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Old 02-29-2016, 07:11 PM   #41
Bus Nut
 
Join Date: Feb 2014
Location: The Valley - Arizona
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Year: 1999
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Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
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Absolutely fabulous! I love these older builds! Check on ebay for some surplus places in Indiana and Michigan, you can most likely find a surplus low profile ac for a few hundred bucks and it will have minor issues like the cover was scratched.

-Doc

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Old 02-29-2016, 08:03 PM   #42
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
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Year: 1956
Coachwork: Wayne
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Engine: Ford Big Block FE
The replacement glass finally showed up, and it looks like the replacement seals I found will work perfectly.



I'll try to get it installed this week.
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Old 03-01-2016, 09:56 AM   #43
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Basement A/C's are great if you have he room underneath. On my shorty there was no room for such a set up so I had to rig what you see below. A standard window unit fits inside the steel box and vent out the rear. The top of the box will be flush with a roof rack that'll stand just a few inches above the existing bus roof. On the interior it only hangs down right in front of the back door where you have to duck anyway.


Like you, I could not stand the way conventional RV A/C's look. Especially on the old curved roofs.


The new window units are extremely efficient and cheaper to replace than having a typical RV unit serviced.

Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
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Old 03-01-2016, 02:09 PM   #44
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Nice workmanship on the sheet metal, Tango!
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:56 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Basement A/C's are great if you have he room underneath. On my shorty there was no room for such a set up so I had to rig what you see below. A standard window unit fits inside the steel box and vent out the rear. The top of the box will be flush with a roof rack that'll stand just a few inches above the existing bus roof. On the interior it only hangs down right in front of the back door where you have to duck anyway.


Like you, I could not stand the way conventional RV A/C's look. Especially on the old curved roofs.


The new window units are extremely efficient and cheaper to replace than having a typical RV unit serviced.

Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
That looks very good. I have a cabinet that I could put a window style unit in. I would need a unit that would draw and exhaust out of the back, with no side vents. That's on the list of things to consider. For this summer, I'm probably going to use what I already have, and concentrate on getting it usable. A new air conditioner might be next winters project.
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Old 03-01-2016, 03:57 PM   #46
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In other news, the rear glass fit. The new window seals worked perfect.

The rest of the seals and the glass for the rear door are now on the way.

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Old 03-01-2016, 04:12 PM   #47
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You may have done it, but it's a good idea to treat any rust and throw at least some primer on the metal before installing new windows. Especially a unit that old. I am having to do that with mine.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:26 PM   #48
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You may have done it, but it's a good idea to treat any rust and throw at least some primer on the metal before installing new windows. Especially a unit that old. I am having to do that with mine.

Amazingly enough, there is no rust in the window frames so far. I'm kind of shocked, because I assumed there would be. I'm leaving the original paint intact, it's worked well for 59 years, I'll let it keep doing its thing. It probably has all kinds of lead and other fun toxins to help keep the rust at bay.
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Old 03-01-2016, 04:32 PM   #49
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Outstanding! And Roger the lead.
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Old 03-01-2016, 05:30 PM   #50
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango View Post
Basement A/C's are great if you have he room underneath. On my shorty there was no room for such a set up so I had to rig what you see below. A standard window unit fits inside the steel box and vent out the rear. The top of the box will be flush with a roof rack that'll stand just a few inches above the existing bus roof. On the interior it only hangs down right in front of the back door where you have to duck anyway.


Like you, I could not stand the way conventional RV A/C's look. Especially on the old curved roofs.


The new window units are extremely efficient and cheaper to replace than having a typical RV unit serviced.

Just a thought. Keep up the good work.
Mount some colored LED lights inside the a/c grille for a different look!
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:08 PM   #51
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Naaa-make it shoot sparks-it looks like the Rocketeer!
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Old 03-01-2016, 06:25 PM   #52
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Ya...Actually, I am kinda goin' for that Rocketeer look. Now if I just had Howard Hughes money to pull it off right.
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Old 03-02-2016, 09:17 AM   #53
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Big time jealous of some people's metalworking skills!

For AC units, I'm planning to use a couple window units modified to be ducted, putting them under the floor. I'll probably need some in-duct booster fans.

The roof AC I put into the emergency exit is going away, mainly because it leaks and no amount of fighting with it seems to cure that.

I need a 2nd AC for the bedroom anyway, so I figure that will be the test to figure out if I can make the basement AC work, and then I can dump that hog on the roof.
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Old 03-02-2016, 10:08 AM   #54
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Great plan Dan --- Ducted basement units rock. Especially when set up using high efficiency window units
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Old 03-16-2016, 05:44 PM   #55
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Not a lot has happened in the last few weeks since I've been out of town every weekend.

I did managed a couple of small projects.

Side window replacement is underway. It took some digging to figure out how to get the windows out. Glass has showed up, new rubber glazing has been sourced, and the frames are in primer. I'm hoping to put them back in this weekend.

All the seals and glass for the rear widows is also here. They will also go in this weekend.

The rear door latch consisted of a hasp and padlock. That wasn't acceptable. I wanted to be able to open the door from the interior. I sourced a couple of vintage looking RV latches that are perfect.





The water tank had a couple of places that had been patched. Today I filled it with water and it leaked nicely. A new 40 gallon tank has been sourced and is on the way.



The new tank is a little smaller so I can relocated the water pump to a location I can get to it without standing on my head.

I also pulled and tested the water pump. It runs like a champ.



I have also decided to strip it down the rest of the way for paint. I've picked up a water sandblaster and a couple of hundred pounds of sand to help with that. Here's a short video of how it works.



More to come as it happens...
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:30 PM   #56
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Join Date: Feb 2014
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Chassis: Freight-shaker (Freightliner)
Engine: Cat 3126b 250 HP
Rated Cap: Only 1 seat
That is awesome! It saves you from having to wear a respirator and a hood! I am so looking up the kit to attach on my pressure washer right now!!!!!

Nice find on the handle!

-Doc
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Old 03-16-2016, 06:52 PM   #57
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Northern Tool carries them for about $70.
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Old 03-16-2016, 09:36 PM   #58
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Yea-you got to let us know how that works for you.
I could follow your thread just for the cars that pop up in the background of your pics.
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Old 03-17-2016, 11:01 AM   #59
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I have also decided to strip it down the rest of the way for paint. I've picked up a water sandblaster and a couple of hundred pounds of sand to help with that. Here's a short video of how it works.

More to come as it happens...
Yeah, I've seen the same vids. That water sand blasting looks like a very effective thing; looking forward to hearing about your experiences with it.

Strange looking water pump! I assume that eccentric on the shaft is connected to some sort of plate in some sort of chamber with check valves into and out of it? The only place I've seen something like that in use was the guy who came to pump out my septic.
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Old 03-17-2016, 08:45 PM   #60
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Dan-fox, it works just like a mud pump. I hooked it up to a water source today to test the pressure switch so I shot a short video for the interested.

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