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Old 09-24-2019, 12:33 PM   #81
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 7,841
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
I'd want to do this on level ground so gravity doesn't want to slide the roof, like one guy had happen here on his raise.
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:24 PM   #82
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Jan 2019
Location: Houston
Posts: 130
Year: 2003
Engine: Dt466e
Rated Cap: 30,000
Would it be safe to cut this middle rib and necessary surrounding structure out?
Itís just weird . Iíve never seen another YouTube roof raise done weíre theres a rib between the door and windshield usually there just one at the entry door and one right behind the windshield ? The spacing comes up short also ... Iím also seeing how most people use a cutting wheel to cut the roof panel along the hat channel. Or right before the hat . What I donít understand is then youíll be left with the old panel sandwiched between the rivets on the roof. There will be like a 4in strip of the panel you just cut off left in there?
Hope that makes sense
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Old 09-24-2019, 07:55 PM   #83
Bus Geek
 
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Join Date: Dec 2017
Location: Dawsonville, Ga.
Posts: 7,841
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Genesis
Chassis: International
Engine: DT466/3060
Rated Cap: 77
A WanderLodge by Blue Bird is a bus body with half the ribs of a school bus. School buses are built 70x's safer than cars. removing a rib or 2 for modifications is not going to be an issue.
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Old 09-24-2019, 10:23 PM   #84
Skoolie
 
Join Date: Jul 2018
Location: Olathe, Kansas
Posts: 175
Year: 1990
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: 6-71TA
Rated Cap: 90
To raise the roof on my Crown I did the following. Much of this should apply to others.

Level Bus:
1. I got a 6"x6"x10' post and cut down to 8 pieces of 6"x6"x15" for cribbing.
2. I purchased four 12 ton jack stands from Northern Supply (going to need anyway for servicing).
3. I purchased two 20 ton jacks for front & back (going to need anyway for servicing).
4. Jacked up Bus from the frame and leveled front to back and side to side using a 3 foot level at various points.

Create Jacking brackets:
5. Purchased over 12 feet of both 1"x 1" and 1.25"x 1.25" steel square tubing
6. Purchased 24 pieces of 6"x 6"x .125" steel plate.
7. Purchased two smaller bottle jacks
8. Cut tubing to approx. 36" lengths and cut out notches in plates to fit both the smaller and larger tubing.
9. Slide 1" inch tubing inside 1.25" inch tubing and clamp to outside of one of the vertical supports. Square and spot weld plates to outer (lower) and inner (upper) tubing allowing enough space to fit bottle jacks. Repeat for all four brackets.
10. Using two of the 6"x 6" plates, cut out 3" gussets used to re-inforce steel plate below and above the jack for all four brackets.
11. Using 16 of the 6" x 6" plates, cut 16 plates (approx 3.25" to 3.5") which are the vertical support brackets used to bolt or weld to each side of the vertical supports on the bus and welded to the square tubing.
12. Weld vertical support brackets to square tubing for upper and lower supports.
13. Weld gussets to tubing and plates and other areas as needed.
14. Mount each bracket on the chosen vertical support of the Bus (roughly each corner) and drill two 3/4" holes through both the upper and lower vertical support plate and Bus vertical support.
15. Using quality 2.5" bolts fasten brackets to vertical supports on Bus.
16. Place jack in opening and determine and mark zero position.
17. Remove brackets and slide out upper plate assembly with the 1" inch tubing.
18. Scribe 1" lines in 1" inch tubing beginning at zero position up to 20".
19. Write numbers every 5 inches.
20. Complete by mounting and bolting brackets back on Vertical Supports.
21. Optional -> Use steel square tubing or wood posts as supports on the inside in case one of the jacks fail.



The above jacking brackets should prevent the roof from moving in any direction except up or down. I felt this was the best way to raise the roof on a Crown and do it myself with no assistance. Actual raise time after cutting supports was less than 2 hours. Most of that time was getting the sealant to release in the back and the constant cribbing of the bottle jacks. The scribe marks on the tubing saves alot of time and was very accurate.

For those raising the roof on a Crown, please be aware that when cutting supports prior to raising that there maybe tension that can cause the upper side supports to bow out or in. If this occurs, you can use a come-along to square it back up. Also, the web part of the vertical supports face outward on a Crown (opposite of a Thomas or Bluebird).
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