Sojourner

[golfersmurf57]

I worked on battery powered stuff. Anyone building battery boxes should do these 3 things:
1 paint it with 5 to 6 heavy coats of enamel the cover that with rubberized undercoating.
2 install a large drain in the bottom 2 would be better
3 periodically treat and wash the batteries to remove acids that in the box. The undercoating will shed water and remain intact while protecting the metal box from corrosion.

Clean batteries tend to last longer maybe cause they're happy ☺

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[sojourner]

Originally Posted by golfersmurf57

I worked on battery powered stuff. Anyone building battery boxes should do these 3 things:
1 paint it with 5 to 6 heavy coats of enamel the cover that with rubberized undercoating.
2 install a large drain in the bottom 2 would be better
3 periodically treat and wash the batteries to remove acids that in the box. The undercoating will shed water and remain intact while protecting the metal box from corrosion.

Clean batteries tend to last longer maybe cause they're happy ☺

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Good advice when building battery boxes. I use commercially built battery boxes simply because molded battery boxes are sealed better for keeping fluids in and dirt out .

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by plfking

This is the one Chris was referring to, I think. It is in the photo albums somewhere.....I only saved these three pics because it may be something I do to mine. I like the window height because you wouldn't have to stoop over as far to see out the windows, and they would offer more privacy if you're boondocking in your underwear.


Don

Found the build:
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/f11/ro...14-a-9478.html

By the way, if searching for something on this site using the search feature, you can save yourself a LOT of time by searching google images to find what you want.

[sojourner]

I've started working on the right side undercarriage again. The section between the wheels was being left "in the rough" while waiting for time and resources to do the roof raise. I'm once again seriously considering not doing a roof raise as the time to do so is seriously becoming a problem getting this thing done. We're at a place in our lives where we really don't know what will be going on in the next few months. The possibility for Lori and I to relocate (possible job) is just too real for me to get this thing in a place where I can't really move, or work on it. If the job prospect I'm thinking is on it's way comes to pass, I'll be able to work on Gimel after hours while away.
After doing some serious re-thinking" of this project, this is what I've come to (at least of recent):
1. Not doing the roof raise will allow me to make progress on the project overall.
2. The window height (or lack of) is mainly a problem for the galley counters and backsplash. I really don't like building up against glass windows (not a slam on those who do, just a personal preference from a maintenance standpoint) so the plan is to remove the glass from the frames and build fillers for the bottom portion of the stock windows. We will still be able to use the top half (for light and ventilation) and build with standard counter height in the galley. All usable glass will be tinted and resealed with new glazing vinyl (I'm thinking this stuff would work for me).
I'll only need to rebuild about 12 windows for the build.
3. I will look into alternative insulation schemes for the floors which might include spray foam under the metal floor. If not, maybe use cork flooring. It rarely get's cold here and I seriously doubt Lori and I will ever overwinter in the north. That's one of the reasons for being able to drive ones home right?
4. The shower height is an issue but I'm thinking of a "bump up" with skylight to facilitate headroom.
5. Motorizing my solar panel lift will allow me to blank out the rear emergency hatch as I won't need access to both ends to raise it.

The immediate priority is get the side door installed so I can get the cab closed in and finished. By not raising the roof, I can get started with that very soon.
So, with that being said, here's what I've been working on today. The exhaust pipe exits right in front of the rear wheel and I was wanting to do something radius around the pipe instead of a square opening for a round pipe. Here's what I came up with:



The galvanized sheet metal skin will be cut to the contour. I'm planning on using rubber fender flares but will reuse some of the small metal trim around the pipe area.
I've got the front portion finished and primed and will get a pic later when I do the door framing. The skin and frame in forward of the door is for the fuel tank area and will be removable should a tank replacement be needed. Both the fore and aft frames will bolt to the door framing which will be attached solidly to the body. The door will fit with only a couple inches to spare under the drip rail with the bottom frame in line with the storage bay bottoms.
I'm gonna have to get creative with some sort of step arrangement to fill the 17" gap to the ground. I'm currently leaning toward a cable stayed step that slips into a receiver just outside the door that's lowered into place when leaving the bus and hauled up when moving. There's just no room to put a retractable step without having it hang down 8"-10" when retracted. That's not gonna happen.

[Robin97396]

That's looking good. Nice that you've got dry weather.

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by Robin97396

That's looking good. Nice that you've got dry weather.

Thanks. Dry didn't last long though (about 2 days). Back in the rain now with cold temps again this coming week.
It's hard to keep things dry like this.

[Jolly Roger bus 223]

I know you probably have plans like storage in that hollow area. So maybe build a set of steps that could be stowed away in a bin?
I have an idea for steps on the back porch I want to build out of steel where the steps thereselves will fold down flat like a ramp and slide underneath the back porch like a UHAUL ramp.
Height of the steps would mess that idea up going sideways into the frame rail but you could do two separate slides at where the lower supports the upper?
I could sketch up the idea in my head if it would help? Haven't tried it yet. But it could be the same principle as the RV mess but made to slide into a cubby with a door when not needed.
Just my ideas.
Looking good

[sojourner]

Originally Posted by Jolly Roger bus 223

I know you probably have plans like storage in that hollow area. So maybe build a set of steps that could be stowed away in a bin?
I have an idea for steps on the back porch I want to build out of steel where the steps thereselves will fold down flat like a ramp and slide underneath the back porch like a UHAUL ramp.
Height of the steps would mess that idea up going sideways into the frame rail but you could do two separate slides at where the lower supports the upper?
I could sketch up the idea in my head if it would help? Haven't tried it yet. But it could be the same principle as the RV mess but made to slide into a cubby with a door when not needed.
Just my ideas.
Looking good

Yes, that is a storage area to the right of the new fab. I'm going to need something that can stay inside and be let down when we go out. I don't think it's going to be that hard to do actually.
Old sci-fi movies did it all the time when the Martian saucer showed up .

[BurlKing]

Originally Posted by sojourner

I've started working on the right side undercarriage again. The section between the wheels was being left "in the rough" while waiting for time and resources to do the roof raise. I'm once again seriously considering not doing a roof raise as the time to do so is seriously becoming a problem getting this thing done. We're at a place in our lives where we really don't know what will be going on in the next few months. The possibility for Lori and I to relocate (possible job) is just too real for me to get this thing in a place where I can't really move, or work on it. If the job prospect I'm thinking is on it's way comes to pass, I'll be able to work on Gimel after hours while away.
After doing some serious re-thinking" of this project, this is what I've come to (at least of recent):
1. Not doing the roof raise will allow me to make progress on the project overall.
2. The window height (or lack of) is mainly a problem for the galley counters and backsplash. I really don't like building up against glass windows (not a slam on those who do, just a personal preference from a maintenance standpoint) so the plan is to remove the glass from the frames and build fillers for the bottom portion of the stock windows. We will still be able to use the top half (for light and ventilation) and build with standard counter height in the galley. All usable glass will be tinted and resealed with new glazing vinyl (I'm thinking this stuff would work for me).
I'll only need to rebuild about 12 windows for the build.
3. I will look into alternative insulation schemes for the floors which might include spray foam under the metal floor. If not, maybe use cork flooring. It rarely get's cold here and I seriously doubt Lori and I will ever overwinter in the north. That's one of the reasons for being able to drive ones home right?
4. The shower height is an issue but I'm thinking of a "bump up" with skylight to facilitate headroom.
5. Motorizing my solar panel lift will allow me to blank out the rear emergency hatch as I won't need access to both ends to raise it.

The immediate priority is get the side door installed so I can get the cab closed in and finished. By not raising the roof, I can get started with that very soon.
So, with that being said, here's what I've been working on today. The exhaust pipe exits right in front of the rear wheel and I was wanting to do something radius around the pipe instead of a square opening for a round pipe. Here's what I came up with:



The galvanized sheet metal skin will be cut to the contour. I'm planning on using rubber fender flares but will reuse some of the small metal trim around the pipe area.
I've got the front portion finished and primed and will get a pic later when I do the door framing. The skin and frame in forward of the door is for the fuel tank area and will be removable should a tank replacement be needed. Both the fore and aft frames will bolt to the door framing which will be attached solidly to the body. The door will fit with only a couple inches to spare under the drip rail with the bottom frame in line with the storage bay bottoms.
I'm gonna have to get creative with some sort of step arrangement to fill the 17" gap to the ground. I'm currently leaning toward a cable stayed step that slips into a receiver just outside the door that's lowered into place when leaving the bus and hauled up when moving. There's just no room to put a retractable step without having it hang down 8"-10" when retracted. That's not gonna happen.

under-storage is looking great, especially around the exhaust.

seriously wish i could help you come do a roof-raise, IF everything was in place and you had time+money it can be done relatively quick.

either way you do it, i know it'll come out good, you do nice work. hope the job pans out and keep on busin'

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by sojourner

1. Not doing the roof raise will allow me to make progress on the project overall.

I really debated this question. I opted to put in a roll of skylights as a way to keep the space from feeling to closed in without doing a roofer is. I don’t know how it would’ve turned out if I’ve gone the other direction but well I know that rephrases are possible it is a pretty big can of worms to open especially if you worried that you may need to be mobile soon. I’m really happy with the skylights but I do wish I had a little more ceiling height. The biggest problem with the height has to do with the height in the shower.

Originally Posted by sojourner

3. I will look into alternative insulation schemes for the floors which might include spray foam under the metal floor.

What do you see is the drawback to foamboard XPS? I used half-inch in my floor to give me some R-value while not losing too much height. It has been very cold here in Tennessee recently (teens) and my family took a trip in the bus sort of as a test run. We used a propane furnace to heat the bus during the trip and while the floor did get cold the heater was able to keep up well. It was easy to keep the bus 70+. It just went through propane fast. The main thermal loss at this point for me is definitely windows since everything else spray foam or insulated and some other way.

Originally Posted by sojourner

4. The shower height is an issue but I’m thinking of a “bump up” with skylight.

I’m considering/planning doing this as well. What are your plans? For me the trade-off is the exterior look of the bus versus the ability to really stand well in the shower. My shower is up against the side of the bus so the ceiling comes down pretty quickly and I’m just a little under 6 feet and definitely cannot stand comfortably in the shower. It would be a sitting situation for me unless I do some sort of bump up/skylight in the bathroom. Interested to see what you come up with.




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[david.dgeorge07]

A few shots of my row (not roll!) of skylights. It opens the space up a lot and gives a somewhat taller person an area they can stand in.


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[sojourner]

[QUOTE=david.dgeorge07;245028
A few shots of my row (not roll!) of skylights. It opens the space up a lot and gives a somewhat taller person an area they can stand in.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk[/QUOTE]

Cool!! What did you use for the skylight? I have some 1/4" lexan around here that would work nicely. I'll just have to warm it and bend to the roof curve.
As far as the shower, I'll have to cut one of the hat channel bow's and frame in the opening to raise it up. Gonna have to box that in with a wind diverter on the leading edge.

[o1marc]

Any roof top pics?

[david.dgeorge07]

Originally Posted by sojourner

Cool!! What did you use for the skylight? I have some 1/4" lexan around here that would work nicely. I'll just have to warm it and bend to the roof curve.
As far as the shower, I'll have to cut one of the hat channel bow's and frame in the opening to raise it up. Gonna have to box that in with a wind diverter on the leading edge.

I used the Home Depot 24x18x.093 lexan. It is pretty thin, but it was strong enough for me to stand on after installation. I wouldn't recommend that BTW, but I had one that I had to replace because I messed it up and so I figured I would see if it could take it. The thin lexan has the advantage of bending to the contour of the roof, but I imagine there may be some drawbacks. I do think it is strong enough though. That stuff is tough. I think I used about a 1/4" drill bit and number 8 screws I think? The holes are on 2" centers and are 1/2" from the edge of the material. The overlap between the metal hole and the edge of the lexan is 1" on each side so the hole is 2" smaller in each dimension. It was tough finding the middle of the bus.



From above.


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[o1marc]

Definitely going to have some skylights like these in my bus. Great way to get light in and not be obtrusive at all. Are they tinted or clear?

[david.dgeorge07]

Mine are clear


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[sojourner]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

Mine are clear


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Thanks for the inspiration! Gonna have to consider skylights down the center as well.

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

A few shots of my row (not roll!) of skylights. It opens the space up a lot and gives a somewhat taller person an area they can stand in.

What is your "glass" made of? I doubt glass since you have bolts thru it. Yes, I know glass can be drilled but it takes just short of forever to do it.

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

I used the Home Depot 24x18x.093 lexan.

Ah lexan, that's what I thought.

Your roof is what I'd like to do if I don't cover the entire thing in solar panels. The difference being I like my Sportwagen sunroof. Two or three of those would be awesome. They are already tinted, they slide half open, and the screen fully covers them. I've no idea if the sheet metal would line up exactly or not. And for all I know, the sunroof out of a 2017 Blah Blah Blah is bigger, better, and cheaper. But visit the junkyards and find a place with 2 or 3. Then go to town with an angle grinder and go home with the entire roof. Worry about making it fit later!!!

Originally Posted by david.dgeorge07

It was tough finding the middle of the bus.

Um, half way between your "roof rack rails" isn't the center?

[o1marc]

Originally Posted by Brewerbob

Um, half way between your "roof rack rails" isn't the center?

......, I would trust the ribs to be centered.
Is that an Explorer Sport wagon?

[Brewerbob]

Originally Posted by o1marc

......, I would trust the ribs to be centered.
Is that an Explorer Sport wagon?

Centered structurally for sure. Visually it's not going to be off more than a gnat's a$$.

No, Jetta Sportwagon. Explorers are not 1) sport ANYTHING 2) wagons.