I believe I have the A/C situation resolved (gotta love the Internet!). I found this unit Celiera Mini-split A/C
. The inside unit is only 31" x 7" x 11" and will (should) easily fit over the couch and/or deck area facing the centerline of the bus. I'll either use another in the bedroom or use a roof top unit there where its intrusion at the ceiling isn't an issue.
For those of us into "system" specs here's where I'm at thus far:
: The above mentioned system.
: Main heat is a Webasto
hot water diesel fired heater. This will have a loop around the bus with various radiators as necessary (probably one under the couch, a toekick unit in the kitchen and a radiator in the bedroom). The bus heater hose will remain in place to feed the front bus heaters and defroster. On its way there the hot coolant from the engine will pass through a water-to-water heat exchanger that's in the Webasto loop. With the bus engine running its hot coolant will supply heat to the Webasto heating system via the heat exchanger; with the bus engine shut down the Webasto boiler will heat the water (and the engine block if necessary). This will also loop through the water heater for hot water underway.
Secondary (and backup) heat will come from theDickinson P12000
stainless propane fireplace in the living area. This is a direct vent unit made primarily for the marine industry. It has a glass-front and will give a bit of ambiance; it's also located close to the lounge chair (mine!) and since I'm the one that's always cold I can stay a bit warmer by the fireplace without driving my wife out of the bus (I hope).
: A 98-gallon ready-made poly fresh water tank under the master bed where it will stay warm and allow easy inside-the-bus plumbing. I'll use the typical water pump and accumulator to feed the system.
: Attwood 6-gallon 3-way (propane, electric, heat exchanger). This will be plumbed into the Webasto heater loop which means it can be heated by the bus engine or the Webasto boiler (in addition to propane or AC shorepower).
: Two 50-gallon ready-made poly tanks in the under bus storage bay; one is about centered aft for the black water from the toilet the other forward and outboard for the grey water from the kitchen sink and shower (it will use a sump and pump the water over). The bathroom sink may feed into the black tank as well...we'll see. Both tanks will be equipped with holding tank heaters.
: Four 20# Lite Cylinder
composite propane tanks located in a sealed compartment built into the under bus storage bay on the driver's side.
Two tanks a time will be connected to a regulator and will feed the cooking range (a 3-burner Surburban unit), the water heater (6-gallon), and the Dickinson propane fireplace.
: A Suburban 3-burner propane range. This unit has one 9,000-btu burner so when it's time to boil the water for pasta it'll actually happen! I got the tall unit with the larger oven.
Planned above this unit is a GE Profile microwave/convection oven which is also a vent. This unit is still under consideration and we may change it.
: Norcold DE-0061, 7 cubic foot AC/DC model. This is a "real" refrigerator with a highly efficient Danfoss compressor and not an absorbtion refrigerator; so no issues with being off-level and such. This unit only draws 2 to 3 amps on DC and .4 amps on AC. It will be an easy unit to keep running with the battery system we'll have and I don't have to worry about propane for it. Which also means I don't need the big grate in the side of the bus and the roof vent.
: 30-amp shorepower inlet feeding a Xantrex RS-2000 pure sine wave inverter (which is also a 120-amp mulit-stage charger). This unit has a 30-amp transfer switch which will automatically pass shorepower through to the main AC distribution panel (or switch to inverter power if the shorepower cable is unplugged). This may get upgraded to the RS3000 model after all the computations are done. All wiring is Ancor marine tinned boat cable.
: We'll have <revised> 440 AH of battery power. I have decided yet which batteries I use and part of the decision will be based on where I can put them in the bus. I'd like to go with AGM for shear convenience but their cost-per-AH is high comparitively. A good set of Rolls premium batteries won't cost any more but I'll get more AH for the same cash and considerably longer life (if they're cared for properly and therein lies the "kicker"!). All wiring is Ancor marine tinned boat wire.
: All lighting will be DC. Space lighting will come from CCF (Cold Cathode Fluorescent) lights in the ceiling. Task lighting may be CCF, LED or Halogen as necessary. Where CCF isn't availalbe I'll use 12-volt fluorescent bulbs (like in the table lamp).
My main electrical distibution panel (or panels) will be by Blue Sea Systems
; my first choice is the Model 8684
which has AC main plus 6 circuits and DC main plus 16 cicuits. Built for rugged marine use, well organized, and high quailty.
So here's a quick overview of the electrical system. The goal is to keep it simple to use, simple to find or isolate trouble, have it last for years and above all be safe!
I'm still unsure of the generator I'll use...there will be one because I don't know how to keep the Air Conditioners going on the road without it...but I'm still not sure which one (or even which fuel). For the purpose of my electrcial system it doesn't make any difference as long as it can pump out 30 amps (which means 3500-watts and above).
Near the Blue Sea systems main electrical panel will be a Blue Sea Systems rotary Source Selector Switch; this will allow me to choose between Shorepower or Generator. The output from the Source Selector Switch feeds the Xantrex RS2000 Inverter/Charger. The Xantrex simply transfers the AC power from shorepower or the genset to the Blue Sea Systems distribution panel if AC is present from the Source Selector Switch or supplies AC from the batteries if it isn't. The panel (thorugh the circuit breakers) then sends out power to the various devices as normal.
On the DC side the Blue Sea Systems main panel it connected to the battery bank and via its 16 circuits feeds the DC loads (lighting, fresh water pump, 12-volt entertainment circuit, refrigerator, waste tanks macerator pumps, shower sump pump, etc).
The bus has a 200-amp alternator. I'll install a Blue Sea Systems ACR (Automatic Charging Relay)
between the positive post of the starting batteries and the postive post of the house bank. When the starting batteries come back up to 13.6 volts (usually after having just started the engine) the ACR kicks in and sends charging current from the engine alternator to the house battery bank. It cuts back out at 12/6 volts so the house bank can not discharge the starting battery bank. No voltage drop on this as there is with a battery isolator and it can be controlled at the drivers seat (or anywhere else) with a simple toggle switch (if for some reason you want to override its automatic functions).
Guess I've written too much yet again!