does have a floating floor and if I wanted to secure it in the event of a roll over it would not be difficult I don't think.
My build thought was to run 2X4's or 2x2's horizontally the length of the bus on the walls and the roof spacing them around two feet apart. They would be attached on the outside of the buses ribs that way i would have a little less then 2 inches of extra insulation beyond the buses ribs. My floating floor would be framed with 2X4's and have 2X4's running down the center isle for cabinets and walls to be secured to (With a few slight variation to accommodate my floor plan of course). The simplest way to secure the floor in the event of a roll over would be to run 2X2's or 2X4's vertically between the bottom wall horizontal down to the floor.
Every build is different but I'm sure anyone who wants the extra safety of securing the floor could do something similar.
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Old 04-09-2016, 10:53 PM   #133
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I'd say these buses are pretty safe, and yeah in the case of a roll over a little loose flooring would be pretty light compared to the fridge. With a few walls on top of your floor I don't think it's floating anymore.
Not to worry, it sounds like you're plenty safe.
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:20 AM   #134
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I'd say these buses are pretty safe, and yeah in the case of a roll over a little loose flooring would be pretty light compared to the fridge. With a few walls on top of your floor I don't think it's floating anymore.
Not to worry, it sounds like you're plenty safe.
:

i run floating floor as well. i used reflectix as padding for added R factor. Once all your interior framing is done the floor is no longer floating, it is secured all over the place from floor to ceiling framing. no way for floor to fly around. and all appliances should be secured with strapping while rolling anyway. I will be installing boat tie off cleats to use for our fridge while we moving.
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:39 AM   #135
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Gym flooring is going to look fantastic in your bus! Very creative idea... I can't wait to see how it turns out!
It should look pretty sweet, will def keep you updated.

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The floating floor concept is really the way to go. Securing anything to it should not be a problem if you put down 1/2" or 3/4" plywood down over your solid foam insulation.
I couldn't agree more! I used 3/4" and have the (studs) sleepers on the sides and some in the middle to screw down onto as well.

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In a vehicle that can roll over everything needs to be fastened down IMO. Even things you think are fastened down securely can break loose.
The floor its self won't be able to come out due to the chair rail being right above it. It could potentionaly only move about 6"ish if everything did break off.

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However, if you happen to be in a bad enough situation to roll the bus your chances of living through it have decreased significantly anyway. x2

I'm going with the floating floor in mine and taking my chances by driving very prudently and remembering I'm in charge of 36,000 rolling pounds within my ability to control. Therefore going 60 mph is plenty fast for me as I'll be in no hurry to get anywhere. x2

there is no reason why items up against the walls cannot be bolted to the walls and secured that way.
Ya I think that securing to the wall and floor in multiple spots along with being mindful when driving there will be no issues. Freak accidents do happen but other than that its in your control, just like you said.

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I will be installing boat tie off cleats to use for our fridge while we moving.
That's a great idea! I have been looking at a few things, but that is perfect!
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Old 04-10-2016, 09:52 AM   #136
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While on the subject of floor strategies...

I have been considering using tool box type rubber mesh beneath my plywood (no room for insulation, trust me). It is open, breathes, is mold and fungus proof (according to the mfg'r) and should provide a bit of thermal break as well as some sound insulation.

Can anyone think of a reason not to go this route?
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:01 AM   #137
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Not at all. Should work well.
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Old 04-10-2016, 10:38 AM   #138
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Sounds like a good plan Tango .
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:05 PM   #139
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I would float the floor on top of the rubber tool-box coating and then make sure anything else is strapped to the WALL SUPPORTS.. if you flip the bus anything strapped to a secured floor is likely to break loose anyway as the frame rails flex.. if you run Bolts and BIG washers.. up through the bottom of your floating floor before you install it and then mount your cabinets / sppliances, etc to your floating floor and to the walls, you have a fighting chance that things will flex together and not break completely onto their own..

ie the floor stays together even though it may bow and pull away from the main bus floor when the frame twists.. things will come away from the walls too however not as likely to break completely free as they flex with the detached floor as a unit...

not everything will come apart in a crash.. the most likely crash ends up with your bus on its side... ..

I learned recently of 2 acquaintences of mine that were run off I-95 in florida by a Semi driver who dozed off.. their commercial RV(some kind of LARGE fleetwood) went in the median and landed on its side.. they werent hurt and only one cabinet inside even opened up...(all of their cabinets had aviation style safety latches.. lots of things twisted and windows broke but no large objects went flying.. the RV looked pretty twisted.. I didnt see much of the inside so I dont know how it was constructed.. but the fact is you can build your Bus to stay together even in a pretty severe crash...

im of the mind that things allowed to flex are less likely to Break loose.. and on a more normal thought.. less likely to vibrate or rattle..

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Old 04-22-2016, 10:39 PM   #140
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Just an update as far as the bus being dead. Getting it towed to a shop to get back up and running. Got a good deal for the tow though.

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