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Old 09-13-2016, 03:28 PM   #11
Mini-Skoolie
 
Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
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Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
This weekend we started to fill the holes in the floor and prepare for the floor insulation and osb subfloor.

We decided to use pennies to fill the holes and use some epoxy style glue to hold them down. We started with Locktite Interior glue which is clear and dried well. We ran out and had to use a some gorilla glue for the tail end of the project as we ran out.

There are about 130 pennies glued face up on our floor (plenty of joke references to be had). We originally wanted to use ann with dates that had meaning to us but that was a lot of work and time didnt permit.



Next we started with the flooring. We plan to use OSB on top of some rigid r5.0 insulation. I did this same flooring in my man cave and love it. Feels so much better to stand on already. We are going to put left over deck stain on the OSB to seal it and also over engineer with extra vapor barier but I figure $20 worth of insurance now is worth more later should there be an issue. This weekend we will seal the OSB, run 3/4 inch thin PVC under the OSB for a wire and water chase, and trim the OSB for expansion to finish the job. What you see currently is us dry fitting.



We did have issues with the seat rail and ended up the the idea to bring the floor in then run it under the seat rail but above the wheel well. Its barely enough room but can be done.

Hope to have all of this floor in this weekend with the wire and water line chases in place. I will post more of that after this weekend then it's off to the side insulation panels.
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Old 09-27-2016, 11:15 AM   #12
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 67
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Amtran
Chassis: Gensis
The previous weekend I worked on getting the floor finished and making some tweaks. Here is the latest progress. Feel free to ask any questions.

After getting the dry run tested I thought about how it could be made better. One of the issues I wanted to address is what happens if or maybe when water gets in? I used some old deck sealer / stain and painted all of the osb all the way around before putting it in. This took about a day to complete but was also being done as the subfloor was cut to shape.

I then used some thin walled PVC and cut notches in the pipe for where the cables exit to deal with the curve. I used 12awg for power and other lines although after discussing with a local mobile repair guy I will be changing to cabled 14 or 16 gauge for lighting and 12v runs. Should help a bit. I made sure to include 3 conduits from where my distribution will be located. One of the conduits is still empty for future growth. I also used duct tape to add a bit of padding and help with vibration noise. Along with power I ran PEX from where my water tank will be under my bed to the kitchen area and also hot back from the kitchen area to the bathroom area.






Before putting in the floor I had to deal with a leak. The doors were flat with the base of the bus so if water got through the door seal.. or better yet, as it always got in i had to do something. The original floor was raised and had a door trim piece. It wasnt water tight by any stretch and accounted for most of the water that got in. I had to figure out a way to stop water from running along the floor and under the insulation since the doors leaked. I ended up using flexable flashing. This stuff worked great. I was able to lay it on the door seal and up on the insualtion creating an inch tall lip where the water could not flow in and should stop all water leaks. I will still get a metal trim piece but it will be more for looks and protection of the flashing than anything else.



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Old 09-27-2016, 01:33 PM   #13
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Penny story.

My room mate looked at a project I was working on and noticed some pennies that I had drilled through the center and used as washers (I didn't have the right size).

Roomy: "Are those pennies?"

Me: "Yes."

Roomy: "Why?.

Me: "Because they're cheap and plentiful."

Roomy: "Oh really, how much are they?"

End of penny story.
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Old 09-27-2016, 06:34 PM   #14
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Please tell me she wasn't blonde!
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Old 09-27-2016, 09:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EastCoastCB View Post
I don't know how they got around the "we do not insure converted school buses" part of Progressive's legal fine print. Congrats, hope it lasts!
I got my insurance through progressive also. I did the same thing, went to our local agent. We had to call progressive because the vin# was not coming up correctly. But finally they got it corrected and gave me my copy and proof.
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Old 03-20-2017, 03:40 PM   #16
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 67
Year: 1995
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Chassis: Gensis
Need advice on how to get going again.

Had a wicked winter with the most snow fall in like 20 years. Needless to say I dont work on the bus in the winter. Any advice to getting started again? I pull up and I step inside my bus and it feels so good but I just dont have the drive to start in on it at the moment. Started looking at house projects. Maybe when the sun is shining that will be the motivation? Any advice to getting motivated after stopping for the winter?

I think the part that has me most hesitant is the elecritcal i chose to use is not strand and attaching the 2x4s to the walls are a serious PITA. I may regret asking but any thought on the wiring im using?

Oh forgot to mention that she is now titled as a Custome Motorhome. The temptation to drive to the local 7-11 for a slurpy last year was rough!
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Old 05-01-2017, 04:30 PM   #17
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Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Central Oregon
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Update:
Decided against putting in a shower for a few reasons. This has been a huge hang up for my design. The thought is since our bus is more of a vaction camper we will be boondocking for less than a week at a time and most of the time we would be staying with friends or at camp grounds. We will be placing an outdoor shower to the side of the bus.

Since we are putting in a larger sink we will make sure we have a faucet with the hosed handle and could wash our hair in the sink if needed. We suspect the space will be used little as a shower but as storage / closet / pantry it would be more valuable.

A friend just remodeled his brand new house and hooked me up with perfect beautiful cabinets that we will use in the kitched with one wide drawer that will now be used where the shower was gonna be.

Also finished putting the flooring that goes under the bed. Since the water tank and plumbing will be there I wanted it to be more water resistant and used the Allure vinyl flooring from HD. Worked and looks great and caught it on clerance.

By not going for a shower it made things much simpler. No longer need my water and grey tanks because I will need less water and can collect directly under the sink instead of needing to run plumbing through the floor and mount the grey water tank. We will make the cabinet/closet space the same size as the shower so in the future if we need it we can simply rip out the cabinet and put in a shower.

Happy I just saved some money and project time! I'll post some pictures later tonight or so.

Any suggestions for 25ish gallon water tanks that arent $250? Hoping to be under 20inches tall or so.
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Old 05-01-2017, 05:34 PM   #18
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Have you considered using a food grade barrel?
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Old 05-02-2017, 10:19 AM   #19
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Ya unfortunately they appear to need to be stood up and would be too tall if placed on its side under a bed. I'm afraid my only option is to buy one of those expensive units.
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Old 05-02-2017, 12:45 PM   #20
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Barrels can lay down easily if you build a small cradle for it. It is kind of a waste of space to use a round barrel, but they do fit easily in a basement storage compartment.
I secure my water barrel in a standing position. They're nearly the perfect height for a countertop.
At $10 or $15 each, I'll put up with a little inconvenience.
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