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Old 04-20-2006, 09:20 PM   #41
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I got a free class V used hitch off a Ford Superduty & it's just an inch or 2 too wide to fit my frame. I was thinking of using some thick angle iron to "widen" the frame a little & then mount the hitch to that.

Any other ideas on how to make a hitch narrower to fit a bus frame? I'd rather not buy another hitch when I already got a good one.
My Old Bus :(
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Old 04-21-2006, 02:44 AM   #42
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Re: wish I had thought of your drill press method

Originally Posted by trentet
... called BOELUBE developed by Boeing ....
I worked in a machine shop a decade ago, and we used Boelube alot.
It's excellent stuff. Boeing sold it off to another company, and it's made by Orelube now.
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Old 05-03-2006, 12:24 PM   #43
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Finished the Dinette/Bed this past weekend . . .

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Old 05-03-2006, 12:44 PM   #44
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Nice, it reminds me of my dinette/bed. Did you use the stock bus seat frames for those benches?
View my 1972 Ward: Topic from the Build : The Picture Gallery
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Old 05-03-2006, 12:49 PM   #45
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Yes, though I extended them a bit by welding on a part of another bench.

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Old 05-22-2006, 10:14 AM   #46
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Made some progress over the weekend and updated some pages - look for the ones dated May 22, 2006.


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Old 05-22-2006, 07:14 PM   #47
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Originally Posted by Firearm
Check L&M In Cloquet or a different farm and fleet if you have one in your area. They always have a great assortment of receivers for different vehicles.
I work at L&M in Virginia It appears that a reciever for a Ford Ranger is the correct size and even comes in the class 3 rating. Unfortunately it's still $117 even after my discount........

The nice thing about working there though is that I can special order just about anything I want or need for the bus. I just prefer to scrounge.

I'm still trying to work out exactly how to properly tow my truck. The RF1A gear driven Toyota transfer case doesn't have a true neutral...what that means is that with the transfer case in neutral, the front and rear dirveshafts are still connected. I figure I will just tow in 2-high, tranny nuetral or pull the rear driveshaft. Obviously I will leave the front hubs unlocked. My other big issue is with height. I did a solid axle swap on the truck last year so it now rides about 9 inches higher than stock. I wasn't going for height, but rather suspension flex....of course a flexible suspension needs somewhere to stuff those wheels so a higher ride height is a must.

I currently run bias play 34x10.5x15 Super Swamper LTB's on it. While they are GREAT offroad tires, their on road handling leaves something to be desired (33 ounces out of balance on the worst of them ) On top of that, I have a high steet full crossover steering setup. It's heavy on the beef and light on the steering feel....and makes it impossible to attach a steering dampener without running the risk of adding a window to my oil pan.

Here is my plan then....I will attach the tow bar brackets to the huge Sky Offroad spring hanger/crossmember in the front. When I go somewhere I will mount up a set of 235-75R15's. They might look like roller skate wheels on it, but it beats chewing up an expensive set of tires. I think I will also put a temporary steering dampener on it of some type since I highly doubt highway travel will use up my 16 inches of front suspension travel. Do you have any other thoughts on towing that Toyota? I kind of consider myself a Toyota truck guru, but I'm hardly an experienced flat tower. I usually prefer to drive the truck (like to the Pacific Ocean and back last August....on those Super Swampers the whole way )

BTW....props on the dinette, Jake. I get more and more jealous with every one of your posts
Skooling state at a time...
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