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Old 02-28-2016, 12:46 PM   #81
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I can't just do half of the engine bay and leave the other half, especially since that's where the power distribution happens before going to the front of the bus.

Peacefully assembled, unaware of the tools gathering nearby:


Not so peacefully disassembled:


Sorting out the power distribution box and removing it for painting, new hardware and wire connections:


And finally, everything is out of the way so I can treat, paint and underbody coat this rusty mess:


Underneath this area is where the stock muffler was. WAS. On top of the ladders was a 18ga plate and the big cyclopac was there. This area will remain somewhat unobstructed when I'm done, allowing better exit airflow for the engine and a space to put anything I need a space for. I can't think of anything right now.
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Old 02-28-2016, 06:34 PM   #82
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On your Power Distribution Box, please make note of which wires I can hook an Hour Meter and a Volt Meter to. I'm surprised that Thomas didn't install those back there in the first place.
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Old 02-28-2016, 11:43 PM   #83
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Me too, squid. The box has knockouts for like 6 gauges and all I got was an oil pressure gauge.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:55 PM   #84
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Hey, Squid, been looking into the gauges and seeing how they could be wired.

Hour meter: The easy way would be to simply run the feed from an ignition wire and the meter would count the hours that the ignition was on, regardless if the motor is running or not. Newer Massy-Ferguson tractors handle theirs this way. The hard way is beyond me or what I could find, but would measure the engine RPM and have a baseline of, let's say, 1500 rpm. Less rpm = less time, more rpm = more time. I have no idea how that would work. I plan on going with the ignition wire route.

Voltmeter: Unless you mean measuring the instantaneous output of the alternator, any of the hot lines should suffice for the voltmeter. The trick here would be to only measure it when a switch is flipped, so you don't drain the battery. The voltage measured here would be before any of the chassis or body systems.

Lighting for all of these could be easily tied into the bay light switch. If your panel is like mine, you should have the light and ignition switches already there.

I just took a look at the wiring diagram for the HD model. It had an oil pressure, coolant temp and voltmeter. The ignition switch on the panel is a primary interrupt to prevent someone from energizing the circuit up front while you are working in the back, so wiring the hourmeter off of that line isn't the way to go. I'll have to find a post-key line. Since my whole system is not function right now, it'll be a while.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:46 PM   #85
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Sometimes, I absolutely have to start the beastie in back. It sure would be nice to see a voltmeter back there. I'd also like a better oil pressure gage, because mine doesn't work at all.

I suppose I could ask the local dealer (all Freightshaker dealers handle Thomas buses). I'm also going to ask how to delete the inside AC. I can use the floor penetrations for water, grey and propane.
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:57 PM   #86
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This is from the service manual for the HD model:

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Old 03-06-2016, 03:01 PM   #87
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Methinks I may be able to do some damage with that diagram. Thanks!
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Old 03-07-2016, 03:00 PM   #88
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If you can't get the voltmeter in the engine compartment t work, or if it's not there despite the claims of the documentation, you could always get a pocket digital multimeter from Harbor Fright for $3. Dedicate it to the one task.
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Old 03-07-2016, 05:49 PM   #89
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How about this?

Robot Check

Or even,

Robot Check

Dunno what a robot check is or if it's the right size, but you could adapt it I'm sure.

-Doc
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Old 03-07-2016, 06:31 PM   #90
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Oh, nm, I thought you said robot "chick." My bus needs one for sure.
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