Smells Like Teen Spirit: Conversion of 1999 Thomas MVP - Page 7

porkchopsandwiches · 03-03-2014, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Docsgsxr

Hey Chop,

I bought the exact year and model you have. Did you ever get that injector/oil issue resolved in your fuel?
Seems like I have a larger amount of whitish smoke than normal coming from my crank case tube and I was
wondering if I might have a similar problem with my injector(s)?

Rocking job man! I am going to start mine this summer when I get back home from New Hampshire and can't
wait!!!! (I plan on using a few of your ideas. I think the external soft white led's are a great idea!)

-Doc

Sweet! Other than the shoddy, horrible electrical work done by Thomas / MCPS, they're pretty good buses. WMKbailey has the same one too, as well as ThePimentals. WMKbailey and I worked together in the fall mostly for demolition, and we found rust in similar areas, around the rear wheel wells, where salt / water would be kicked up in large quantities. Not much otherwise, and pretty easy to fix. Where did you get it from?

The O-rings probably aren't the cause of your problem. What happens when the O-rings fail is not excessive oil burning by worn rings or turbo seals, not oil going into the intake air per se, but high pressure engine oil being pumped into the fuel supply by an internal leak. Over time / wear / lack of oil changes, the O-rings wear out and stop sealing correctly. The injectors in these buses are what is called Hydraulic [over] Electric Unit Injection, or HEUI for short. They are direct-injected. Basically, instead of using an external injection pump, like an older Cummins or DT466, and running the fuel to the injectors via metal lines, the fuel is supplied to the injectors directly, at a low pressure (just enough to circulate) through a casting in the head. The engine has a seperate high pressure oil pump (think 600-800 psi, normal oil pumps are 30-100 psi depending on temp / wear) and this super high pressure oil also flows through a casting in the head, I guess parallel to the fuel. They both lead to all 6 injectors, and then the computer gives a signal (electronically controlled engine) a valve inside the injector opens, lets the high pressure oil in, which pushes down on a mechanism and pumps the fuel in at the top of the compression stroke. HOWEVER, when the O-rings fail, these 2 fluids meet, and since the oil is at hundreds of psi and the fuel only at a few, the oil gets pumped into the fuel supply, which also has a fuel return to the tank so the pump is constantly circulating around at the same rate. So a seal fails and pumps motor oil into the fuel casting area, and that gets sent back into the tank. This causes no running issues because A) there is no cylinder pressure leak and B) motor oil burns similar to diesel, so it won't smoke and sputter because it is still burning the correct amount. The only way you will know is to take a fuel sample and it is BLACK from the oil, or if you are going through an insane amount of oil but with no leaks or smoke.

I would love if you could post a video or something of the "excessive" crankcase vapor you say you have. When did you notice this? If you started it and its like 20 degrees outside, the vapor will look like more because there is some water vapor as well (byproduct of combustion) which is like exhaling outside on a cold day, looks like smoke (or in this case oil vapor) but isn't actually. Some coming out is normal, because piston rings don't ever seal perfectly, even when brand new. This only gets worse as the engines age. What you could do is drive it around for 2-3 hours, check the oil before and after and see what the consumption is like. When I first noticed the O-ring issue was when I picked up the bus from where I bought it, with totally full oil, drove it an hour and a half to where I would keep it, and the oil barely registered on the dipstick. It had gone through 2 gallons or so in that short drive with no leaks or smoke whatsoever. If the excessive blow by on your bus is what it is, than it is just worn rings from a tired engine. Not really anything you can do except replace the engine and no way that is happening. It is possible your oil is just in need of being changed, and when oil gets old it thins out and leaks by easier. Change your oil with Shell Rotella 15W-40. Near my house they sell it buy the 5 gallon jug for $70, you will need a bit more than this. A CAT oil filter is $16. PM me for part numbers.

Quote:

Originally Posted by eyedeal.ink

Quote:

Originally Posted by porkchopsandwiches

Thanks. Like I said though, HUGE pain in the ass. I almost lost it a few times trying to line all that up between getting cut by the panels, screws not lining up and snapping them, but it is finally done. If I ever have to take them down I'm doing so with a plasma cutter

pain in the ass but well worth it in my opinion, well done.

Thanks! I hope it pays off.

LandLubber · 03-03-2014, 09:04 PM

very nice. My ceiling panels are riveted. EFFE that. very nice job.looking clean.

browncrown · 03-03-2014, 09:21 PM

Man, awesome work on the ceiling and lights!!!

porkchopsandwiches · 03-10-2014, 09:50 AM

Alright, got a ton done this weekend / last week.

First, I finished the insulation.

I thought this photo looked cool.

I put up treated 1" x 3" (dimensional 1x6 ripped in half) On the top, middle and bottom of the walls to give a wood mounting surface and to pad out the walls to where the bump is in the chair rail. I didn't want to cut this out a) because it is a lot of work and b) because it is structural and c) because it could be useful for mounting seats to. I added 1" foam board in addition to the 2" already there so some of the walls have 3" of polyiso in them for a total R value of ~18. But only in some places and I still have the leaky bus windows

Put tyvek up before the wall material as a precaution / because I had a roll of it left over.

Sizing up the 16 ga. steel patch panels for window patches, the squiggles are from a failed attempt at liquid-nailsing the steel to plywood. Didn't take.

OSB backing for patch panels, 2 layers of 7/16 OSB behind the steel. Rather than skinning over the openings like some folks do, I decided to basically make a drop-in patch for the window so if I choose, I can put them back in at some point (unlikely) and the exterior lines flow better. I patched 3 per side for 6 total.

Patches assembled and primed. I used 6 screws to hold the steel to the OSB, and there is liquid nails between each layer of OSB / metal. Then I used the OEM window hold-in brackets to secure them, and siliconed around the edges.

And the interior walls are done! This will give me something to fasten everything to, and hold the insulation and everything together. Why OSB over ply? It is $8 a sheet. I think it looks cool and for the areas that don't get covered by furniture or cabinets, I will sand and clearcoat, then trim out (eventually). Some people hate the look, but guess what, it is my bus

Next up is framing the rear bed platform, putting some foam board under that (it is over the engine bay, yay CO) and doing up the walls for the shower / bathroom, then floor foam and subfloor wood.

Thoughts / suggestions?

porkchopsandwiches · 03-10-2014, 10:09 AM

Cool.......

Thanks! I actually knocked out all that OSB in a little under 3 hours working alone. Someone must have slipped some adderall into my food. I just held up the board and traced it

It is left 1" off the floor so it wouldn't wick up any possible leak water. I specifically chose OSB with PF resin instead of UF because it is less irritating of a smell, and less toxic. So I will let it outgas for a while so the smell gets less strong and then hopefully clearcoating it will minimize the smell more. It doesn't bother me though.

JakeC · 03-10-2014, 10:16 AM

Looking really good!! Glad you left a 1" gap between the floor and the OSB. That would have been my main concern with using that. You will be very glad you left the chair rail. I have a ton of stuff tied into it on mine.

ThePimentals · 03-10-2014, 07:13 PM

I'm planning the same thing for the outside windows I cover up I may even make them look like the original windows so that it's really matchy.

porkchopsandwiches · 03-11-2014, 11:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JakeC

Looking really good!! Glad you left a 1" gap between the floor and the OSB. That would have been my main concern with using that. You will be very glad you left the chair rail. I have a ton of stuff tied into it on mine.

Thanks! I learned to do that drywalling a basement.

Quote:

Originally Posted by ThePimentals

I'm planning the same thing for the outside windows I cover up I may even make them look like the original windows so that it's really matchy.

Definitely do it. I used 16 gauge steel which is excessively thick, but I bought it in 4x8 sheets and since there was so much extra I can use it for other things that thinner metal wouldn't have been good for. Let me know if you want more specific details on how I did it.

browncrown · 03-11-2014, 07:09 PM

Nice work!!!

porkchopsandwiches · 03-11-2014, 10:31 PM

So I started framing the rear bed at 8 pm or so

It is sized for a "full" size mattress. The middle vertical support is just temporary, it will have more than that once I decide how to do doors for the storage area under it. Pretty good amount of space

Tomorrow I will put foam board in so there is no dead space on top of the engine bay.

Tango · 03-11-2014, 11:39 PM

Also a great place for fresh water tanks.

Docsgsxr · 03-12-2014, 05:51 AM

Looking good my man! You are moving right along.
I picked mine up in Chattanooga TN. And will post some updated pics later today.
I figured out the wiring mess I pm'd you about. I have a ton of switches in my
console that are going to come out. I plan on rebuilding the whole thing from wood.
So I am going to remove the unnecessary electrical and switches in the driver area.
Seats are out, interior radiators are out. Next is the side panels, ceiling and insulation
removal. But would you know it, no 2" foam board where I am. I have to find my new
insulation somewhere else!

Docsgsxr · 03-12-2014, 06:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by porkchopsandwiches

So I started framing the rear bed at 8 pm or so
It is sized for a "full" size mattress. The middle vertical support is just temporary, it will have more than that once I decide how to do doors for the storage area under it. Pretty good amount of space

Tomorrow I will put foam board in so there is no dead space on top of the engine bay.

Hey man, why did you decide to build the bed frame so high up? Were you worried about space or floods?

On a real note, you are doing a great job. Some serious inspiration for me!

porkchopsandwiches · 03-13-2014, 10:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Docsgsxr

Looking good my man! You are moving right along.
I picked mine up in Chattanooga TN. And will post some updated pics later today.
I figured out the wiring mess I pm'd you about. I have a ton of switches in my
console that are going to come out. I plan on rebuilding the whole thing from wood.
So I am going to remove the unnecessary electrical and switches in the driver area.
Seats are out, interior radiators are out. Next is the side panels, ceiling and insulation
removal. But would you know it, no 2" foam board where I am. I have to find my new
insulation somewhere else!

Just try calling around. Better yet, call some spray foam companies and see if you can work out a deal with them. I had been thinking if you arrange to show up to where they keep their equipment or one of their jobsites you could reduce the cost, they wouldn't have to bring everything somewhere. If I were to do it over I would greatly prefer to have it sprayed even though it is more $.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Docsgsxr

Hey man, why did you decide to build the bed frame so high up? Were you worried about space or floods?

On a real note, you are doing a great job. Some serious inspiration for me!

I wanted a big(ish) bed in the back and the storage under it is nice.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tango

Also a great place for fresh water tanks.

I was going to put these underneath between the frame rails, cause no driveshaft down the middle

save the space for unnecessarly BS that I am sure to bring

Tango · 03-13-2014, 05:03 PM

Unless you plan on never getting near freezing weather or adding heat strips to the tank...putting your fresh water supply "indoors" is highly recommended. Just one more thing to consider.

Tango · 03-13-2014, 07:25 PM

Roger that . I've heard from a few folks up north who have had to put antifreeze into and heat strips onto their poo tanks to avoid them freezing. With the kind of winters we've had lately, just about anything exposed containing water is gonna turn solid in the upper parts of the planet. And I suppose the lower part too if you could drive far enough.

Good time to head for Margaritaville and palm trees!

LandLubber · 03-14-2014, 09:33 AM

Nice bed. We are doing something similar. My mechanic friend is going to service my engine overhead (top of motor) make sure you leave a way to get to your service hatch (you probably all ready thought of this, but gotta say it). It would be tragic to disassemble a bunch of nice cabinet work to do 1 hour of service.

LandLubber · 03-14-2014, 09:52 AM

it's in the center of rear "bench" in a RE bus. You can service the pulley side of the engine from outside, but the other end is reached through a center access door in the "bench". I wouldn't want anyone to have to disassemble a nice bedroom, just to adjust the top end of the engine, which should probably be done every 150,000-200,000 miles.

porkchopsandwiches · 03-14-2014, 12:58 PM

I don't have a service hatch in mine. Only like 6" of the motor is under the low part of the back, there is plenty of room to work on it.

porkchopsandwiches · 03-16-2014, 01:42 PM

So we collectively decided the plain white ceiling was too boring. We jazzed it up (with a little help from my friends).

Lets just say the spray paint fumes got to me.

Shower partition built out of solid core doors

Fits pretty well. In a bit im going to go get some FRP, a 32x32 shower pan and some other goodies. I'll eventually be cutting out 4 more partitions like this, 2 for the bathroom area and 2 to sort of encapsulate the fridge.

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