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Old 01-02-2014, 02:40 AM   #71
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Eastern Washington
Posts: 234
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Bluebird
Chassis: All American RE
Engine: 3208TA Cat 250HP
Rated Cap: 84
TUMBLEWEED aka "Rufus"

Chimney Attached to sheet metal for now till I get some "C" channel for bracing between roof and ceiling.
Note to self: If roof sealer has been frozen or close to it , it will not adhere and will run down the side and make a mess.
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Old 01-02-2014, 02:45 AM   #72
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Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Eastern Washington
Posts: 234
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Chassis: All American RE
Engine: 3208TA Cat 250HP
Rated Cap: 84
TUMBLEWEED aka "Rufus"

Top two foot section on roof will come down while transit (have cap).
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Old 01-02-2014, 03:05 AM   #73
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Year: 1986
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Chassis: All American RE
Engine: 3208TA Cat 250HP
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TUMBLEWEED aka "Rufus"

Anchoring. Used 1/2" emt as cover for bolt threads going to the floor. Black paint later.
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File Type: jpg 20131231_113441.jpg (22.4 KB, 513 views)
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Old 01-04-2014, 07:27 AM   #74
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Re: "Rufus"

As cold as its been up there, how does the stove do in a naked bus?
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Old 01-21-2014, 04:24 PM   #75
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Re: "Rufus"

Keeps the bus around 65 deg at the drivers area when outside temp about 30+-. Setting the vent to low-med. On high vent, windows need to be opened...

Have the first bunk framed in. Next to it will be #2 bunk with 94 gallon water tank under it.

Insulation should be complete before this stage, but I am readying for a winter camp-out in the Blue Mountains in Feb. So, bunk and water and toilet, then after trip, insulate. But of course, window removal with steel panels and insulation before that...
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Old 01-30-2014, 01:45 PM   #76
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Re: "Rufus"

Wow, great pics, Nice detail.

Good job on the stove install. The piece you used on the roof is made for plumbing. If it was steel, it would help hold the chimney upright. However, I think you made the right choice as long as the outside of your insulated pipe never gets too hot. Most of that insulated pipe is made for 0 clearance to combustibles, so it should be fine.

I also know that no company makes a metal roof jack that will conform to the curved shape of a bus roof. Again, you chose the best piece for the job.

Just out of curiosity, why are you changing the single wall pipe over the stove to double wall? Won't that section just add a bit more heat to the room?

Nat
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Old 02-16-2014, 12:14 AM   #77
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Re: "Rufus"

Quote:
Originally Posted by nat_ster
Wow, great pics, Nice detail.

Good job on the stove install. The piece you used on the roof is made for plumbing. If it was steel, it would help hold the chimney upright. However, I think you made the right choice as long as the outside of your insulated pipe never gets too hot. Most of that insulated pipe is made for 0 clearance to combustibles, so it should be fine.

I also know that no company makes a metal roof jack that will conform to the curved shape of a bus roof. Again, you chose the best piece for the job.

Just out of curiosity, why are you changing the single wall pipe over the stove to double wall? Won't that section just add a bit more heat to the room?

Nat
The roof jack (flexible high temp silicone) on top is made for high temp penetrations, steam pipes, chimneys, etc. (http://abccatalog.com/view_groups.asp?idgroup=408) and the sticker on it says up to 1600 deg. That is why I used such heavy steel on inside for support. The top two feet of chimney and spark arrestor twist off and removed while in motion, then back on while parked. I used a screw on roof cap while not in use or driving. Only 6-8 inches is exposed outside while driving. So all weight is inside, and much less resistance on the road. Plus stove is bolted to floor and frame. Oh, and as far as double wall all the way down, there is two reasons...First, double wall is manufactured to twist and seat together, making a stronger joint. In addition I added the seam strap, (factory) over the joint, which makes the joint virtually as one. I cannot walk up and push on the joint and move it. Second reason... it looks better! ... and with that stove (blaze king) I will never have trouble with not enough heat. (Is that three??)
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Old 02-16-2014, 04:15 AM   #78
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Re: "Rufus"

Quote:
Originally Posted by thommassey
The roof jack (flexible high temp silicone) on top is made for high temp penetrations, steam pipes, chimneys, etc. (http://abccatalog.com/view_groups.asp?idgroup=408) and the sticker on it says up to 1600 deg.

Nice, so you found the roof jack that all the members on here should be using.

Nat
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Old 02-17-2014, 11:48 PM   #79
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Re: "Rufus"

New tie rods last week and replaced an air hose going to the compressor. Now I am having (randomly) starting issues. Only when real warm (engine) or real cold. Maybe starter rebuild time. Going to fill potable water tank tomorrow to determine if I have any leaks before I start install. The little sensors on the level marks are missing so I need to find some of those too. Still have not decided which control board to use for tanks and batteries and stuff like that, may just build one.
Moving forward... progress, not perfection they say!
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Old 08-13-2014, 03:06 AM   #80
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Re: "Rufus"

Well, back to business... took six months off to remodel a rental, move into a new house, and I even found time to marry my best friend! So... now we are settling back into the "DO BUS" mode and can't believe all the stuff we have missed here!! Trying to catch up on some of you, as we have time. I did purchase a package deal on CriagsList in the spring from a wrecked (took the side out on an inside turn in the mountains along a guard rail, insurance totaled it ) 2010 fifth wheel. A guy bought the whole thing and I was able to get all the appliances (w/h 10 gal, convection oven/micro, forced air furnace, cook-top, stereo, toilet, and two roof airs. Scored big time on the frig (double door, double freezer) and it will be nice to know I am putting two year old equipment into "Tumbleweed". Look forward to some progress now. Will keep you posted as we knock down the cobwebs and get back to it! Here is the beauty that puts up with me!
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