Scotts first bus - Page 4

newbusser · 09-27-2009, 10:10 PM

WOW! Lots of good replys.

The idea was to put it down on top of the bare floor, then thin layer of insulation or roll out styrofoam. plywood on top of that and my hard wood floor on top of that. I can get a gallon can of duplo bedliner here for about the same as a gallon of rustoleam, so am just going to kick it around for a bit.

I have a lot of small holes to seal cuz the sub floor guy at the Blue Bird factory was an over-achiever and went nuts with his nail gun, and thought the thicker bedliner would do the trick. After application it will never be seen again (by me at least) so color doesn't matter, as well as shine and ease of cleaning.

I'll post again when I figure it out.

C00LR · 10-15-2009, 10:07 AM

I checked in to having my roof done with Rhino Liner... Just from talking on the phone with the lady who runs the place... We are looking at about $200 to $2300 to do it. WOW that stuff is EXPEN$IVE!!! Thought I'd add that since the roof and floor are usually the same size except for the curvature on the top.

newbusser · 10-27-2009, 11:53 AM

Thanks for the info smitty!

I am also hooked on the freezer as a fridge idea. I have ordered the controller and will put it on a shelf till I am ready for it. then start shopping for the perfect size chest freezer.

newbusser · 11-22-2009, 12:07 AM

Ok,
Time for an update.

Haven't gotten much more done other than getting the rest of the floor out and starting on the prep work. I did decide to change my floor plan, again, and move the entry door. I want the love of my life next to me instead of behind me, so door has to be moved back a bit. (This also allows me to keep my eye on her in case I say something to irritate her and she takes a swing

I am doing a search for all entries concerning this now so I can study up on it. I figure I am going to loose about 5 feet of underbelly cargo area, but i think it will be worth it.

We are deep into the monsoon season here in the Pacific Northwest, so most work being done is on paper or inside the bus.

Later

and by the way, I stole my signature saying from mark twain from another site, but it touched me so i didn't think they'd mind.
Scott

TygerCub · 11-22-2009, 05:51 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newbusser

I stole my signature saying from mark twain from another site, but it touched me so i didn't think they'd mind.

Keep it! It's a great saying by a great man that still holds true today.

newbusser · 01-04-2010, 07:00 PM

Need some input. I am thinking of committing sacrilege. I was lucky enough to get a bus with the huge underbelly cargo storage areas, and I am thinking of dropping it.

I have to fit a black water tank, a gray water tank, a battery bank of at least six, a generator storage area, a spare tire carrier, and a new side door........all where the cargo area is currently located.

At first I planned to locate all these things inside the storage bin, but weight is a huge factor, and it looks as if I would use up all the space anyhow. So......the plan is to sit and think a bit more, and then maybe drop it off, and find someone locally that wants it.

What do you all think?

browncrown · 01-05-2010, 04:19 PM

The thing about converting schoolies is sometimes you have to work around things you can't change, but that just makes it more fun to figure it out in the end. My skoolie has a midship engines, so holding tanks and plumbing was a real challenge, but you will get it. I think you need to go with your gut and build it as you need to...because as you said, weight will be a big factor when all is said and done. After many trials and error, I don' think there is a wrong way, it just ends up being what you want it to be...and you will have a smile on your face in the end

newbusser · 02-11-2010, 09:25 PM

Yes, I am very happy with her. If i had to do it over, I might have looked at more of the front engine models. The only reason I say this is so i would have more options for the back. (back porch...this type of thing). But then again, I drive a transit bus for a living, and the ones with rear engine are a lot better to drive in traffic than the fronts, and seem to be a lot quieter....just my opinion, don't want any of you fronties showing up on my lawn with torch's and pitchforks.

I need to pick some brains......
I have lucked into a scrapyard with the twin sister to my ride, except it has an air ride drivers seat and factory tinted windows. (at least i think they are factory) they will sell anything i want off this jewel for per pound type prices!

SCORE!!!!!

What type of sealer should I use to re-seal the frames to my holes? I saw it somewhere here, but am still fairly search ignorant, so I just ask.

Thanks in advance.

Scott

bus-ted · 02-11-2010, 09:37 PM

I think SIKA products are top notch, personally. Off the top of my head I cant remember the actual products designation (they seem to gear their products mainly towards aspects of finishing concrete, but definitely not exclusively). Someone posted not too long ago regarding one of there adhesives...

newbusser · 03-01-2010, 11:27 PM

where do you go to buy the red rosin paper?

I have searched lowes and home depo with no results.

thanks

Seeria · 03-02-2010, 08:30 AM

Lowes has it for um $11 bucks a roll (or 12, I forget)

paul iossi · 03-02-2010, 09:06 AM

any good butyl rubber sealant will work good for the windows, it should be available either as a tape or in a caulking gun sized tube, try the auto paint or glass suppliers in your area.

Diesel Dan · 03-02-2010, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smitty

Quote:

Originally Posted by newbusser

where do you go to buy the red rosin paper?

I have searched lowes and home depo with no results.

thanks

I'm sure both would carry it, check in the flooring or roofing materials.

Smitty

I think this must vary by location. Here in Austin, TX Home Depot carries it, but not Lowes. At HD it's located in the paint department. I've found that some employees have just never heard of it so they tell you they don't have it.

Edit: now that Smitty mentioned flooring, I think the flooring dept was right next to the paint dept, so it may have been in some intermediary aisle between the two, or perhaps it was in flooring.

newbusser · 03-02-2010, 10:28 PM

Hay Smitty...what do you think of this stuff:
http://www.lowes.com/pd_70989-27977-641 ... oryDisplay

for over the metal of the floor and under the insulation.

newbusser · 03-03-2010, 11:08 PM

not worried about the cost so much as what will work the best here in rainy western washington.

think i will go with the felt followed by 1/4 inch insulation and tongue and groove flooring topped off with either vinyl or hardwood composite for the final flooring.

newbusser · 05-28-2010, 11:02 PM

Finally!!! FREAKING FINALLY!!!!!!

I Figured out how to change my registration from school bus to Motor home. Cost me a little time and $48 total. I did not license or tab it yet,so I did not have to provide proof of insurance. I am a long way from putting it on the road as health issues have again reared their ugly head, ( might have just waited too long in life to start this

) but i have my 15 year old and a few others are going to gang up on it this summer and help me make some serious progress.

I did not have to insure it as I am not putting it on the road yet
Basically you need to contact your local WSP inspection station, I went to Shelton in Mason county, and ask them about this RCW 46.04.305. This says what the state needs permanently mounted to consider it a motor home instead of a school bus. Make sure you have a current weight slip on your vehicle to show them, and ask if it is true that because it is under 26,001 pounds, it does not need to be inspected for a change of class.

If anyone is considering following my lead, shoot me a message or e-mail and i will what else you need to do to complete this with the minimum of hassle and cost. Nothing I did is against the law, and I never lied to anyone to do it, but it is kindof hazy at best. I would suggest everyone in Washington State get this done as soon as possible as I don't know how long this loop hole will remain open.

Keep the faith brothers and sisters!

newbusser · 05-29-2010, 12:01 AM

on it's way

CAMO-MONSTER · 07-18-2010, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by newbusser

Finally!!! FREAKING FINALLY!!!!!!

I Figured out how to change my registration from school bus to Motor home. Cost me a little time and $48 total. I did not license or tab it yet,so I did not have to provide proof of insurance. I am a long way from putting it on the road as health issues have again reared their ugly head, ( might have just waited too long in life to start this

) but i have my 15 year old and a few others are going to gang up on it this summer and help me make some serious progress.

I did not have to insure it as I am not putting it on the road yet
Basically you need to contact your local WSP inspection station, I went to Shelton in Mason county, and ask them about this RCW 46.04.305. This says what the state needs permanently mounted to consider it a motor home instead of a school bus. Make sure you have a current weight slip on your vehicle to show them, and ask if it is true that because it is under 26,001 pounds, it does not need to be inspected for a change of class.

If anyone is considering following my lead, shoot me a message or e-mail and i will what else you need to do to complete this with the minimum of hassle and cost. Nothing I did is against the law, and I never lied to anyone to do it, but it is kindof hazy at best. I would suggest everyone in Washington State get this done as soon as possible as I don't know how long this loop hole will remain open.

Keep the faith brothers and sisters!

umm i did not have to get ahold of wsp all i did was went down the are court house and transfred it got my plates and tabs and wammo it's a rv for about $150. but my bus was already a rv though! just was from montana.

newbusser · 05-29-2011, 08:33 PM

After taking a year off, we are again working on the bird.

trying to finish cleaning up floor so we can put new stuff down.

Will post some pics as soon as i get them sized.

newbusser · 06-03-2011, 01:54 PM

A word to the wise for everyone just starting out:

Once you start the de-construction, do whatever it takes to finish it as soon as possible! That is the hardest part to re-start if you have to stop in the middle.
Had to take a lot of time outs for medicals, and some for laziness.

After two years, off and on, all flooring out and most of new is in.

Still need a lot of cleaning, repair bad spots, and install subflooring.

What fun.

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