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Old 11-12-2014, 11:53 PM   #11
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

Those sanders are missing their aiming tubes.

There should be a tube from each of those spouts that would normally be about 8" off the ground right in front of each drive tire.
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Old 11-21-2014, 06:56 PM   #12
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

alright. getting ready to make a home depot run. the plan for tomorrow is to continue where we left off with the rust preventative and silicone plugged floor. first a vapor barrier, most likely plastic. Next 1 inch insulation board going across the floor between the small raised edges along the bottom of each wall. The floor insulation will be graded for 15 psi( should be plenty to support weight without having to screw down "floor joist"). finally plywood of an undetermined thickness will be glued with construction adhesive to the insulation board and screwed along the edges next to the walls, all the while overlapping seams between insulation boards. BOOM! pics by tomorrow night God willing
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Old 11-21-2014, 07:25 PM   #13
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

Sweet bus! Welcome to the gang! There are a bunch of us who are using the exact model you are. So there should be lots of help in here.

-Doc
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Old 11-22-2014, 10:49 PM   #14
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

a little over halfway there! should knock this out in the morning!
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Old 11-23-2014, 08:02 AM   #15
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

Very nice! I'm right there with ya, I'm removing the rubber flooring today, just finished removing the seats. Feels so good to have this project to work on! Friends are quickly learning to stay away or else they are put to work.
Fixing to grab a sixer and head out to the bus. AHHHH sunday mornings.
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:10 PM   #16
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sheet metal

this week i plan on ordering some type of sheet metal to replace 10-12 windows, depending on the final floorplan. Does anyone have any input on what type/gauge of sheet metal to use? (galvanized, hot roll, cold roll) I want to make sure whatever i choose will hold up to elements, but also paint over and match well with the rest of the bus. To me 14 gauge seems like the minimum thickness, but maybe thats still overkill. i dunno

anyways thanks for input. really loving the possibilities for this project right now
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Old 11-24-2014, 11:26 PM   #17
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

Hey guys --- best bet is to try and match your existing sheetmetal. Some are odd. Blue Bird for example specs their own steel which works out to something like 15 gauge (in between 14 and 16). Not anything one would find "off-the-shelf". I went with 16 on my last BB project. As long as you stay close you should be OK. It will minimize stresses between elements.
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Old 11-25-2014, 06:01 AM   #18
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

Yes, after working with sheets of steel for a long time, I'd say 16 would be fine. If you think that's too thin, go 14.
I'm in the middle of "rivet removal hell".
We burned the seats and rubber flooring. What a blaze!
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Old 11-25-2014, 09:33 AM   #19
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

I used satin-coat 14 or 12ga. I can't remember exactly, but I matched the thickness that Thomas used on the rest of the body. My thinking was that thicker steel would be less likely to "oil can" in the sun. So far it has worked great. Satin coat is nice since it won't rust while out in the elements without paint. Satin coat is a type of zinc coating, I think. When you get around to painting be sure to use a self-etching primer. I've been having good luck with rustoleoms product.
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Old 11-30-2014, 10:55 AM   #20
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Re: Skiddy- 1991 MVP

what is the advantage of the self etching primer?

also, originally i was dead set on using 2" foam board in my walls for insulation. then i found a pourable expanding foam option that i am leaning towards now. my question is why does nobody use the old school fiberglass batts or rolls? is water the issue or is it the better closed envelope that expanding foam gives you?
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