Sojourner

[sojourner]

Remember, this is the internet. Don't trust anything you see. That could just be some model/actor he hired to stand in for him.

BUSTED!!! Whoda thunk I'd find such a handsome stunt double who's a professional Beluga Whale Bikini model who just happened to be "between jobs"!! Seems everytime he puts on a bikini and lays on the beach not only do children run off screaming in terror and people start gouging their eyes out the harpoons start flying from offshore whaling ships.

[sojourner]

Just saw a documentary on foam insulation that went bad. Nasty stuff when it doesn't cure properly (even when done professionally). I was wondering what alternatives there are out there with similar R values? Any ideas?

[EastCoastCB]

Foam board would be the next best thing, id imagine.
I saw the same show, I think.

[nat_ster]

You bring your bus to them, they spray it in the right environmental conditions.

The number of spray jobs gone bad is so small, I'm not even going to consider anything else.

That video needs to be taken down, or labeled as histarya.

One bad job out of half a million good jobs. All caused by the operator not making sure his equipment was mixing properly.

Ask for references. I have a guy I use for all my home builds. No issues to date.

Nat

[Timelord]

Originally Posted by nat_ster

The number of spray jobs gone bad is so small, I'm not even going to consider anything else.

That video needs to be taken down, or labeled as histarya.

Fully agree.

[sojourner]

Believe me, I'm not buying in to all the hype. Just asking for viable alternatives to spray foam. I'm not a fan of foam boards due to not addressing condensation issues and maybe even exasperate them by reducing air flow and drainage. There are many things I like about spray foam (noise reduction, if applied properly increase strength, and elimination of condensation altogether). That being said, and as good as the stuff is, it just seems a bit shortsighted that there's not a better way to insulate a metal container.

[Tango]

Aerogel or Pyrogel...but it's a bit more costly.

[sojourner]

Thanks for the info. Still a long way away but always thinking ahead.

[sojourner]

OK everyone, here's some pics of my recent work on the basement storage bays. Got the drivers side installed. I've got the aluminum panels cut but will not install them until almost finished with the bus to keep easy access to installing wiring, plumbing, gas and HVAC.

[EastCoastCB]

damn you're an excellent fabricator and craftsman.
Impressive work, sir.
I love that bus.

[Tango]

Outstanding workmanship! --- That should make for a lot of very usable space.

And like you, I'm gonna wait till everything under the bus is pretty much complete before I attach my new side panels.

[sojourner]

Thanks everyone. The smaller square frames are for access for assemblies I'm building for the fuel fills and stabilizer jacks. I also scored some cool gas cylinders while in China for the storage bay doors.

[sojourner]

Ok, I just got an estimate on the sheet metal to cover the cargo bag framing and roof raise. $128.00/5'x10' sheet of galvanized 16 ga. Needless to say, $1000+ is a bit, well,a lot more than I was planning on. Anyone have any more economical solutions?

[milkmania]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Ok, I just got an estimate on the sheet metal to cover the cargo bag framing and roof raise. $128.00/5'x10' sheet of galvanized 16 ga. Needless to say, $1000+ is a bit, well,a lot more than I was planning on. Anyone have any more economical solutions?

1) what are the rough dimensions of your vertical breaks?
2) are they consistent lengths between verticals? *hard to tell in pics.
3) how tall are the finished skirts going to be?

seems like with that rear taper, you'd be able to divide a sheet diagonally. and use the remainder of material on the other side.

I know this doesn't answer your "different solution" question.... but there's too many variables unknown. The dimensions might help some others brainstorm with you.

love the basement build!

[EastCoastCB]

Want me to get my price?

[Tango]

Really no need for galvanized. And it is a RPITA to paint (it has to be well etched to even accept paint) and toxic to weld. Just try to stay close to the original skin thickness with plain hot-rolled steel and it should be cheaper.

NOTE...I don't know about your year, but for a long time BB used an odd, proprietary sheetmetal...something like 15 gauge...16 will work fine.

[sojourner]

I've got a 1995 AmTrans. The body panels are galvanized. I'm not planning on welding any of it. The wire I got was for having 5'x10' sheets sheared into 3'x10' & 2'x10'. I would then take the 2'material and brake a 1" flange along the edge. Most of the sheeting in the basement storage bays will be cut away for the door openings so even if I had a rigid material like a plastic or stiff like Formica would work. I'm not trying to stop bullets, just have something that looks nice. Not relying on the skin for strength either. That's coming from the framing.

[nat_ster]

No, steel just cost money. No way around it.

For me the entire bus is galvanized, so the sheeting steel I got was too.

I payed around $87 a 4x8 sheet of 14 Gauge.

Also the galvanized sheets were only $7 more per sheet. Not bad because they did not have to get painted right away, and a cheap undercoating.

Welding should never be a issue due to buses having the outer skin Riveted on, not Welded on.

Nat

[wauto]

Why not plastic sheeting ? The stuff they use for landfill liners comes in rolls and was at one time pretty reasonable. It comes in Black, however you could wrap it with vinyl afterwards. Just a thought.

[The Nebuchadnezzar]

Call me crazy but everything on my bus functions and I have lots of work to do converting, I can't understand why extra wiring is so upsetting to folks, guess I'm from the "if it works don't fix it" camp.