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Old 02-28-2016, 12:46 PM   #81
Skoolie
 
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: South Dakota
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Year: 2002
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freightliner HDX
Engine: CAT 3126B250
Rated Cap: 84
I can't just do half of the engine bay and leave the other half, especially since that's where the power distribution happens before going to the front of the bus.

Peacefully assembled, unaware of the tools gathering nearby:


Not so peacefully disassembled:


Sorting out the power distribution box and removing it for painting, new hardware and wire connections:


And finally, everything is out of the way so I can treat, paint and underbody coat this rusty mess:


Underneath this area is where the stock muffler was. WAS. On top of the ladders was a 18ga plate and the big cyclopac was there. This area will remain somewhat unobstructed when I'm done, allowing better exit airflow for the engine and a space to put anything I need a space for. I can't think of anything right now.

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Old 02-28-2016, 06:34 PM   #82
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On your Power Distribution Box, please make note of which wires I can hook an Hour Meter and a Volt Meter to. I'm surprised that Thomas didn't install those back there in the first place.
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:43 PM   #83
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Me too, squid. The box has knockouts for like 6 gauges and all I got was an oil pressure gauge.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:55 PM   #84
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Hey, Squid, been looking into the gauges and seeing how they could be wired.

Hour meter: The easy way would be to simply run the feed from an ignition wire and the meter would count the hours that the ignition was on, regardless if the motor is running or not. Newer Massy-Ferguson tractors handle theirs this way. The hard way is beyond me or what I could find, but would measure the engine RPM and have a baseline of, let's say, 1500 rpm. Less rpm = less time, more rpm = more time. I have no idea how that would work. I plan on going with the ignition wire route.

Voltmeter: Unless you mean measuring the instantaneous output of the alternator, any of the hot lines should suffice for the voltmeter. The trick here would be to only measure it when a switch is flipped, so you don't drain the battery. The voltage measured here would be before any of the chassis or body systems.

Lighting for all of these could be easily tied into the bay light switch. If your panel is like mine, you should have the light and ignition switches already there.

I just took a look at the wiring diagram for the HD model. It had an oil pressure, coolant temp and voltmeter. The ignition switch on the panel is a primary interrupt to prevent someone from energizing the circuit up front while you are working in the back, so wiring the hourmeter off of that line isn't the way to go. I'll have to find a post-key line. Since my whole system is not function right now, it'll be a while.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:46 PM   #85
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Sometimes, I absolutely have to start the beastie in back. It sure would be nice to see a voltmeter back there. I'd also like a better oil pressure gage, because mine doesn't work at all.

I suppose I could ask the local dealer (all Freightshaker dealers handle Thomas buses). I'm also going to ask how to delete the inside AC. I can use the floor penetrations for water, grey and propane.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:57 PM   #86
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This is from the service manual for the HD model:

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Old 03-06-2016, 03:01 PM   #87
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Methinks I may be able to do some damage with that diagram. Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:00 PM   #88
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If you can't get the voltmeter in the engine compartment t work, or if it's not there despite the claims of the documentation, you could always get a pocket digital multimeter from Harbor Fright for $3. Dedicate it to the one task.
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:49 PM   #89
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How about this?

Robot Check

Or even,

Robot Check

Dunno what a robot check is or if it's the right size, but you could adapt it I'm sure.

-Doc
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:31 PM   #90
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Oh, nm, I thought you said robot "chick." My bus needs one for sure.
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:36 PM   #91
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RHOMBUS View Post


Oh, nm, I thought you said robot "chick." My bus needs one for sure.
In that case, Ill take 2!
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Old 03-09-2016, 02:30 AM   #92
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lol
Quote:
Originally Posted by RHOMBUS View Post


Oh, nm, I thought you said robot "chick." My bus needs one for sure.
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Old 03-09-2016, 05:15 PM   #93
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Why would I purchase ANYTHING from Harbor-fart, especially when I have a Fluke?
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Old 03-10-2016, 07:57 PM   #94
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CaptSquid View Post
Why would I purchase ANYTHING from Harbor-fart, especially when I have a Fluke?
I wouldn't permanently install a fluke into the engine bay...... just my preference.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:01 PM   #95
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Just a few more screws to attach the rub rail and the ducted air for the interooler is DONE!





Made with the following products:
- closet flange x4
- 4" ABS 90 degree curb elbow x2
- roof flashing vent x2
- 4" aluminum flexible dryer hose ~ 1 foot
- 4.5" stainless steel pipe clamp x8
- 4" rubber pipe joiner x4
- 1/4" screen
- 1/8" aluminum rivets x16
and the random screws and metal you see in the pictures.
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:46 PM   #96
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NICE! But, what's an INTEROOLER? (tongue in cheek)
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Old 03-27-2016, 06:59 PM   #97
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Very nice!
Where did you get the pieces that riveted to the bus, the funnel looking pockets?
Eric
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Old 03-27-2016, 07:52 PM   #98
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Those funnels are roof flashing pieces for vent pipes similar to the following but a larger size:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Oatey-The...1917/203304091

I had a shop laser cut the metal piece that the funnels sit behind.

And squid, an interooler is a device that gives you a deep down "ooooooo!" feeling when it's working properly ;)
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Old 03-28-2016, 10:31 AM   #99
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Great idea! Thank you
Eric
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Old 03-28-2016, 12:57 PM   #100
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Are these "Intakes" or the "Exits"?

thjakits
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