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Old 10-24-2015, 04:01 PM   #61
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I see that $hit almost everyday at the bus shop.

Look at how pathetic that was built. How small the intercooler is.

A Subaru car has a bigger intercooler than that bus.

I feel that the intercooler should be mounted on the roof like a wing. It would perform much better.
With all that heat from the rad, the intercooler is not helping one bit. You would be better off bypassing it.

My bus will be relocating the inter cooler to the opposite side as the rad. Both sides will pull air into the engine bay. I will have vents cut into the rear hatch. All air will flow out the rear, helping break the dust suction that currently happens.

That's how they should have been built from the start.

Nat
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Old 10-24-2015, 04:27 PM   #62
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Hey, Nat, by "the other side," do you mean the passenger side? I don't like the route the air has to take to get into the engine right now:

Intake, passenger side
Over the engine to the turbo
Across to the top of the intercooler
Down through and underneath the bus, right by the exhaust and transmission
Then finally back to the start on the passenger side for the intake
through the engine to the driver's side, back under the bus and engine to exit on the passenger side.

I'd love to reroute all of that but don't really know where everything would go.

I thought the intercooler was pretty big, but I know nothing about turbos.

How would you draw air through the intercooler? I'm having a hard time visualizing it.
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Old 10-26-2015, 11:21 AM   #63
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Radiator and intercooler at the shop. The guy said he could add a few more rows to the radiator core for a couple hundred bucks, so that sounds good to me. I was hoping the intercooler would be just fine, but when he submerged it into the test tank, it looked like a spa, so yeah. It will have to get shipped out unless he can find one elsewhere. I thought the bus had decent power for all I know, and the fuel mileage was about 7-8mpg coming back from Chicago, so with an actual sealed intercooler, it should be mo'better.

I'll be focussing on cleaning the parts of the engine compartment I can get to and all of the brackets from this micro-adventure. That should keep me busy until it's all ready to be put back in.

I might actually get some sleep today!
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:23 PM   #64
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By the other side, yes I mean mounting the intercooler on the passenger side of the engine bay.

On my bus I will be using electric fans on the intercooler. At idle they will shut down. The fans will only pull air threw the intercooler when diving down the road with the turbo at full spool.

This may be to much work for most to do. It requires changing all the 3 inch intake plumbing, making mounts for the intercooler on the other side, and wiring in the new fans. Also cutting / stamping louvers in the rear hatch is expensive and time consuming.

Looking good. I look forward to more pics.

Nat
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Old 10-29-2015, 12:53 PM   #65
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Well, since I discovered I need a new intercooler intake tube anyway, maybe I can find a way to reroute everything now while the radiator and such is in the shop.
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Old 11-11-2015, 02:16 PM   #66
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Got the radiator and intercooler back. Here's the radiator before:

3 cores and lots of decay. Just a total mess.

Here it is now back at my shop:

4 cores and ready to be painted. The intercooler is already painted because it was shipped out to be rebuilt. No pics of that right now since I'm leaving it in the box until I'm ready to put it in. I've been scraping and treating rust in the engine compartment where all of this will go, then priming and undercoating. I may as well do what I can while I have access to the area. I might also cut out the existing battery box and put in a new one. I'm not sure I like the current location: right behind the rear tire. There just feels like there's so much weight there already, not to mention the chance for future corrosion. I might turn that space into some kind of storage. Not really sure right now.

I got several long pieces of 14ga sheet steel bent into an L so I could cut my own brackets to further secure the window covers top and bottom. I have cut 56 so far and it's just slow going.

They are screwed into the old window sill in 2 places, somewhat for extra strength, but mostly because if I use just one screw, the bracket rotates and I can't stop it.

Those screws are stainless steel and I have to hit them hard and fast so the heads don't shear off. The back of each bracket is primed, painted, and has a layer of thick 2 sided automotive tape. The tape serves as a vibration barrier, and helps seal the screws from the outside when the window plate squishes against the bracket. Of course, the whole thing will be sealed with primer, paint, and plastidip.

I also like the effect of the extra screws.

I went through a few ideas to "industrialize" my new refrigerator that's been sitting here, not plugged in, for probably 2 months. One involved drilling 8892 holes through some adhesive rubber material to attach to the faces of the doors. I didn't like the effect so I decided to just use the plain material. I am also fabricating custom handles out of braided steel water line, battery post connectors, and mounting plates for screw-in legs used on small tables. I will trim the edges in 1" aluminum angle.


As always, it won't win any awards for "perfect execution," but I've accepted that I am not creating a showroom quality bus.

So, the fridge. I'm thinking about removing the 120v fan from the back and replacing it with the 12v squirrel cage fan that was used on the old defroster. I'd just need a relay to kick it on in place of the 120v fan when needed. The idea is to use less electricity overall, though I don't know either of the fans' ratings right now. I originally wanted to duct the exhaust from the fridge to the outside when it's hot out, and to the inside when it's cold out, but have decided that the heat difference is not worth figuring it all out. Also, I'd have to drill through the heavy plate where the wall meets the floor, and I'd rather leave that piece alone.

After the radiator and all is installed, it will be time for windows and the roof rack. Oh and a trailer hitch. I guess I should do the hitch before reinstalling the radiator.

I definitely need to log some overtime to pay for all of this. I'm trying to keep the final budget under $45,000. I'm already over 25% there.
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Old 11-12-2015, 12:59 PM   #67
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Like I always tell the newbies, stuff adds up fast.

Looking good as always.

Nat
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Old 11-12-2015, 09:21 PM   #68
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Man the radiator on my bus (1999 Thomas) was not in good shape. My intercooler is a hell of a lot bigger than yours for some reason, but is in front of the rad which is already too small. Do you have any overheating issues?
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Old 11-13-2015, 08:18 AM   #69
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Porkchop, do you have a front-engine bus? When I was getting my radiator redone, I saw several intercoolers that were the size of radiators in the shop. No, no issues with overheating, BUT my only driving experience with my bus has been from -20F to 30F on the highway. I guess I won't know until I hit the road next summer or fall.
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Old 11-13-2015, 12:34 PM   #70
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No his bus is a rear engine Cat powered.

Nat
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