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Old 04-23-2016, 12:38 AM   #11
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 51
Year: 1996
Coachwork: International Thomas
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 71
Enough seats.... On to paint!!!

I do not want to walk out of the warehouse tonight without a little feeling of accomplishment.
So.... Enough seats until I get some other tools and help. Let's talk about paint!

The nose of my bus has peeling clear coat and oxidized undercoat. I took the two front mirrors off and sanded that heifer!

The clear coat stayed whitish after sanding. I'm wondering if I should sand it with a stronger grit? I'm afraid if I don't knock it off more it will just peel too after I paint.

I posted this for the 1 of 3 thread, but here again is my inspiration paint scheme:

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Old 04-23-2016, 06:55 AM   #12
Bus Nut
Scooternj's Avatar
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: EHT New Jersey
Posts: 973
Year: 2003
Coachwork: AmTran
Chassis: International 3000RE
Engine: T444E/AT545
Rated Cap: 75
Move up to a 7" angle grinder, but of course keep the 4.5" one. I started my conversion project with the smaller one and it took for ever to grind off the bolt heads. Last summer, I upgraded to a Rigid 7", zipped through them.

As for the bolts on the chair rail? An appropriately-sized socket on a 3/8" or 1/2" ratchet with extension works just fine, paired with either a matching socket on a breaker bar or a wrench. You can get most of these hand tools for cheap at your local Harbor Freight. I also recommend an impact driver and extensions, gets them out faster.
Hey! That's not an RV, that's a school bus.
Well thank you for noticing, Captain Obvious

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Old 04-23-2016, 07:17 AM   #13
Bus Geek
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Columbus Ohio
Posts: 2,572
Year: 1991
Coachwork: Carpenter
Chassis: International S3800
Engine: DT360
Rated Cap: 7 Row Handicap
what about hitting the bolts with an impact? on my last bus I took a couple seats out by going out the night before and PB-Blaster spraying all the bolts, then the next day I hit em with an air impact wrench (with the air compressor turned up to 120 PSI and then they actually unscrewed...

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Old 04-23-2016, 02:49 PM   #14
Bus Nut
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Join Date: Feb 2015
Location: North carolina
Posts: 484
Year: 1986
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Ford
Engine: Detroit 8.2
Rated Cap: 60 bodies
Don't waste a grinding wheel on the legs
Get a cheap sawzall with with some thick metal blades.
For the bolt heads in the floor use the thin blades to cut the heads off, your foot to kick the seat foot out of the way and a hammer to punch the remaining bolt through the floor.
Hang in there, keep both hands on the sawzall, both hands on the grinder and use the handle that comes with it when you can and please don't position your body behind the rotation of the grinder when you can help it because a grinder is going to grab because the metal is going to create a pinch point as you get towards the back side of the cut and unplug both when changing blades.
If you decide to use the grinder for cutting the legs you need to cut the backside first to eliminate the wheel pinch and on the front side you can leave just enough to hold until the chair rail bolts are cut then you can break the rest off.
But if you are already cutting the floor bolts and taking off the rail bolts then you can remove the seat without cutting the leg.
Might be a little more time in wrench/grinder position but it will save a step.
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Old 05-05-2016, 09:31 PM   #15
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 51
Year: 1996
Coachwork: International Thomas
Engine: DT466E
Rated Cap: 71
Finally success! Making it a family affair was the secret to success, and a combination of ratcheting out the bolts and angle grinding a few stubborn ones! Thank you Father in Law and wifie!!!

The pic only shows one row, but they were left standing in place. Now looking for scrappers in Houston to relieve me of some scrap.

Working hard on these two of three buses at the same time. One thing for sure, deconstructing buses is HARD work! Lazy people need not apply! I have to say it is certainly very satisfying .
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