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Old 04-09-2016, 08:30 PM   #141
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Cool

Hey Rhombus,

you are still in the construction phase, so nothing is lost - yet!

For the doubts regarding your cooling air flow - have a look at this site:

AutoSpeed - Technology, Efficiency, Performance

Somewhere in there are all the details how to measure your low and high pressure areas!!

Read through this:

AutoSpeed - Siting Cold Air Intakes
AutoSpeed - Eliminating Negative Boost - Part 5
AutoSpeed - We Have a Record!
AutoSpeed - Undertrays, Spoiler & Bonnet Vents, Part 3
AutoSpeed - Building and Testing an Airbox

[...if the posted article is one of a series, the other parts are usually mentioned in the article or search for it on his site! I have a load of the mentioned Magnehelic pressure gauges myself - you find them on ebay for REALLY cheap, just make sure you get the right measuring range!]

WARNING!! ....the above mentioned site is ADDICTIVE!! You might end up NOT doing much on your bus for a while!

He has a lot of mechanical, electrical, electronic stuff there - mostly DIY car improvements beyond what you imagine - ALL of this can be scaled up to buses!


Also - when it comes to cooling airflow - there are a few EXCELLENT books out there about Fluid dynamic cooling - maybe your local library still has copies.
Most of them are full with formulas - don't worry, just read a LITTLE into the text and look at the illustrations and you get enough idea of it all! You mostly DON'T need the formulas as you only will copy "as best as you can" anyway - with your available space.
But I can tell you, you WILL/would make HUGE improvements over the OEM design, by just folling the very basic design rules from these books! It seems the manufacturers don't give a damn about this and just replace smart design with bigger radiators and bigger fans!

A big fan can eat TONS of power - 40-50 hp is nothing going into the fan only!
So if you can reduce the need for the fan running - you start to safe fuel immediately!

Just doing a little research - applying the learned common sense and maybe you have a chance to run a few pressure tests (google: autospeed.com, Magnehelic) on some running bus (maybe your friendly neighborhood schoolbus mechanics takes you along on a test drive and lets you stick a few 1/4" clear tubing on it.....to measure where you get what pressure at what speed....)


Again - WARNING - autospeed.com is seriously addictive to DIYers!!

Looking again at your new Intercooler-auxiliary-"intakes" I get more and more the feeling they actually will pull the air out at this location. You see, the negative scoops are rather large compared to the hoses - this is a rather big area creating a negative pressure.

If you are decided to stick with this location - look up NACA duct intake!!
BUT - beware of "False NACA ducts" - you need to build it correctly or it won't work!!
There plenty of Aftermarket plastic crap out there for looks only, possibly even harming performance. IF built correctly they DO work - key is: built them correctly!!

Enjoying your thread a lot!

thjakits

PS: What do you mean you don't have the skills for a roof raise and/or slide-outs?!!
Of course you do!!

Have a look at:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/th...-bus-9394.html

and of course Vlad's MACHINE!!

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/98...outs-9728.html

[Although Vlad seem to be MIA, I am sure he will be back eventually...]

Also this one is a good one:

http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/3-...ona-12833.html

"Raising the Roof" is really not a big deal anymore, more like becoming the rule - and for a MAD MAX, man!! Think it over!
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Old 04-10-2016, 08:47 AM   #142
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Pretty awesome, thjakits!

It's definitely not too late to look at the engine air intake since that's what my current project it. The roof raise I'm going to pass on since the windows panels are in place and would take some serious effort to remove. That will have to wait for another bus. I want to keep my center of gravity pretty low incase I want to practice some bootlegger reverse (J-turn) moves on wet pavement ;)

As far as the air intake goes, for now I will just connect everything to its stock location, but I already have a new air filter system that should flow more, as well as improvements to the turbo system, such as all aluminum pipe, a pre-intercooler heat sink, and smoother and fewer bends throughout the ait intake stream. When the new filter system is at near max restriction, it will still flow the recommended amount specified by Caterpillar.

I am definitely going to be reading all about negative boost to start with! Thanks for the great info!
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Old 04-10-2016, 11:48 AM   #143
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I will line up to see those bootlegger reverse J-turns, even on wet pavement.
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Old 04-10-2016, 12:14 PM   #144
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Measuring and cutting the aluminum tube pieces to be welded later:

That assembly is from the turbo to the intercooler with a heat sink intermediate that will hopefully help drop the temperature faster than just straight pipe. The bends are more gradual, with radii increases of at least 1/2" over the stock pipe.

The old one was made of steel and so badly rusted, that when I was cleaning it, I discovered 3 holes where it had rusted through.
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Old 04-10-2016, 06:58 PM   #145
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Nice! And I love the idea of the extra cooling from the heat sink. Anyone who has ever raced two-stroke engines appreciates the extra power that nice, cool, "fat" air brings out of a motor.
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Old 04-22-2016, 12:54 PM   #146
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A lot of things going on but unfinished, so all I can show is the battery box.

This is the box stripped, rust treated, primered and underbody coated. I removed the tray and the sliders which, in addition to saving a little weight, gave a little more room.


Next up was to devise a way to hold the batteries down. I picked up some trays and some gate locking hardware, measured and bolted them in. I capped the original holes for the cables, drilled new ones, used some railroad air hose gaskets for grommets, had new, shorter 3/0 cables made and here's how it looks:


I plan on building a little toolbox or similar locked storage bay in the unused portion on the right. I'll put road flares, jumper cables and various battery maintenance things in there.

I'm still working on things in the engine bay, and some of the parts I need are taking a while to acquire. The main categories are:

Air intake:
- measure, fit, cut, weld the aluminum tubing from the intercooler to the intake manifold
- wait for the silicone 6" to 5" reducer to connect the Donaldson air cleaner to the original air intake tube (May 13th or so)
- once the reducer is received, then a lot of measuring and fabricating to position and mount the air cleaner

Cooling system
:
- new silicone hoses everywhere, replacing metal tubing (lots of measuring)
- refill with coolant
- finish shroud-to-fan isolation (a little too close in some places)
- fabricate lower radiator splash guard with integrated safety grill mount (the original one can be crumbled by hand)

Transmission:
- tighten new hoses
- fill system with Castrol Transynd

Engine Bay:
- select and install bay lighting (might get creative here)
- finish scraping and treating frame
- ground bay door to body
- replace/refab posts on air heater solenoid
- select and drill route for rear lighting wiring (going to fill original channels used with insulation)
- new hydraulic spring for bay door - installed! (no more 2 by 4 propping it up)
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Old 05-15-2016, 04:12 PM   #147
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Almost done with the engine bay. The turbo-to-intercooler pipe is all welded up and installed. 3" aluminum with inline heat sink. Unfortunately, that heat sink isn't going to get any real air flow over it, but it's still better than a straight tube in my opinion, and looks pretty cool too.


It sits right behind the coolant line, which I don't like, but that's how it was from the factory. I did my best to route the coolant hose a bit further away, but there's only so far I can go. The cooling system is 99% done. I just need to find a way to mount the filler tube back to its original location. The bracket had long since rusted away when I first picked up the bus. All coolant tubing is high temp silicone and all clamps are stainless steel, as well as any coolant joiners.


The Donaldson air cleaner is mounted temporarily so I can make some measurements for the intake box. I'll want to smoothe out the passage from the rear sidewall as well, since the original is just a caulked mess over jagged pieces of metal and rivets.







The engine isn't going to get painted because I didn't touch it. Hopefully I won't have to. I decided that I can do the exhaust since I'm back here instead of taking it to a shop a few months down the road when it's up and running. I selected an Aero turbine 4040 muffler. It's all stainless and a lot of people in the diesel pickup world really like them. The bus's exhaust pipe is 4" so that's why I went with the 4040.


It's a straight-through design that channels some of the exhaust flow to the perimeter and feeds it back in a swirling pattern that's suppoed to help with exhaust scavenging.


I'm having a 2 into 1 merge collector fabricated out of stainless steel that I'll run backwards to split the exhaust into two 3 inch outlets.

I wanted to do a through-body exhaust, but all of the places on line that make the body plates want well over $200 for them. I searched and searched and ended up with this:


These are heavy gauge garbage disposal sink flanges. The hole allows a near pefect fit for 3" tubing and they are stainless steel. $18 a piece. I'm thinking I'll drill some holes, run some bolts and call it good.

I still have to finished the lower intercooler-to-intake tubing, secure some parts of the wiring harness, fab the intake box, install engine bay lighting, fill with coolant and transmission fluid and I'm done.

Transmission fluid: Castrol Trans-Synd
Engine coolant: Shell Rotella Ultra ELC
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Old 05-25-2016, 11:49 PM   #148
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Subbing. Great build so far.
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Old 05-26-2016, 12:52 AM   #149
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LOVE the sink flanges!
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Old 06-09-2016, 12:13 PM   #150
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Too many things at once. Here's what I have that's new:

I finalized the design of the "apocalypse fridge" :

The background is antique pewter paint with some hammered copper and rust paint splattered to give the look of an old steel box. The handle is made from braided stainless water line, connected by a couple of U bolts to battery cable ends for a side-terminal battery. That is then bolted to a stool leg plate. The vents are stainless boat vents. This is just the freezer door. The whole fride will be similar in appearance. I'd like to work some kind of lighting into it but not really sure how I would do that. I also haven't figured out how to paint the door seals, since they flex and having a pure white seal is just goin to stick out too much. Maybe some flexible rubber paint will do.

When I was working in this area of the bus, I noticed some rust that penetrated the body, so I removed the rub rail. It too was rusted through. This panel is "medicore." In keeping with how I am patching all holes and spots, I will frankenstein a piece over it after cutting out the bad material.


Here is the end result, also showing the through-body exhaust.


Speaking of the exhaust, all that's left to do is wait for the stainless clamps to arrive for the flex pipe, and raise and hang the muffler and splitter.

Two different sized rivets, stainless cap screws, and the panel is backed with 3M VHB tape.





In this next picture, you can see the muffler and splitter need to be raised a little so the path doesn't turn upward so much:


Also on the way is an engine bay led lighting system. I really wanted something simple, like just orange, but I like the opportunity to do certain special effects, such as making it look like there's a fire or an electrical storm inside the bay.

I still need to make one last bend in the intercooler tubing to finish that system off and I still need to fab the air receiving box which I have been avoiding.
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