Sojourner

[EastCoastCB]

Originally Posted by Dragonpop

As I see it the problem we are having is a regional thing. Nat has
a good basis of what a high humidity area is like and others live in
area with low or no humidity. In Arizona they give a humidity indicator
with the weather report because some times it can rain and not
touch the ground. Wood rot and mold are almost non existent in
most of Arizona where I plan to go shortly. I grew up in eastern
Oregon and thought humidity in Seattle was bad until at 20 years
of age I went east of the Mississippi and couldn't believe people
could actually live in that stuff.

We have extreme humidity here in FL, and all the problems associated with that. I got an old VW bus from AZ long ago and was always amazed at how well preserved it was. Stuff rusts badly here but seems like it could last forever out there!

[sojourner]

Humidity drives the "feel like" temp here as high as 125 deg. F here in South Carolina. One of the few things I'd change.

[crazycal]

Originally Posted by M1031A1

Thought I'd NEVER say this, but I prefer some humidity as opposed to the 17% humidity of the California valley where the dust is more prevalent than water. Sneezing brown dirt out of my sinuses hurt after 36 hours of being there.... Just sayin'.......

Ya, suuurre! I love sweating like a hog by doing nothing but standing still.

[sojourner]

Concerning humidity issues, it can create sweating when the temps are right (or wrong). Won is a way to help mitigate excess moisture. I built a trailer once that had metal ribs and top but the sides were masonite soffet material. Even in the Pacific northwest it never condensed water on the inside due to stabilizing the humidity on the inside. I'm using 1" Canberra mahogany for our floors laid down like a boat deck with caulked seams. We'll most likely finish it with an oil finish that will allow it to breathe as needed to help with changes in humidity. I've used it for years untreated around the farm and even in contact with pig manure has proved to be virtually rot proof.

[sojourner]

Thinking about the new bumper and was wondering if it's legal to put the turn signals in the bumper instead of the stock mount on the front access doors?
I'm away and only have my kindle and there's no search function using this device �� to look elsewhere.

[Tango]

Hmmmm...no idea on that one. Might have to check with DMV or even DOT(?)

[Outcast]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Thinking about the new bumper and was wondering if it's legal to put the turn signals in the bumper instead of the stock mount on the front access doors?
I'm away and only have my kindle and there's no search function using this device �� to look elsewhere.

Yes, it is legal, it's done on cars and trucks all the time. Sometimes referred to as frenching the tail lights. As long as they work and are between the min and max height requirements, and are the correct color. There's a push on here in Georgia to ticket the vehicles that are installing dress up lights around their headlights and tail lights, that blink in multi-color. Blue is illegal anywhere on a vehicle, unless it is a government vehicle, and red is illegal on the front.

[sojourner]

Good news!! The friend who got me the 20 gauge metal was able to return it and get 17 gauge. Feeling much better now. I also got some Peterbilt gauges in and began working with calibrating the tach. There's no adjustment on the outside so I'm having to break in. Literally. I broke the leads by accident on the trim pot so I'm awaiting a replacement. Then I can adjust the hertz to match what's coming from my ring gear. The tech from the factory was a big help. Getting closer to getting ask the gauges I want on this project. When finished collecting the gauges I'll have:
Speedo
Teach
Oil pressure
Oil temp
Trans temp
Differential temp
Engine coolant temp
Manifold pressure
Dual air (single gauge)
Dual fuel
Pyrometer
Volts

Just have a couple more to find.

Pics coming later.

[sojourner]

Ok, got a question about cab window sizes. I'm thinking about a 36 x18 for the driver side and 30 x 20 for the passenger side. Any thoughts from those who may have put rv windows in their cab to replace the stock one? I have a FE model 1995 AmTrans.

[sojourner]

I'm having a hard time finding matching left and right slider windows for the cab without paying a fortune. It looks like I'm stuck using the stock window. I need another for the passenger side. Does anyone have one lying around they want to get rid of cheap? Let me know please.

[EastCoastCB]

I have all my stock windows still and am not using any of them. They're still on the bus but will be available for free in the fall. Did you ask me about them many months ago?

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I have all my stock windows still and am not using any of them. They're still on the bus but will be available for free in the fall. Did you ask me about them many months ago?

The only one I'm needing is the drivers window. I'm getting rid of my passenger windows as well. Just let me know when it's available. I'll get you some shipping money.
Thanks,
Travis

[EastCoastCB]

I'll try to get done with the roof raise prep in the next four weeks and should have the windows out by then.
My drivers window is maybe my BEST one in terms of condition, but its still pretty rattly and whatnot. It would need new rubber and a bit of tlc.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by EastCoastCB

I'll try to get done with the roof raise prep in the next four weeks and should have the windows out by then.
My drivers window is maybe my BEST one in terms of condition, but its still pretty rattly and whatnot. It would need new rubber and a bit of tlc.

I'm planning on rebuilding both. It looks like they can be taken apart. I'll have to shorten the one on the passenger side of the cockpit.

Thanks,
Trav.

[sojourner]

Ok, good day today!! I believe I mentioned in an earlier post trying to recalibrate a Peterbilt tachometer. The tach I have is calibrated to another ring gear tooth count so it did not read properly on my engine. I spoke with the tech people at the company that manufactured it and found that while it's a non adjustable tach from the customer side of things there was a trim pot inside to adjust it during manufacture. They told me approximately where to open the case to access it so I went in. They warned me that the trim pot had been locked into place and the leads were fragile but I decided to go in anyhow. They were right on both points. I ended up damaging the trim pot. I then carefully removed the front trim ring to disassemble the gauge. Once the trim ring was off and the glass and seal removed the gauge would slide out of the housing. The damaged trim pot was a 200K so I ordered a replacement. It came in today and since it was raining I decided to see if I could repair and recalibrate this gauge. I was able to get the old trim pot removed and the Nwew one soldered in place. I went out and wired it in, started the engine and Walla! I got an indication! I throttled the engine to max rpms and adjusted the tach to 2900. I then eased of the throttle and the reading settled in to 700 rpm. Perfect. I then took the opportunity to clean the face and glass and reassembled the parts. The face ring had to be crimped into place carefully and slowly. It turned ought beautiful! I took it out and tested after final assembly. All good! I now have a Pete tach for my international engine. I know strange but I like the look of the classic Pete gauges.
Here's a photo of the back of the gauge looking through the access I made to get to the trim pot:

Here's a pic of the underside of the face ring after re-crimping:

Here's the front after final assembly:

At the rate I'm going this is going to take forever but dog gone it, I'm having a ball😁😁!!

[sojourner]

Some photos of the progress so far making my basement storage bay doors. Everything is built to be lubed, serviced and repaired if need be. Finally got my TIG up and running after reaching and replacing done wires inside some mice decided to "un-wire". Bought it 12 years ago from a friend but haven't hooked it up. Last time I TIG welded was working on parts for the Star Wars missile defense program back in the 80's. Needless to say, I'm having a ball!! Love this machine!! I'm building the door frames from 3/4" x 16" square tubing and will fusion weld 16ga panels inside. I'll be building the slam latches, bell cranks and connecting rods from scratch. I did cheat and purchase single point paddle latches though. Progress is slow due to the tight fit up needed for fusion welding thin material so I don't plan on getting any more than a basic door made in a day. Setting up the mechanisms for latching will take even more time.

[family wagon]

Looking good. I'll be interested to see how you work out the latches etc, as I'm close to the point of making basement doors for mine as well.

[Tango]

Nice beads Dude!

[sojourner]

Today I got the lift geometry worked out and the other door frame built. Tomorrow I'll cut the sheet metal and weld in place.

[Tango]

Nice work! Keep the pix coming.