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12-10-2015, 11:04 AM
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#401
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Moderator
Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: NUNYA
Posts: 4,236
Year: 1995
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: 3800
Engine: DT408, AT545
Rated Cap: 23 500 gvw
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Nice metalwork. Very cool bumper.
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12-10-2015, 06:19 PM
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#402
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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Great job!
Lights going in behind the expanded metal?
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12-11-2015, 01:43 AM
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#403
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDD
Great job!
Lights going in behind the expanded metal?
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Haven't decided yet. While they look good, the mesh is to tight to get good light transmission. I am seriously considering taking the destination window out and making an alcove for a LED light bar both front and rear as well as clear lenses on the red and amber.
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01-01-2016, 05:18 PM
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#404
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Been working on finishing the bumper and will get pics when installed. In the mean time I began constructing the solar panel rack and will get pics on that in the future. The one thing I do have pics on is the adapter to convert a window unit A/C unit to a varmint mounted central air unit. I removed the front of the unit to expose the evaporator (intake) and forced air side (exhaust).
Then build a frame to accept the adapter.
A face frame of the adapter box is made and the partition pieces are welded in.
The back is welded into place, holes cut for vent pipes and pipes installed.
Pre assemble before checking the fit to set up the mount for the adapter box. When finished I'll be able to remove the A/C unit for service and all the ventilation piping will stay in place.
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01-01-2016, 08:10 PM
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#405
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Bakersfield, California
Posts: 1,013
Year: 1976
Coachwork: Crown
Chassis: Supercoach
Engine: Detroit 6-71 Mid-Ship Mounted
Rated Cap: 79 at Birth
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Can already feel the cool
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01-01-2016, 09:26 PM
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#406
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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Outstanding design and work! Nice conversion to central.
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01-02-2016, 04:55 PM
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#407
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Skoolie
Join Date: Nov 2011
Posts: 172
Year: 1993
Coachwork: BlueBird
Chassis: GMC
Engine: GMC
Rated Cap: 42
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I have heard of using a window unit for central air on a bus, but I no idea what they were talking about. You showed the process with 6 pictures and just a small amount of text. Thanks so much for keeping it simple yet showing all of the important steps. I hope you will do the same on the install. Thanks again!
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01-03-2016, 01:38 PM
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#408
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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I got the adapter box mounted in the basement frameworks. For now I'm just getting the hardware in place. When I do the final install, I'll put a rubber shim between the frame rails and the mounts to attempt to soften vibration a bit. I simply don't have enough room to put in some big squishy isolators. I'm hoping the woods used in the floors and walls will help dampen noise as well. Yea, I know, hope springs eternal. I'm thinking even if there was no isolation it can't be as bad as the window A/C next to my head rumbling the wall at night in my house. I got accustomed to that so this should be a piece of cake.
Here's the box installed before attaching the A/C.
Next bolt on the A/C unit.
Then install the service cover to protect the condenser foil.
When I do the final install I'll shorten the power cord and extend the control panel wiring. For those concerned about the fan being able to blow up into the cabin I'm going to install an inline booster fan wired into the blower circuit. This is on the shaded side of the bus so the A/C unit is in the coolest location possible. The solar panels will shade the center of the roof and I'm looking into ways to create a second skin with an air gap on the exposed part of the roof to reduce heat load.
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01-03-2016, 02:04 PM
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#409
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 11
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What BTU is the unit you're using? What's the BTU of a rooftop unit that would traditionally be installed?
I love the idea of a window unit since they are so much cheaper than a roof top and will probably last much longer out of the elements.
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01-03-2016, 02:28 PM
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#410
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave In Florida
What BTU is the unit you're using? What's the BTU of a rooftop unit that would traditionally be installed?
I love the idea of a window unit since they are so much cheaper than a roof top and will probably last much longer out of the elements.
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This is an 8000 btu unit. Must rooftops are 13,500. While 8000 seems undersized, remember this is not in the worst location possible for an A/C unit with the sun beating down on it at the worst possible time when it's needed the most. Also, RV' are, for all practical purposes, not insulated and very drafty. Well be zone cooling via ducts. While in the living dining area during the day we'll cool that area, at night direct the cooling to the bedroom. The reason for our choice of unit was also due to it being the largest 110V unit I could get locally. I don't want to wire our bus for 50 amp.
Keeping it small and simple.
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01-03-2016, 02:32 PM
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#411
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Mini-Skoolie
Join Date: Jun 2015
Posts: 11
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I'm really pulling for you on this (mainly so I can copy you later LOL). Good luck and definitely keep us posted.
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01-04-2016, 03:08 PM
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#412
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: ...little north of Toronto Ontario
Posts: 606
Year: 2000
Coachwork: Thomsass
Chassis: FreightShaker
Engine: 5.9 Cummins 5 speed
Rated Cap: 2 ATV's and friends
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Great job! Hadn't thought about an AC unit under the bus....may look into stealing your idea.
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01-11-2016, 03:11 PM
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#413
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Been working on the solar panel mount as time permits. It'll mount directly into the outer flanges of the body bows.
I'm making it adjustable by using boat trailer tongue jacks as actuators. I removed their mounts and cut off the wheel mount on the end.
I then made mounts for the cross pin and welded into place. The cross pins also sit in bronze bushings.
The crank handles will be removed and shafts made to replace them (similar to what I did with my stabilizer jacks). The shafts will be the other end connection and pivot as well as connect the two jacks together and allow extending (cranking) with a cordless drill to adjust the angle from flat (for road travel) to whatever angle maximizes solar exposure.
I also scored two used air ride seats I'll rebuild. I removed the right arm on the one to see what's wrong with it. Gonna have to replace the inner ratchet adjuster. Lori will sew new skins for the seats as these are torn and stained. To be expected for $50.00 each!! I'll clean up, sand, paint and grease the bases. Both are airtight with lift and triple lumbar adjustment. It just so happened my son and daughter were visiting the town where these were located almost 5 hours away this weekend saving me a road trip. I love it when a plan comes together !
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01-11-2016, 03:38 PM
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#414
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New Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: NH
Posts: 5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by REDD
Great job! Hadn't thought about an AC unit under the bus....may look into stealing your idea.
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Lol, I know right? Seems like it belongs there!
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01-11-2016, 03:58 PM
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#415
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Houston, Texas
Posts: 8,462
Year: 1946
Coachwork: Chevrolet/Wayne
Chassis: 1- 1/2 ton
Engine: Cummins 4BT
Rated Cap: 15
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I just wish I had room under my shorty for the window unit A/C. Much better there!
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02-25-2016, 04:25 PM
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#416
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Just checking in. Things have been a bit crazy here the past few weeks. Neighbors have a "composting" facility next door and began taking in municipal sludge. Think 40 acre pit latrine with odours so bad you can hardly breathe at times. We're talking to them about a buyout as they would like to have my shop and amenities we've built on the place. So far a big difference between what they're offering and what we're asking to rebuild what's taken ten years to build here. As such, I might be using the bus as a moving vehicle. I did get the solar panel mount primed but waiting for the wind to lay down to paint. Been working the past couple days on wiring. Because of the interior plans were running the tail light writing under the body rather than the stock chase. Not as easy as it sounds but I did get all the rear lights wires hanging down today. I'll get pics up hopefully soon.
On another note, has anyone considered using Monstaliner as an exterior finish? I like the durability, low maintenance, sound deadening quality, etc... I think it's a bit ridiculous to do an automotive finish on a riveted vehicle. I was planning on doing something like this below the floor anyhow. Looking at some of the full body paint jobs on off road vehicles, I like how they look. Any thoughts?
__________________
I am an sojourner in the earth; hide not Your Commandments from me. Psalm 119:19
Here is the patience of the saints; here are the ones keeping the commandments of YAHWEH, and the faith of Yahshua. Rev. 14:12
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02-25-2016, 04:43 PM
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#417
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Bus Crazy
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Salt Lake City Utah
Posts: 1,635
Year: 2000
Chassis: Blue Bird
Engine: ISC 8.3
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Oh dear. Sorry to hear about your composting neighbor!
I haven't seen the Monstaliner. I suppose it must be similar to the one-part Herculiner I used several years ago. That stuff was advertised as roll-on, but in my opinion looked much better when I applied it with a cheap undercoat spray gun instead. It ended up pretty thin in places and also very coarse, ie abrasive to your arm or other exposed flesh that might rub against it, when applied by roller.
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02-25-2016, 05:21 PM
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#418
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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[QUOTE=I haven't seen the Monstaliner. I suppose it must be similar to the one-part Herculiner I used several years ago. That stuff was advertised as roll-on, but in my opinion looked much better when I applied it with a cheap undercoat spray gun instead. It ended up pretty thin in places and also very coarse, ie abrasive to your arm or other exposed flesh that might rub against it, when applied by roller.[/QUOTE]
Monstaliner and Raptor are two part systems. While Monstaliner is sold as a roll on, it can be sprayed. Raptor is a spray on. I agree, some of these can end up way too coarse. Slightly textured but level is what I'm looking for. I'm thinking when boondocking, a durable surface will serve me much better.
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02-26-2016, 08:03 AM
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#419
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Bus Nut
Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 703
Year: 1995
Engine: DT408
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Letting it all hang out 😁😁!
Gonna test everything today before running the harness from front to rear.
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02-26-2016, 10:22 AM
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#420
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Bus Geek
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: Eustis FLORIDA
Posts: 23,764
Year: 1999
Coachwork: Thomas
Chassis: Freighliner FS65
Engine: Cat 3126
Rated Cap: 15
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Our community waste treatment plant smells up half the municipality. I couldn't imagine your situation, Sojourner.
I'm working on buying land this year or next, and would hate to end up with a "neighbor" like that.
You should come down, give me a hand raising my roof, and take these windows you want!
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