Roof raise amtran

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by o1marc

If I'm not mistaken those tools require you be riveting edges that can be accessed from both sides with both hands,useless when putting rivets in the field of the piece.

They can be used anywhere there are solid rivets on a bus currently. Some rivets on buses are pop rivets because there's no way to use a solid one.
MuddaEarth uses solid rivets if you haven't seen his vids you should check them out. His girlfriend helps him with the bucking bar.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

They can be used anywhere there are solid rivets on a bus currently. Some rivets on buses are pop rivets because there's no way to use a solid one.
MuddaEarth uses solid rivets if you haven't seen his vids you should check them out. His girlfriend helps him with the bucking bar.

Yes, as long as 2 people are working it. You can not remove one of these rivets and use that tool to replace it by yourself, unless you are Stretch Armstrong

[BusT]

Originally Posted by o1marc

I replaced every rivet I took out with an appropriate sized screw, way easier and quicker than anything else.

The more I started looking into it I’ll just go with hot rolled. Or mild stew. Or if there the same thing then whatever .

Does the hot rolled take paint good if primered ?
Maybe with a self etching primer?
I want to go cheap but initially input more then excepted down on the bus itself so I want to be frugal but now I feel as if I need to just do everything right.
I have access to tek screw self tapping and rivets but manufacture used buck rivets so I’ll have to get another hand with those .

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by BusT

The more I started looking into it I’ll just go with hot rolled. Or mild stew. Or if there the same thing then whatever .

Does the hot rolled take paint good if primered ?
Maybe with a self etching primer?
I want to go cheap but initially input more then excepted down on the bus itself so I want to be frugal but now I feel as if I need to just do everything right.
I have access to tek screw self tapping and rivets but manufacture used buck rivets so I’ll have to get another hand with those .

They are all fasteners that do the same job for our application. If I was building a show bus it would be different. My body is getting old, anywhere I can cut physical labor and still get the job done, I'm all for. Once everything is painted no one is going to be looking at what's on the head.

[BusT]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

They can be used anywhere there are solid rivets on a bus currently. Some rivets on buses are pop rivets because there's no way to use a solid one.
MuddaEarth uses solid rivets if you haven't seen his vids you should check them out. His girlfriend helps him with the bucking bar.

Yeah went back through the transcendence vids last night.
Dude is great.
I saw him using the air riveted. Or is it air hammer .with that chuck head specifically for the bell / dome shaped heads.
I saw that link you put and am still wondering if I can find a cheaper solution .
255$ for some Clekos the gun and some heads. I guess I could always resell if needed.
The 3x guns go up to 1/4?
I’m guessing I’ll end up needing to do 3/16 solid rivets.

[Sleddgracer]

Originally Posted by o1marc

They are all fasteners that do the same job for our application. If I was building a show bus it would be different. My body is getting old, anywhere I can cut physical labor and still get the job done, I'm all for. Once everything is painted no one is going to be looking at what's on the head.

the only thing I can see that might be a problem with using screws has nothing to do with them not being secure fasteners - the problem comes when the paint goes on the bus - the indentation in the head of the screw, whether they be Robertson or Phillips, or Torques, is that they are harder to get paint into the hole - when spray painting, an even coat is important, but extra attention has to be paid to the small holes, creating potential runs in the paint job - using rivets would virtually eliminate that problem

[Frogpondfoug]

This ones ok Kijiji for 5000 Canadian

[BusT]

Should I go from the windshield rib to the behind entry door rob or the one between the 2
.....
The 1st to 2nd peice of tape?

It would be a steeper transition . I wouldn’t be cutting near the 1st roof panel lap with all these rivets go through the roof to the hat channel.
Maybe more areodynamic???
Really not too sure...
as of now I have a peice of hat channel cut for the rib extensions .
Still need to gut near the drivers area a little more ....
That front inside cap is not coming off easy....
I think I have almost enough play to not have to extend the wiring harness 3 feet....

I’m thinking ...
Paint grip sheets 16g or electrogalv
I think 8 sheets should be plenty ... 30ft bus I might be over estimating ....
For rivets still haven’t found the size or grip .... need to order solid and pop... some oversized because a couple holes got kinda big .... maybe 150 - 200 rivets altogether....
some
Hat channel extensions might be 42 inches
I need 20
Maybe 70 to
Some pictures got rotated ....
Any opinions would be appreciated .

[EastCoastCB]

How much raise you wanting?

[BusT]

About 22-24 inches... enough for a full sheet ... if that’s too much I’ll buy some shears....
Tango said 16g is pretty close to oem.
Some people go 18g
I’d rather have something thicker and not worry about oil canning ... for the transition maybe 20 or 18g?

[BusT]

How Dorian treating you?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BusT

About 22-24 inches... enough for a full sheet ... if that’s too much I’ll buy some shears....
Tango said 16g is pretty close to oem.
Some people go 18g
I’d rather have something thicker and not worry about oil canning ... for the transition maybe 20 or 18g?

My bus is made of 18ga. 16 would be super heavy.

[BusT]

So 18 g cold rolled is cheaper then 16g
I’m thinking 16 for the sides panels and 18 for the transition.
30ft bus 60ft of 16g
10ft for transition
Also ordering hat channels from Colorado coachworks . With there c channel inserts ....
500$
+ about 600...
1100 roof raise materials not including vhb tape or rivets ..... or welding wire / miscellaneous tools I’ve yet to think of...
I wanted to go with 18 but after talking to some people about how the hat channel is 14 and the skins getting riveted on the side of it kind of box it in to behave more or less like square tubing 16g seemed to be closer to oem specs....
In total the roof raise might add about 600 or 700 pounds .... hat channels .... extensions ,
Sheets,,, will be getting cut and replaced with some rv windows though too....
All in all . I think with lots of chairs removed , and skins. I won’t be too heavy for handeling .... i do plan on making a ballast with batteries and water etc... right between the axels .... and an engien countwr balance with my dirt bike being on the back..

Also

[EastCoastCB]

16 is way overkill for skinning a bus.

[BusT]

It’s 20 pounds heavier per 4x10 sheet then 18g
Only 20$ more per sheet?
And it’s closer to factory standards.
And even then it’s only about 120 more pounds then if I used 18g.....
and I’m cutting holes for windows..
I’m not worried about it man.
But then again . You brought up a good point about height . I also think I’m not raising the roof more then 20in probalay about 18 or maybe even 16

[BusT]

That was just a quote also... I think I will be going that route as it’s closer to factory but I could change my mind. What was your raise 18 in?
Also your factory skin gauge ?

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BusT

It’s 20 pounds heavier per 4x10 sheet then 18g
Only 20$ more per sheet?
And it’s closer to factory standards.
And even then it’s only about 120 more pounds then if I used 18g.....
and I’m cutting holes for windows..
I’m not worried about it man.
But then again . You brought up a good point about height . I also think I’m not raising the roof more then 20in probalay about 18 or maybe even 16

Not the weight. The extra work cutting and drilling.
Its a lot easier to work with 18.

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by BusT

That was just a quote also... I think I will be going that route as it’s closer to factory but I could change my mind. What was your raise 18 in?
Also your factory skin gauge ?

10 inch raise. 14ga ribs, 18ga skins.

[ewo1]

Originally Posted by BusT

Should I go from the windshield rib to the behind entry door rob or the one between the 2
.....
The 1st to 2nd peice of tape?

It would be a steeper transition . I wouldn’t be cutting near the 1st roof panel lap with all these rivets go through the roof to the hat channel.
Maybe more areodynamic???
Really not too sure...
as of now I have a peice of hat channel cut for the rib extensions .
Still need to gut near the drivers area a little more ....
That front inside cap is not coming off easy....
I think I have almost enough play to not have to extend the wiring harness 3 feet....

I’m thinking ...
Paint grip sheets 16g or electrogalv
I think 8 sheets should be plenty ... 30ft bus I might be over estimating ....
For rivets still haven’t found the size or grip .... need to order solid and pop... some oversized because a couple holes got kinda big .... maybe 150 - 200 rivets altogether....
some
Hat channel extensions might be 42 inches
I need 20
Maybe 70 to
Some pictures got rotated ....
Any opinions would be appreciated .

I'm glad you asked this question.
I too and asking myself the same thing, where to make my cuts!

I was thinking of going a full 24 inches. I don not care for cutting at the third rib, or at the rear of the first side windows, don't care for the humpback whale look.

I'll be using 1-1/4, 14 gauge steel tubing cut at 36 inches each, staggering the post cuts one high and one low, alternating. That should leave me with 6 inch overlap top and bottom of each post. Should hold up fine, structurally, if I alternate the cuts on each window.

What's holding me up is deciding on the transition!

As far as cost, 6 pieces of 1-1/4 x 14 ga (24' length each), spent $162 so far.

I'll by the angle iron next after the roof is raised.

[BusT]

Originally Posted by ewo1

I'm glad you asked this question.
I too and asking myself the same thing, where to make my cuts!

I was thinking of going a full 24 inches. I don not care for cutting at the third rib, or at the rear of the first side windows, don't care for the humpback whale look.

I'll be using 1-1/4, 14 gauge steel tubing cut at 36 inches each, staggering the post cuts one high and one low, alternating. That should leave me with 6 inch overlap top and bottom of each post. Should hold up fine, structurally, if I alternate the cuts on each window.

What's holding me up is deciding on the transition!

As far as cost, 6 pieces of 1-1/4 x 14 ga (24' length each), spent $162 so far.

I'll by the angle iron next after the roof is raised.

I think I’m going to go from the windshield to the 1st over head rib about 19 inches from the windshield rib....
Cut there and have a steep front transition angle
Or go from the 1st rib at the windshield and back to the third rib just behind the front door .
46 inches from the windshield rib and have a steeper front transition slope .

I know what you mean about the hump back whale look.
Also I think there were some common motor homes using that style as well which is why that was done in the 1st place.

I’m stuck on figuring out the cut in the front for the look of how I want my angle ... and also the cuts in the back to have two barn door style doors in the rear ... so I can have this look