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Old 05-06-2009, 01:32 PM   #21
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Re: Scotts first bus

i guess some people are jealous of that mighty fine bus of yers maybe if you drove it in reverse they will be happy

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Old 05-07-2009, 12:12 PM   #22
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Re: Scotts first bus

OK, once again I need to draw from the well of knowledge.

I am trying to draw up my wiring plan, and need some help with what can be with what.

I want to have two 110 plans, one from shore power and one from an inverter. I will have a portable solar panel for charging the 12 volt batteries, and also want to have a charger running off the shore power 110. I do not want to connect or run anything from the bus batteries, but will get another set for all interior needs, and want them to be also charged by bus alternator if need be.

The problem is that I have been told and read at various times that some 12v wires should not be run in same chase as 110 wires. Or maybe it was cannot run inverter fed 110 wires with 12 volt.......

I am also trying to figure out what guage of wire to use for the various runs throughout.

Electronics are not one of my specialties....lil help here?

As always, thanks for any ideas.
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Old 05-07-2009, 02:26 PM   #23
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Re: Scotts first bus

I don't see any reason to see why you can't run 110 and 12 volt wires in the same chase. I think most people believe that stranded wires are best for a skoolie, although i've used both stranded wire and standard romex with good results.

for connecting batteries and/or inverters i like 00 welding cable.

for regular wiring to lights/outlets and the like it ultimate depends on your end use, but it would be nice to use 12 guage wire for your 110 volt applications.

as for shore power/inverter power i like to power my entire bus from 1 circuit with a 20 amp male plug. Then i have to option to plug that into the inverter, shore power, or generator. This method is inexpensive, and gives you zero opportunity to accidentally plug your inverter into the power grid. The fancier option is to buy an expensive inverter. some fancy inverters will automatically switch between shower power/inverter power when you plug the bus in.
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Old 05-07-2009, 03:20 PM   #24
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Re: Scotts first bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by lapeer20m
I don't see any reason to see why you can't run 110 and 12 volt wires in the same chase.
AC wiring has a magnetic field constantly being created and collapsed around the wire. This magnetic field will interact with any other wires near it, inducing an AC electric charge in those wires. If you put an oscilloscope on an AC wire you should see a nice pretty sine wave. On a DC wire you should get a straight horizontal line. On a DC wire run too close to an AC wire you will see all sorts of spikes and sine waves.

If a DC line is run to (for example) an audio amp and runs next to an AC line running to (for example) an air conditioner, then when that A/C compressor kicks in you could see a huge DC spike hitting that amplifier. You will hear a "thump" in the speakers.

Sensitive electronics will care. lights and fans won't care.

the biggest problem I saw with ethernet cables was when they were run poorly in a drop ceiling too close to flourescent lamps. Talk about voltage spikes and data loss... lost a few network cards that way.

If you keep your DC wires at least 3 inches away from your AC wires, and only cross them at a right angle, you should minimize the problems. That is the installation spec for data cables.

Oh, and you should also follow the same rules for speaker wires and AC wires.

hope this helps,
jim
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Old 05-07-2009, 04:20 PM   #25
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Re: Scotts first bus

Thanks badPuppy that is some very good info. I might have to go and relocate my 110V wires. now i still can, soon it will be to late.
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:16 AM   #26
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Re: Scotts first bus

cool!

I am understanding everything except the inverter issue. should I run two separate sets of 110 wires? one from shore power and one from inverter and keep them away from each other?

If I understand everything else, I am going to run all 12 volt wires down one side of overhead chase, all audio type wires down the other side overhead, 110 wires coming from shore power under windows on one side and 110 wires from inverter down other side under windows..? or can I use the same wires for 110 and just use transfer switch?

I just went through the great "stranded vs solid" debate in the how to wire up the bus tutorial and here's where I stand on the issue: I don't know the technical part of the issue, but I have a few stranded wire extension cords that have been put through the ringer a few times and never failed, so I think I will go to home depot and spend a couple hundred bucks getting a good supply of 50' and 75' extension cords. I will get a few real heavy duty and get two different colors so I can separate the 12v from the 110 shore power and the inverter.

I am also thinking of getting two or three transfer switches (expensive, but i think vital.) to run one set of 110 wires and just be able to switch from shore to inverter power.

once I get all this figured out i get to start to work out the audio and video wiring mess

thanks
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Old 05-08-2009, 09:23 AM   #27
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Re: Scotts first bus

OK, I just had a brain flash

If I am running 12v power to an inverter changing it to 110v, why would I need to run 12v wires into the bus at all? what things am I going to be wiring up in the interior that would run off 12v?

I think it is time to let the brain rest for a while, is on overload.

Thanks in advance for help with this everyone.

Scott, the brain fried transit driver.
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:50 AM   #28
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Re: Scotts first bus

not sure if i'm understanding you right but here are a few things that are 12 v that you might want to wire to an other batterybank and not your starter batteries.
In dash radio / cd /dvd / player, AMP what ever you plan for sound, dont wanna run down your starter batt. while listening to tunes.
12 V interior lights, RV style types or LED's
12V waterpump
12V to the 2-way 3-way fridge
12V Aux. / cigarette lighter plug in for charging things like mp3players, i pod etc.
12V Fan / powered roof vent

thats just a few.....keep that brain working
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Old 05-08-2009, 11:42 PM   #29
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Re: Scotts first bus

OK,
I now have my one brain cell focused again. (Married with children)

I will need wires for all those items and maybe more. I am not going to disconnect anything that is currently wired and working if it is going to be in finished bus, but will be adding a lot of other things....

Thanks again.
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Old 05-09-2009, 10:28 PM   #30
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Re: Scotts first bus

whats a 2 way 3 way fridge?
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Old 05-10-2009, 12:47 AM   #31
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Re: Scotts first bus

and for the 2 way fridge even do it runs on propane or 110v it still needs 12v for the circuit board. At least mine does.
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Old 05-10-2009, 03:19 AM   #32
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Re: Scotts first bus

Swinada,that is true with my 3 way fridge,it needs 12 v to work!You need cold beer at all costs
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:12 AM   #33
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Re: Scotts first bus

Can someone tell me how to contact the board administrator?

I tried to post some photos that I have taken and it told me the board quota had been reached.

I have no clue what that means.

Thanks
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Old 05-11-2009, 11:51 AM   #34
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Re: Scotts first bus

Quote:
Originally Posted by newbusser
Can someone tell me how to contact the board administrator?...
You just did when you posted!

Don't worry, I'm sure Steve will see your post on his next round through here, and will have an answer for you in fairly short order.
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Old 05-13-2009, 11:41 AM   #35
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Re: Scotts first bus

Still getting the same message when I try to attach a pic. Not sure what it means.

I got some more of the old flooring tore out and am starting to take up old wood under the rubber. I was going to try to just cut out bad spots and replace them, but there r more bad than good, so it is all going to come up, get a good coat of POR on the metal and new wood.

I'll post some more pics as soon as I figure out the Quota filled message.

Also, would it be a good idea for me to send a message to Steve asking what I am doing wrong? Don't usually send PM to someone unless they ok it first
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Old 05-13-2009, 12:23 PM   #36
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Re: Scotts first bus

I would just send a PM to steve and ask whats going on.

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Old 05-14-2009, 08:41 AM   #37
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Re: Scotts first bus

I suspect there is a file attachment size limit (quota) and that your picture files are too big. Only Steve can say for sure though.

Try using something like irfanview or the image resizer power tool from microsoft to resize your pictures down to 640x480 and see if it will let you upload one after that change.

good luck,
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Old 05-18-2009, 07:00 PM   #38
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Re: Scotts first bus

I am thinking of doing away with the radiator fluid heaters, and running a loop on the motor to return the hot water back into the system without it entering the inside of bus. my question is: does anyone have any suggestions for heaters while bus is in motion? I thought of trying to find some 12 volt heaters and putting in three or so, and also thought of installing regular wall mount 110 power setups with a separate inverter for each......

Any ideas?
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Old 05-18-2009, 08:43 PM   #39
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Re: Scotts first bus

Electric heat takes lots of power. The load at 12 volts, especially the current and required wire size, is a problem. Cabin heat running off of 12-volt inverters draws more power and gets expensive. It will also stress your alternator.

Where electric heat comes in very handy is when the bus is plugged into the grid at a campground or home base.

For going down the road, I would recommend either running a genset if using electric heat, or keeping at least part of the fluid loops. If you are worried about losing engine coolant due to leaks, I'd suggest using a heat exchanger (like Jason heats jacuzzis with) between the engine antifreeze loop and the cabin antifreeze loop.

(A coolant cabin heater can also be activated to help keep the engine cool during long climbs in the mountains or thunder runs over hot summer asphalt.)
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Old 06-04-2009, 07:59 PM   #40
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Re: Scotts first bus

Your right. After a major re-think, I am going to clean up and use the two heaters in better spots for heat while underway.

I have a line on a electric start, 6600 watt generator that has just had a sound deadening box built around it and the lady who owns it doesn't want it anymore. I offered her $800, which is low for this area, so I hope she decides to take the money and run

Health issues have kept me from working much on the bird, but will post some more when I am back up and running.
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