Haven't posted many pics in a while so here goes.
While the stock mirrors are good at showing you what's going on, they are a somewhat gangly mess and not very "elegant". I fabricated some new brackets and am reusing the stock mirrors to get a more "West Coast" style:
I've also been blanking out the light holes and marquis window. Good thing too!! There wasn't 1/8" of overlap on the cutout with the rubber seal. Needless to say, water had been leaking inside. Not anymore!! I also purchased a 300 watt LED light bar in case some additional illumination is requires while boon-docking.
In this photo, you can see I have no headlights. I'm upgrading from the 35 watt stock headlamps that came with the bus to 100 watt H4 Halogens. This requires a total rewire with heavier gauge wires and new relays with the lights getting their power directly from the battery. I'm waiting on some heavy duty connectors to wire the lights in:
View from the back with windows, flasher lights and marquis window blanked. By the way, all these panels are sealed with Sikaflex marine sealer. No more leaks!!
I also replaced all the turn signal, brake, backup and running lights. Some with stock (which I will put in LED bulbs) and some outright LED fixtures (running lights).
No real need to explain these pics. Anyone who's done this knows what it means when the back of the bus looks like this. Oh yea, the ugliness begins!! I must say, two crowbars used together pops the panels right up!!
This picture hints at why I'm doing the floors now. Not only to deal with some minor rust but I'm relocating the battery to a bracket under the floor between the frame rails. I had to remove the stock battery box when I built the two fuel tanks. When finished, a hatch in the floor will give us access to the battery box (full plastic enclosure) from within the cabin to service the battery. The plastic battery box will keep any chance of battery acid dripping on the driveshaft which could lead to a very bad day. I'm using a marine box designed to catch anything a battery might "ooze". It also has the advantage of shortening the battery cables.
After getting all the floor panels out, the screws removed, I power washed the inside floors and sides to clean up the never ending flow of Texas dust from inside. I found out that the easiest way to remove the tar-like patches used to stick the old insulation in place is to pressure wash the patches. It strips it off easily with no chemicals or messy wire brushing. Now things are MUCH cleaner:
Once the battery boxes (one for starting and the other for solar system) are installed in the floors and the entry door relocated I'll then treat the rust and paint the floor.
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The 
Linear Mode
