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Old 02-13-2010, 10:44 AM   #1
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Sinclair

Fran (Sinclair) Skoolie
Family picked the name Sinclair from dino family the TV series Dinosaurs and the fact the bugger is a fossil eater, the gas stations Sinclair, etc. I've found I refer to it as a she constantly so I've renamed her to Fran Sinclair.


*** This post is updated, deleted, edited, as progress is made ****


After such a long $&%# time looking and having seen over a dozen buses in the last month, I finally found the right type, size and hopefully--good condition. Bought for less than $3k plus. I'm having it delivered to me for various reasons and it should be here April 4th. Family is excited. Me, I'm nervous I'll reserve my excitement for when it is here in one, working piece. A few weeks to figure out where to start and try to get my hands on the materials I still needed to get started. Must be ready before mid-June. Bus is International, bluebird, 30' bumper to bumper. More details once it is here.
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Old 02-14-2010, 08:31 AM   #2
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Re: Sinclair

lol OMG did your fingers fall off? I'll make you double the cheesecake now

Quote:
On refrigeration, seems like a converted (to 'fridge) chest freezer is the easiest, cheapest (by swapping thermostats)
Oooh Okay what are they, where, and how do I do that? We did a month (in the summer) of tests here to find out what was more effecient, could handle doors being opened often, etc between our frig and our chest freezer. Freezer won. Still have to test that out with it being a cold box not a freezer. I can't imagine going back to using an upright fridge, ever.

Love the rain collection idea and have a few books on it but seeing how the only non-arid place we'll be is on the Oregon coast for a few weeks...not sure how that would work out. Four of us to water, sometimes more we a friend hitches a vacation with us. Plan on doing this on the land we get eventually.

Your shower idea is what we did in the pop-up camper we took south for three months a few years ago. Used a big ole tote tub (was $3 back then, they're 6 now). It worked great. I have to confirm with state patrol here first though, 'cause I heard here I have to have a permanent setup for shower/toilet to qualify for title change. Sure be easier the tote tub way.

Think a floor can be ripped up, cleaned up, insulated and finished in a week? Only 4weeks to get it in shape enough, titled, etc, to hit the road or I end up signing a year lease again. eewww Just two adults here btw.
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Old 02-14-2010, 10:56 AM   #3
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Re: Sinclair

Can anyone give me the pros and cons to this idea, please?

On the siding, rather than removing the metal and replacing the inside insulation, how about leaving it be and putting insulation board over the length of the bus wall (not windows) then covering with a walling material (not even sure what that is called).

I understand that the inside might be rusty, the insulation inadequate. My problem is time. Once the bus is here I have maybe 4 weeks to get her in good enough shape to hit the road so time (and to some extent money) is my biggest obstacle.
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Old 02-22-2010, 06:02 PM   #4
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Re: Sinclair

About flooring... I noticed some people are laying down wood boards then setting the insulation boards inside that. Why?

Looking at radiant barrier material, I found this bit of information:
ARMA FOIL™ is a heavy duty material which is much stronger than the premuim or standard grade radiant barriers. You can't tear this with your hands! ARMA FOIL™ comes in various widths, including 16", 18", 24", 26", and 48". This listing is for 48" wide rolls.

* Size: 48 inch wide x 250 feet long
* Double Sided Radiant Barrier
* Contains 99.5% pure Aluminum
* Class A Fire Rating: 10 (ASTM E84)
* Smoke Development: 10 (ASTM E84)
* Clean and Non-Toxic
* Resists Mildew
* Perforated
* Industrial Grade (high strength poly-woven liner)
* Emittance value of .03 (Blocks 97% of Radiant Heat)
* Water Vapor Permeability: 70 g/m˛/24hr
* Tensile Strength: 80.4 lb/in
* (This is the Tensile strength of the material itself, not just the scrim)
* Mullen Burst Strength: 160 psi

This comes in perforated and non-perforated. Frankly, I'm not sure which would be best in a bus. I only know of one person that used this to line the bus, waiting on a reply to see what type they used and how it is working out.
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Old 02-24-2010, 02:07 PM   #5
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Re: Sinclair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeria
About flooring... I noticed some people are laying down wood boards then setting the insulation boards inside that. Why?
I think that is so the plywood flooring will be supported by the wood strips, rather than compressing the insulation. I didn't do it this way, but my floor insulation is only 1/4", and isn't at the top of my priority list. I'm just doing fairweather camping, and not fulltiming, so I'm not as concerned with insulation. Anyway, it seems to me that the wood strips create gaps in the insulation, since wood doesn't insulate nearly as well as polystyrene. I'm sure Smitty will have a more definitive answer.
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Old 03-02-2010, 10:52 AM   #6
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Re: Sinclair

Finally got an answer from the State Patrol here in Wisconsin. Previous attempts to get info have been met with a "we'll mail you the info when we find it" -- Yeah well, three months of trying and still no mail. I started calling each office in the state until someone had info

Wisconsin bus to RV title requires: *edited to add official info from SP*
Paint outside anything but yellow.
Remove the stop arm.
Remove crossing gate.
Remove anything that identifies the vehicle as a school bus.
Remove the red overhead stop/flashing lights. The last gent I talked to said you can't remove the lightbulb or cut wires, or even paint over it. He says the red casing has to be Removed.

I have a copy of the copy the state patrol sent me if anyone wants to see it.

Verbally, I was told to remove seats (can leave enough to hold less than 6 people said one DMV lady).
Another mentioned it has to be under 26k weight.

Given that info, I guess I'll need to pull those then put some sheet metal strips over it, seal it against rain. So, what screws do I use to do that?
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Old 03-02-2010, 03:46 PM   #7
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Re: Sinclair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Seeria
Given that info, I guess I'll need to pull those then put some sheet metal strips over it, seal it against rain. So, what screws do I use to do that?
I am actually cutting metal discs the same size as the holes and welding them in, but the other option would be to cut some sheet metal to fit over the holes, put some sealant around the holes to seal the sheet metal, and rivet them in place. Rivets will hold better and not vibrate loose while travelling down the road.
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Old 03-02-2010, 08:15 PM   #8
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Re: Sinclair

Quote:
Originally Posted by Smitty
If you can get to the back-side, remove the lights, cut a piece of sheet metal larger than the light openings (place the metal on the inside, back side of the cap), and use flathead poprivets, then mud (bondo) over it all and smooth it out.

Smitty
How do you use pop rivets and still be able to smooth out the surface? I have a hole that needs to be covered from the stop sign that is about an inch and a half that I can get to, but has too many wires near it to be able to weld it in. I thought of recessing it in with a hammer and attaching a round piece of sheet metal with rivets.
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Old 03-03-2010, 07:48 AM   #9
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Re: Sinclair

Thanks! More things to buy at Lowes today. weeee I love tool shopping!
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Old 03-03-2010, 11:42 AM   #10
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Re: Sinclair

I didn't see any answers for the question of leaving the interior metal sides alone and just insulating and framing over it. This is what I am thinking of doing. Anyone have any minus or plus for why not.
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