Serenity - 2002 Thomas HDX

[RHOMBUS]

I'm sheeting over all of the window openings, well, except the windshield, so that I can get windows that are better insulating. I will then cut holes through the sheetmetal and mount the new windows. That's the plan anyway. Hope it works out like I envisioned it. The driver's window will be first, and will be the most expensive since it will have a "T" at the bottom so I can slide it open and closed.



I'm debating getting double pane for this window, since the windshield is right there, and is clearly single pane. I'll have to work out some kind of barrier between the driver's compartment and the rest of the bus. I'm not a fan of having a wall there, but maybe something that I can click a panel into or drag a heavy curtain across.

[Popernack]

[QUOTE=RHOMBUS;111542]Yes, I'm a Firefly fan. Yes, the name "Serenity" has probably already been used before for a skoolie project, but she IS held together by love (hahaha). And rust.

" I tell you, Zoë, we get a mechanic, get her up and running again, hire a good pilot, maybe a cook - Live like real people. A small crew - Them as feel the need to be free. Take jobs as they come. They never have to be under the heel of nobody ever again. No matter how long the arm of the Alliance might get... we'll just get ourselves a little further."

<3 Shiny!! I almost named Bad Wolf Serenity! Good to see another browncoat on here.
Keep flying brother! I hope to see you out there in the black.
Popernack

[milkmania]

I love that window and wish I could use it in my application... mine are 24" tall vertical sliders.

It works great in theory... But, when I have back half slid forward (usual position) it creates 2 layers of glass and horrible window reflection to see driver's mirror!
Especially at night, I see the passenger's headlight pat reflecting

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by RHOMBUS

I'm sheeting over all of the window openings, well, except the windshield, so that I can get windows that are better insulating. I will then cut holes through the sheetmetal and mount the new windows. That's the plan anyway. Hope it works out like I envisioned it. The driver's window will be first, and will be the most expensive since it will have a "T" at the bottom so I can slide it open and closed.



I'm debating getting double pane for this window, since the windshield is right there, and is clearly single pane. I'll have to work out some kind of barrier between the driver's compartment and the rest of the bus. I'm not a fan of having a wall there, but maybe something that I can click a panel into or drag a heavy curtain across.

I'm going with a wall behind the "cab" area.

[RHOMBUS]

The past 2 days I've been working out the wiring diagram for the body to handle the following options I want to add:

- blackout rear brake lights
- blackout all marker lights
- blackout reverse light
- manually illuminate reverse lights
- illuminate front upper white lights (separate from headlights)
- illuminate front lower lights (separate from headlights)
- illuminate blue accent side lights
- "wink" circuit for upper rear and side lights (same principle as when a semi truck flashes the trailer lights after you let it pass)
- switch to include rear amber main round marker lights as part of rear illumination (for when I just want to where legal, if anywhere)
- switch to include upper marker lights into flashing hazard circuit (the lower ones area already included by default)
- LED indicators to monitor the circuits
- switch to turn off the LED monitoring

This is what happens when I work out how to do the trailer wiring.

[family wagon]

It sounds like you just need a big array of transistors or relays at the front and at the back of the bus so that the lamps can be operated individually or in small groups, and a bit of interface logic and a microcontroller so that the various lamps can be operated by their usual function, or overridden and forced on/off regardless of e.g. the brake or headlight switches.

[RHOMBUS]

This is the schematic I just completed of what I'd like to do:


I'll put switches inline in each of three circuits going from board 4 (front power board) to board 1 (main body board) to interrupt the brake lights, all marker lights and the reverse lights. After that, it's just running a bunch of extra wires and switches to interrupt or include the lights after they leave board 1 and head to the back of the bus. I'm also doing some reconfiguring of the wiring as well.

In factory form, the "marker lights" are the front and rear triple lights at the top center of the vehicle and have their own circuit. The "clearance lights" are all of the rest of the illumination to include the parking lights and tail lights. I am splitting the lighting to "upper" and "lower" so the "wink" functionality I put in will affect the top lights all the way around except for the front.

All of the marker lights have been replaced with 3 mode lights except for the front and rear triples. These new marker can be illuminated dim (clearance), bright (blink) and colored (blue.) I also added a light on each side, midway down the bus, inline with the lower set of clearance lights that flash with the blinker.

[superduty_59]

Awesome build so far! I will be watching this one for ideas? Was a Thomas a deciding factor for you? Would you have bought a similar Blue Bird? I am looking for your exact bus but would prefer a BB but a Thomas would be fine.

[Bon Voyage]

How's the bus going? I've just picked up a 2002 Thomas HDX just the same as yours except it has the Cummins ISB 5.9 engine. Basically the same little intercooler and radiator. Had some over heating issues on the highway and it was near freezing outside.
I'm just waiting to get some inspections done for registration and I'll start pulling the seats out.

[RHOMBUS]

Just touching base with the community. Was recalled to work for the railroad again, had to leave the bus in storage behind. It's been a real struggle. Nothing further to report.

[RHOMBUS]

Moved to northern Idaho. Just got a shop space. Now the difficult part: How to ship a non-running 40 foot long bus.

[family wagon]

That's pretty far for flat tow with a chain. Just sayin'.

[RHOMBUS]

Oh, I meant actually put it on a flatbed semi truck trailer. About 1100 miles so my guess is 2200 bucks or so.

[family wagon]

Yeah, I know. That's pretty much the only way I guess. I suppose you can make the most of the situation by packing the bus as if it were a shipping container prior to loading it on a truck -- maybe a significant amount of household and shop stuff can be moved "for free" at the same time.

Keep the receipts... maybe these costs can be deducted as a job-related expense on a tax return since the move sounds like it's related to being recalled for work with the railroad.

[BartStephens]

Originally Posted by RHOMBUS

Taking a little break to clear my head. So, here's what my plans are, and aren't:

No popouts - I'm just not that skilled
No roof lift - Too lazy

Uses: 1-2 year fixed residence, cross country RV, mostly cold weather and mountains, a trip to burning man

Style: I have gone back and forth with it and so far, the best I can describe it is a Mad Max cyber punk industrial deiselpunk bus. Basically, lots of heavy looking metal, exposed conduit, bolted on panels, brushed metal, etc. A clean dirty look if that makes any sense.

Amenities:
- Full XL master bed (I don't need a queen, I'm skinny)
- Full XL couch conversion @ front
- Gas range and stove
- Double sink
- On demand hot water (unless a better option grows on me)
- Full size fridge
- Modest television
- Decent sound system
- All LED lighting, inside and out
- Under bus storage
- Safari-type roof rack
- Possible small roof deck
- Composting toilet
- Shower
- Up to 100 gal fresh water
- Up to 80 gal grey water
- Up to 600w solar array
- Up to 850Ah battery array
- Up to 80 pounds propane (debating 35pound cylinders)
- Aluminum wheels
- External shower nozzle, charging ports, etc.
- A place for the cat to hide

I know some of these wishes will be trimmed, but I believe in dreaming big first. When trying to settle on a style to go with, I have had much difficulty in making the exterior match the interior, while being both "asthetically pleasing" to privately owned RV parks, and still having the industrial feel I want. In the end, I have decided that if I have to plug in at a barn or a Walmart because no RV campsite will have me, then fine. My bus, the way I want it.

Hey man, your photos are displaying anymore. Got a new link? Love to see the project.

[Bon Voyage]

What about throwing in a seat and driving it to Idaho. Seems it might be cheaper and easier

[RHOMBUS]

It's been almost 2 years since Ive been able to work on the bus. I just got a heavy haul company to move it to my new shop in Idaho, should be with me in a week. In the meantime, my website name lapsed on its renewal and some company took it and tried to resell it to me for like 3000 a year. So, when I get the new shop squared away, I'll make a new address but I don't think the pics will show back up since you cant edit old posts as far as I know.

[RHOMBUS]

Ok, back in business, both here on the forums with a new website to host all of the pics, annnnnd, the bus has arrived intact after being towed for 1,100 miles!

Safely stored:


Now it's time for lots of unpacking, organizing and figuring out where exactly I left off. Hmmmm...

It's weird how some of the window panels have 100% surface rust and some really don't have any. *shrug* oh well, it's all getting treated and painted anyway.

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by RHOMBUS

Ok, back in business, both here on the forums with a new website to host all of the pics, annnnnd, the bus has arrived intact after being towed for 1,100 miles!

Safely stored:


Now it's time for lots of unpacking, organizing and figuring out where exactly I left off. Hmmmm...

It's weird how some of the window panels have 100% surface rust and some really don't have any. *shrug* oh well, it's all getting treated and painted anyway.

Sheet metal was stored outside and that was the top seat exposed to the elements. Those 2 pieces were cut from that sheet.

What was the tow bill, if you don't mind me asking?

[RHOMBUS]

Tow bill was ... $4600 or so. I went to uShip and it was very hit or miss for a couple weeks. Several companies asked questions but nobody bid. On the 2nd phase of bidding, 2 companies bid over $10,000 (wow) and the rest came in at 4200-4600. The 4200 and 4300 companies were all excited but never followed through to the extent of not even bothering to give me any updates for possible pickups or even not picking up the phone period.

Finally, this one company out of Phoenix, AZ came in right at the last minute with details, a schedule, and great communication.

To be honest, I was hoping for half that cost, but I've never had to move anything like this. I'm guessing the loaded weight was 23,000 pounds because I packed the whole shop into the bus.

Like everything bus-related for me, take what I expect to spend and multiply by 2. That's oddly the same pattern the rally car I'm building is following as well. Maybe it's just me.