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Old 09-26-2012, 12:07 PM   #51
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Re: "Rufus"

OK... After over 8,000 miles on the bike this summer (including 8 states, Sturgis and a whole lotta fun!) it is time to get back to my beloved bus. @Lorna, I was staying at a fairgrounds in Waitsburg,WA in the camping pictures, it was for a single event (PigRoast) so a review would be a moot point. BUT...a Campground Review section would be invaluable to everyone here, as was said. I would love to donate my info. While on my trek this summer, all the places I stayed/visited, I inquired about the acceptance of schoolies, and to my surprise, even w/ wood stoves, the vast majority of them were receptive to the idea.
I am looking forward to alot of progress on Rufus this fall. My travels have tweeked my thinking a little in design of my build, but I am glad to see my "Skoolie Family" is still here and going strong. Looking forward to catching up with some of my favorite threads First off I will be reviewing this summers threads, then off and working. Good to be back!!
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Old 10-15-2012, 01:49 PM   #52
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Re: "Rufus"

I am wanting to install this stove... QUESTION: if I install a 3" or so vent to the ouside floor of the bus, will it be significant enough to avoid using "inside " air going up the chimney pipe? Or does it have to be the same size vent as the pipe? Obviously this may not work because the heater is not designed for an inside air pipe... Any help appreciated. I will still have a propane htr installed in future, but would like to use this as main source while boondocking.
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Old 10-23-2012, 09:17 AM   #53
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Re: "Rufus"

Well yesterday did not turn out as expected... After gathering all the fittings and flashing for said "stove" installation, I began to wire wheel all the soft areas where caulking was loose,I found a five inch crack in the cast. I am aware that brazing can be done, but I think I am more dissapointed that I didn't discover the crack at time of purchase. So... today I either braze or look for a replacement stove. This one seems to have a lot of "factory" seams (all of them) that would have to be fire caulked. I have to admit, I bought in a hurry that day and now I have to decide to take the losss ( I would not sell this stove to someone in this condition) and get another, or repair it and never really be content with it... *** Pondering*** (another word for procrastination )
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Old 10-23-2012, 12:01 PM   #54
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Re: "Rufus"

Quote:
Originally Posted by thommassey
Well yesterday did not turn out as expected... After gathering all the fittings and flashing for said "stove" installation, I began to wire wheel all the soft areas where caulking was loose,I found a five inch crack in the cast. I am aware that brazing can be done, but I think I am more dissapointed that I didn't discover the crack at time of purchase. So... today I either braze or look for a replacement stove. This one seems to have a lot of "factory" seams (all of them) that would have to be fire caulked. I have to admit, I bought in a hurry that day and now I have to decide to take the losss ( I would not sell this stove to someone in this condition) and get another, or repair it and never really be content with it... *** Pondering*** (another word for procrastination )

Wouldn't try to repair it, you can get a brand new stove like that for a couple hundred dollars or less....as for the air intake, my stove is a mobile home unit, if you get a mobile home approved stove it has to suck it's fresh air through the floor, that's what makes it a mobile unit. For our little wood stove ($100 on craigslist w/ 6' of interior pipe) I had to cut a 15 square inch hole in the floor, no choice, they called for a 4.5 inch diameter hole. Sorry bout the bad buy, tough to see bad welds if you don't know exactly what you're looking for. As for the heat, you really can't beat the instant warmth of a wood stove, with added ventilation, moisture shouldn't be a problem...looking good, keep it up man, we're lookin forward to more pics
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Old 10-24-2012, 07:52 PM   #55
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Re: "Rufus"

Priced R-Tech (rigid) insulation today at the box stores:
1/2" 4x8 $7.25 R-3 White w/ foil back
3/4" 4x8 8.16 R4 " "
3/4" 4x8 12.35 R4 Pink
1" 4x8 10.88 R5 White no foil back
1" 4x8 16.67 R5 Pink no foil but had TandG ends.
1 1/2" 4x8 14.86 R7.5 White w/ foil back
2" 4x8 27.25 R9 " "

If they have the R-Value written on them, they cost more. The white ones (R-Tech)only written info was via the box store sign only. The Pink were a Pink panther product w/ r value written on the product.Did not price the closed cell, but apppeared almost twice the price at a glance. Did not see the blue type as some have pictured.
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Old 11-19-2012, 08:50 PM   #56
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Re: "Rufus"

Afternoon's work, pulling up old floor, can't post pics here so will drop them in "the bucket" ... what is the board attachment quota?
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Old 12-05-2012, 11:30 AM   #57
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Re: "Rufus"

After working on old floor removal, I am convinced they did not want the floor to come up ...

I am using Pink Panther 3/4" R-4 rigid foam underlayment and 5/8" Ply on top, wood floor to follow that.. I will use 5/8 cement-board under stove, with ceramic tile (bought last fall on clearance).

Still need to re-route rear radiator heater. Was thinking about mounting it in the foot-board of bed box, but ... may create circulation issues unless I install large intake vents for heater. Problem with that? Bed box will house potable tank on one side and mechanical on the other.

The "rubber" sealer BB used on the perimeter of the original floor is extremely pliable... wish I knew what it was, it works great for keeping the floor edges sealed and allowing flexibility. Used heat gun to remove the vast majority of it. Used metallic tape to seal off any existing screw/nail holes on the steel floor prior to Pink foam.


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Old 01-09-2013, 11:28 AM   #58
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Re: "Rufus"

Finished floor ... will post pics later. Now to chimney install. Gonna copy your method eyedeal.ink except I am going to use Silicone 1600* flexible roof jack. Not sure how you attached the chimney box to the ceiling, but I think I will use backing of some kind between the ceiling and roof, then tie to that...non-flammable, of course...
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:08 AM   #59
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Re: "Rufus"

Quote:
Originally Posted by thommassey
Finished floor ... will post pics later. Now to chimney install. Gonna copy your method eyedeal.ink except I am going to use Silicone 1600* flexible roof jack. Not sure how you attached the chimney box to the ceiling, but I think I will use backing of some kind between the ceiling and roof, then tie to that...non-flammable, of course...
Lookin' great! I've been out for a bit, got a disc replaced in my neck Dec 12th, no pain, once I'm healed I'll be hittin' it hard. Anyway, the edge of the box doesn't get hot really, even after a days worth of fire it stays cool enough to touch, about as hot as the bus ceiling gets. What i did was cut 2x2 spacers, tacked 1/4 inch (lath board?) to make 1-3/4" (the thickness of the ceiling gap), wrapped that in metal tape, inserted it into the ceiling space and shot two screws in to hold them. At this point I have a framed opening that I stick the box up into, it's slightly snug because I've measured twice and all that good stuff and I got lucky

Using a level on the edge of the ceiling box from up on the roof I marked the edges of the box at the roof then I drove six screws into the metal ceiling supports followed by six more into the 2x2's. At this point I have a box with a hole sticking into the bus, face level at ~2" on one side and ~4" on the other and a large square opening sticking up out of my roof ~12" high? (I don't remember dimensions, it's been a while). It is supported and not going anywhere. I don't really care how much is sticking in as long as it's esthetically pleasing and level.

The next thing I did was cut my box at the corners down to the roof so the walls could be bent over; curved sides gotta be cut into smaller pieces so they lay flat. I put high temp silicone under these tabs and screwed them down close to the edge of the opening. It doesn't look pretty at this point and there may be a more elegant way to do it but it works. This is followed by your exterior pipe and flashing. Flashing got five laps of high temp silicone and one screw in each hole starting in the middle and alternating sides towards the top and bottom (predrilled at every 1" ?), then siliconed all screws and exterior seam. Once this is in, add the storm collar (silicone and three screws to hold it down) and chimney cap. Good luck my friend.
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Old 01-10-2013, 01:58 AM   #60
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Re: "Rufus"

Sounds like a Big time saver on the box install, the bent tabs are a great idea, plus less cutting ! Will keep you posted on results... Thanks EyeDeal!
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