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Old 09-13-2015, 09:32 AM   #21
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I worked in a steel fabrication shop for more than a decade and this is something one learns quickly!
Keep up the good work, yall. You got a great bus there.
I guess Thomas glues the rubber down.
Mine was only held down by the aluminum trim strips.

Got some Ospho?

Yes the glue down sections ( which was most of it) was extemely hard to remove, probally the hardest part so far. It was an intense 2-4 hours of us swithing back and forth on with the floor scraper. I think I lost 8+ lbs that day in water, and of coarse it was a hot humid day.

I thought i broke my hand, when using the scraper; as i put all my weight behind it and the thing hit a bolt and stopped.

Got a gallon, wanted to get another one; but they only had one in stock. Will get it later. I will need it to treat my panel skins.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:40 AM   #22
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A gallon goes pretty far. I'm super cheap, so on areas that have extremely light rust I use a slightly diluted mix with some distilled water. Maybe 20-30%. The heavier rust gets undiluted ospho.
I highly recommend using an old windex type spray bottle witht he ospho. It helps get the stuff working better spraying it.
I know that feeling of thinking your hand is broke! I spent last summer using a similar tool to remove tiles and flooring in a temporary job I had with a floor guy. My hands and arms felt horrible for a while.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:45 AM   #23
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The wife first time using a electric sheers, again a HF unit. she loved the curly waste. we used it to remove the side wall panels. We will go back and use a grinder to finish the job at a later date. We could not figure out how to get panels out from under the windows. Seems like they put them in first then put the exterior panels over them. Makes a good window pan though.
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:48 AM   #24
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
A gallon goes pretty far. I'm super cheap, so on areas that have extremely light rust I use a slightly diluted mix with some distilled water. Maybe 20-30%. The heavier rust gets undiluted ospho.
I highly recommend using an old windex type spray bottle witht he ospho. It helps get the stuff working better spraying it.
I know that feeling of thinking your hand is broke! I spent last summer using a similar tool to remove tiles and flooring in a temporary job I had with a floor guy. My hands and arms felt horrible for a while.

I had it left over removing linoleum from my house a couple of years ago, around 500-600 sq feet. It sucked then too, but works great just need a little elbo grease.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:00 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
A gallon goes pretty far. I'm super cheap, so on areas that have extremely light rust I use a slightly diluted mix with some distilled water. Maybe 20-30%. The heavier rust gets undiluted ospho.
I highly recommend using an old windex type spray bottle witht he ospho. It helps get the stuff working better spraying it.
I know that feeling of thinking your hand is broke! I spent last summer using a similar tool to remove tiles and flooring in a temporary job I had with a floor guy. My hands and arms felt horrible for a while.
We are planning on using a sprayer for it the pump type. I am putting this off until I can find a water supply close by (safety). The place we are converting it at does not have running water. The neighbor will most likely let us run a hose. Acid and skin do not mix well, and I know that first hand. Had a bottle of Oleum 124 % break on me at work, I got real lucky and had two small burns on my arms, but my jeans were gone. I flooded out the lab in the emergency shower. I did make a couple of bucks for that one, stripping down in less than minute; after I was alright, coworkers were throwing dollar bill for stripping, LOL. Something like this usually does not end so well, so it was in good spirit. I learned my lesson, aprons, sleeves, and full face pieces.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:09 AM   #26
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Yeah I don't at all like acids or chemicals.
I'm lucky, my bus is currently parked right next to a well. But with ospho, the only water I've needed is simply to wash my hands off. I'm less scared of it than other chemicals though. Its not so strong that it burns the skin, at least not to quickly. I do always wear my face shield when spraying it though.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:19 AM   #27
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My 9-5 has me working with all sort of chemicals, and I have done some crazy experiments in my career. I have the upmost respect for the stuff. 12 years as a chemist, to pay for school i have worked a couple of years in sheet metal roofing fab. and 5-6 years as an electrician. I am currently working with energetic materials (explosives) lol. I still have ten toes and ten finger. Man one of these days I should get safe job.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:25 AM   #28
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You sound like me, only smarter!
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:37 AM   #29
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Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
You sound like me, only smarter!

Thanks, but not smarter; just a different set of knowledge.

I try to learn as much as possible and think i have a good skill set.
I guess I will be adding welding and painting to the mix soon.
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Old 09-13-2015, 10:41 AM   #30
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Welding is a GREAT skill to learn.
Painting too. I'm really glad I finally broke down and bought an automotive type spray gun. Saving a ton on cans of rustoleum.
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Old 09-13-2015, 01:02 PM   #31
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I use hand pump weed sprayers that make a fine mist for spraying rust converter chemicals.

Spray in the evening when it's cooling off outside to prevent the chemical from drying too fast. The longer it stays wet, the better it works.

Nat
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Old 09-13-2015, 04:15 PM   #32
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^very good advice. I don't even think of spraying or applying any in the heat of the day. Gets REALLY hot here!
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:01 PM   #33
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View from the back looking out the rear emergancy exit, now were going to figure how to put a screen in it at a later date. Anyone done something like that? Oh well it was a nice break for a moment or two. I think it would be very nice to pop that back window open when camping, our bed will be back there
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Old 09-13-2015, 09:09 PM   #34
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That a diesel generator? Whats it rated at?
I'm about to the point of buying one myself.

Yes it a 7500 watts diesel, i think they are rated for 10k hours +. It is only a 120 x 120 volt. Two legs but in phase, so no 240 volts output of the unit. It is nice and quiet, and we will insulate the compartment to reduce the noise even further. I will have to check to see if we can put a second muffler on it. I want it very quiet. New they run 8-10K, used around 3-4K. Nice unit from what I researched. And it fits between the front rails of the bus. if there was not a front crossmember there, I would have rigged up a slide to come out the front to work on it if needed.
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Old 09-14-2015, 05:37 AM   #35
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Sorry, but I can't see your pics......
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Old 09-14-2015, 02:58 PM   #36
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Sorry, but I can't see your pics......
The last post with pics did not load correctly and it was late (for me at least), but the others seem to work correctly and I am on a different computer from the one I posted with. I added the Pics as attachments, is this the correct way to do it?
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Old 09-14-2015, 03:05 PM   #37
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The last post with pics did not load correctly and it was late (for me at least), but the others seem to work correctly and I am on a different computer from the one I posted with. I added the Pics as attachments, is this the correct way to do it?
There is no correct way....

However, this site has massive issues with being reliable.

Photo Bucket on the other hand is almost flawless at hosting and showing pics.

This is why I keep telling people not to host pics here. It's just not reliable.

Nat
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:21 PM   #38
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Took down the roof panels, only around 15 screws stripped out, drilled them and used the trusty hammer and chisel to remove. used a long chisel to remove from the side, they "popped" right out.

We plan on reusing the roof panels, after dropping the roof an 1'' for spray in insulation and covering in Luann. The panels supposedly help reduce sound, do not know how it will work butted up to Luann under it.
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:36 PM   #39
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grinding the backs off the rivets above the rain-guard in preparation for the skinning over the windows. we then used a punch and the hammer to knock the rivets out through the front.



We got a deal on 10ft x 3ft Galvanized 18 gauge sheet metal, to skin over the windows. Good thing is little waste with this size.
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Old 09-16-2015, 06:48 PM   #40
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First panel put on, it was the smallest, and we started from the back and work towards front to have the panel overlap correct. It took us a while to get this panel up and figure everything out. I left the panel a little too long, right above the rub rails; and cut it down some for a better fit.

Used some solar seal 900 between the panel and the posts for a waterproof seal. I used to use this when I did metal roofing, owner swore by it and he is one the most recommended metal roofer in our area with 40+ years in business.
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