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Old 08-22-2014, 04:40 PM   #121
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Re: Sojourner

a tractor... ...thats cheating!!


take bolts out with a floor jack under it, then knock floor jack away.....then drag tank out...thats the proper way to "drop" a tank
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Old 08-23-2014, 01:33 AM   #122
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Re: Sojourner

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Originally Posted by sojourner
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Slacker!!! LOL, those look cool. I'm interested in both projects. Any info?


What do you want to know? I'll help anywhere I can.
Do you ever use Pacu?
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:03 AM   #123
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Re: Sojourner

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take bolts out with a floor jack under it, then knock floor jack away.....then drag tank out...thats the proper way to "drop" a tank
There was a day when using a floor jack would have been cheating . I've done stuff like this using a 4x4 as a lever to lift and take out spacer blocks one at a time to let something heavy down (like shipping containers). I did block this up before unbolting and dropped the tank and frame on blocks first. The forks (homemade adapter on my tractor) sure make it nice to reach in and carry the whole thing away though. Not sure what I'd do without "The little Kubota that could" around here.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:04 AM   #124
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Re: Sojourner

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Do you ever use Pacu?
Always wanted to but never had a source for them. I grow tilapia here by the 1000's so they have been my mainstay for years.
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Old 08-27-2014, 11:23 AM   #125
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Re: Sojourner

QUICK QUESTION FOR YOU

Have you ever designed anything smaller scale in a portable method?

In designing our conversion (The Living Bus Project) I have established several auxiliary "stub-outs" into (4) primary areas in which I will be used to garden as well as handle the rain/greywater systems. These are: (1.) Interior atrium in the living area raised upper loft; (2.) Exterior raised beds; (3.) Exterior window boxes running the full length of the vehicle; (4.) Fixed holding tank mounted in the lower extreme passenger side of the vehicle (where the generator is currently mounted).

Ideally, the greywater will be handled by (4.) and then initially stored in a relatively small (>25gal) attached tank for on-site/in-vehicle watering. Excess and/or deliverable water will then be transferred to an off-site holding tank for eventual storage/dispersal. I have both 24V & 120V power at my disposal, maximum head up to 50 meters, and maximum discharge up to 60 LPM. I have always grown in soil myself... creating it through composting, vermiculture and no-till methods (I understand microbial life well). Hydro/aquaponics is new to me... although I have done quite a bit of reasearch on the subject. I would greatly value your opinion and any input/advice would also be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

-William

BTW, Your aquaponics system(s) look incredible!
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Old 08-28-2014, 05:38 PM   #126
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Re: Sojourner

Weight will be your nemesis with aquaponics in a portable situation as well as dealing with water sloshing. Not that proper design won't solve the issues but as with all things the more design and specialization needed increases cost. That being said, have you seen the retail product we have available? With light weight media it might work for you. You can see it at www.myaquafarm.com. It's a very durable and sturdy design that's made to last decades. The basic weight of components minus water and media is 235 lbs.

Hope this helps.

Trav.
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Old 09-01-2014, 12:08 PM   #127
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Re: Sojourner

I spent yesterday building the starboard side fuel tank mount frames. I'm using the three holes holding one of the crossmembers to the frame for the forward attachment point. This will locate the fuel tanks as close forward as possible while clearing spring hangers and such and still allow mounting stabilizer jacks on the front of the fuel tank frames. Since the crossmember is held in place with 1/2" bolts and my fuel tank mounts are held in place with 3/4" the first thing to do was drill out the holes to accept the 3/4" bolts. As it turned out it wasn't as bad as thought it would be. A little cutting oil here and there and we made it through just fine. I tacked the down tubes to the angle brackets first and got them squared up, a longitudinal tube tacked in place and then an angle 6" above that to mount strap anchors to as well as add some strength to the overall frame. I'm dropping the skirts to 20" below the floor frames and with 1/2" clearance on top will give me a 17.5" deep tank. This still gives me 17" of ground clearance while filling up the space much better than the factory fuel tank mount that, while way overkill as far as strength, took up way too much empty space. I'm doing this on both sides with tie bars between the frames on bottom for added support. Each tank will be 80 gallons. I was hoping to build 100 gallon tanks but ran into too many other issues with understorage placement, side door location and such. This way the predrilled holes in the frame are used making life a lot simpler. The plan is, once the framework for everything under the floor is finished (understorage frames, LPG and battery compartments, etc...) I'll remove all of them, sandblast and have hot dipped galvanized. The fuel tanks will be made of aluminum with isolation straps (rubber) between the aluminum contact with the galvanized frames.

Here's a pic of the frame on the bench just after welding it together:



A front on shot:



I have a bunch of leftover mobile home strapping and anchor material from a previous project and am going to use them as the tiedowns to secure the tanks in the frames. In case anyone is interested, mobile home tiedown hardware is rated at around 3500 psi. I don't think I'll see 7000 lbs of uplift on the fuel tanks. If I ever do, that'll be the least of my problems (Gimel landed on it's top after falling off a cliff).

Here's a pic of the anchor mechanisms. A square shouldered bolt goes partially through the hole, strapping is fed through a slot in the bolt and the bolt is turned to tighten things up. When the proper tension is reached, the square shoulder is tapped into place and the nut tightened to secure it.



The other side of the frame basically has through bolts that will hold a strap loop:



This is what it looks like installed (and yes Bansil, I used my tractor ):





Next weekend, the port side!!
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Old 09-01-2014, 02:07 PM   #128
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Re: Sojourner

Speaking of fuel tanks and such. Has anyone used PEX for diesel fuel systems? Or, does anyone know what the hard plastic fuel tubing is they use on these things?
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Old 09-02-2014, 04:04 AM   #129
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Re: Sojourner

looks great, nice and beefy
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Old 09-15-2014, 11:04 AM   #130
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Re: Sojourner

Finally got the tank supports with tie-bars and stabilizer jacks bolted in. The pain on all of it is to keep rust down until I get all the undercarriage work done and then sandblast and hot dip galvanize. When I do the final install I'll drop the tanks in and strap em' down. Now to begin making the fresh water tank (55 gallon drum) hanger between the frame rails just behind the differential. I did find the frame rails are not totally mirrors of each other. I used the starboard side tank bracket as a pattern for the port side and the holes were about 1/4" off. Had to remove one of the air tanks and drill out the frame to match.

Starboard fuel tank bracket.


Starboard stabilizer (7000 lb. square tube drop leg jacks).


Port side stabilizer (7000 lb. square tube drop leg jacks).


Port side (drivers side) fuel tank bracket.



From under with stabilizers down.



A little lower to see the cross-bars (tie the whole thing together).
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