RV There Yet? The tale of a 92 BB TC2000

[Stu & Filo. T]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

I'm so lucky to be young. 2 to 3 hits for me.

Just be safe guys.

Nat

Yea , I missed a few time

[White99z]

I used the cheapest Husky brand Air Hammer and Husky Chisel set from Home Depot. It cost me $37 for the set. There is a chisel that has a notch in it in the set. I found this one worked the best. I didn't find that out until the last day though. I did have to sharpen my standard chisel once during the whole thing. It took me 2 days, by myself to remove all the ceiling panels and wall panels of my 92 TC2000 (72 passenger). I even got hasty and removed all the BIG rivets holding the chair rail in before I realized it was structural I know Nat_ster likes his hammer and cold chisel with a hand guard, but that S@#t isn't for me Air tools all the way! I had sore hands, but that's about it. Oh yeah, I cranked the PSI up to 120 also, even though it called for 90. I found this helped a lot. My cheap air hammer did fine. Make sure to oil it every so often! I wouldn't hesitate to do it again this way. Heck... I would even be willing to do it for a friend! It wasn't a hassle at all... really. I got in a nice groove and just went for it

[White99z]

PS: I just did this last week!

[White99z]

Here you go! 40 minutes of work condensed into 40 seconds of time-lapse video.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eIq96-f ... e=youtu.be

[opus]

There would be a tag on the tranny itself. Its most like a 545.

[kenny76]

OK so here is what I did. I went to China Freight and snagged a 21 gallon 2.5hp air compressor. I figure I will need more than my pancake for this conversion anyhow so I will likely get $150 in use from it. It should power the chisel I have for more than one rivet. I felt like jello after getting just 1 rib done. I need to get the roof down asap and the walls off so I can get it spray foamed. I found a local guy who is willing to give me a price but only after he can give an accurate estimate.

[kenny76]

I would have to disagree with the roof estimate. The roof is an arch whose base is 7.5 ft wide. It is his business in any way I look at it so I will await his professional estimate. I intend on creating a thermal break but not how another did it but along the same lines.

[White99z]

Originally Posted by kenny76

I would have to disagree with the roof estimate. The roof is an arch whose base is 7.5 ft wide. It is his business in any way I look at it so I will await his professional estimate. I intend on creating a thermal break but not how another did it but along the same lines.

I was wondering (and sorry for the quick hijack)... could a thermal break be created by putting rubber strips along the roof rails/supports? This could save headroom for those of us who aren't doing a roof raise. How do you plan on doing yours?

[kenny76]

I am going to cut plywood into 4 to 6 inch strips. I will then attach one edge to the roof ribs allowing one end to overhang. The roof is going to be covered in wainscoting or plywood or 1xs. I havent made my mind up, however the roof treatment will be attached to the plywood strips not to the ribs. This will prevent the transfer of hot or cold by the fasteners and will still provide a surface to securely attach the ceiling to the roof structure. I dont know if my explanation is as clear as the idea is in my mind.

[kenny76]

Oh and my new air compressor works great. I worked for about an hour and got two sections on the floor tonight before it got past my 8pm cut off by the noise ordnance.

[Malkieri]

Something like this should work to maintain thermal break and give you your headroom. You could even attach a block on the opposite side of the rib making a sandwich and double the attachments of the skin to the ribs.

[White99z]

Originally Posted by kenny76

I am going to cut plywood into 4 to 6 inch strips. I will then attach one edge to the roof ribs allowing one end to overhang. The roof is going to be covered in wainscoting or plywood or 1xs. I havent made my mind up, however the roof treatment will be attached to the plywood strips not to the ribs. This will prevent the transfer of hot or cold by the fasteners and will still provide a surface to securely attach the ceiling to the roof structure. I dont know if my explanation is as clear as the idea is in my mind.

This is totally clear. This is how I plan on doing my walls. Just wondering if there were different ways for the ceilings!

[White99z]

Originally Posted by Malkieri

Something like this should work to maintain thermal break and give you your headroom. You could even attach a block on the opposite side of the rib making a sandwich and double the attachments of the skin to the ribs.

Wow! This is an interesting setup. I haven't seen this before. Is there anyone that you know of on the forum with this done in a build thread so I can see it in photos? It seems to me that this setup would be great for adding things connected to the ceiling too, like cabinets due to added strength.

The one difficult thing that I see with this setup would be to maintain an exact "overhang" of each 2x2 so you get a flat ceiling. Seems like it would be easy to get some variation.

[gmarvel]

When I had the same discussion about my headliner, I was cautioned by structural engineers to not get rid of the metal headliner that is riveted to the roof frame. It creates a rigidity and overall strength that you lose if the interlocking headliner is removed and replaced with wood or some other covering. I don't know about Blue Birds, but Crowns have interlocking headliner panels that are riveted to the roof beams and structure. This interlocking feature and the 1000+ rivets connecting this interlocking roof to the roof frames creates a roof so strong that you can drop a Crown from 20+ feet on its roof and it will not collapse. None of us may ever be put into a situation where that kind of roof integrity and strength will be needed. However, I like knowing that I still have it. That is why I took my headliner down, did closed cell spray foam insulation, and then put the headliner back up (cushioned by thick rubberized tape to create some sort of thermal break).

Having said all of that, the beauty of this site is that all of us can explore different ways to achieve our conversion dreams.

[kenny76]

The problem I see with the 2x2 block is it will be occupying insulation real estate and will be extremely hard to curve with the roof. I saw how airborne rust was done and I will do mine but instead of running the strips length wise the strips will run the same as the ribs. I measured my roof panels and came up with this. Each panel is 89 inches in length. There are two panels under those that are wire chases down the side above the windows. Each is 12 3/4 inches. if you figure the overlap that means it is at least 109 inches from window to window following the roof line. Dividing that out is roughly 9ft. Much more than 7 foot 5. However, like I said it is his business and he will be providing the estimate and wants to see what I want done. In the end it will be his reputation on meeting the quote. I doubt I would get very far telling him what he is going to charge me for his service and product. That may work in some parts of the country, but not here.

[kenny76]

That's the best part of this whole thing.... Everyone gets to do it how they want to!

Today's after work activities included cleaning up the yard from all the flooring and getting it into the trash cans. After that, I was able to get the rattlecan work done to cover some scratches on the bumpers and to stop the rust on the bumper where the crossing arm was mounted. Covered up the school bus wording on both ends so its less School Bus like.

[kenny76]

Got a good bit accomplished yesterday. Drove the bus to the scrap yard and dump. I sold the steel from the roof and seats ( 900 lbs ) and then took the seat foam and pleather and insulation to the dump. In the process I got several offers to buy my bus which were all declined. I then went seat shopping for a driver and co pilot seat. I found a nice leather seat that has the built in seat belt from a 2007 trailblazer. I also got a center 2nd row seat from a chevy venture van. It folds flat and has a built in seat belt. I also gathered three lap belts out of a dodge conversion van for the children. The LKQ place had a seat sale going on. I still came home with cash in my pocket so I am ahead.

Once I got home I started the a/c unit removal process. It was a bear to say the least but its done.

My added bonus, I got a fee scale slip on the bus. Post steel sale but pre dump run I was at 15,140 lbs!

[kenny76]

We purchased our floor insulation and plywood tonight and plan to get going this week in after work and see how much gets done. Our a/c arrived today and we have located our potential fridge which is on sale at the Depot. I have to get moving because the heat is coming and the bus is zero percent insulated and naked on the inside.

[kenny76]

Oh and one other thing.... whats the deal with the gallery? Every time I go to look at it is down.

[opus]

[taps Nat on shoulder and points] http://www.skoolie.net/gallery/