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Old 08-12-2016, 07:40 PM   #431
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Been working as I get time and finances. Was working on the new dashboard and couldn't wait to dry fit the gauges.

Gonna be fun to sit behind this some day!!!
Very nice.

(....we need a "Like" button on here....).
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Old 08-12-2016, 07:57 PM   #432
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Been working as I get time and finances. Was working on the new dashboard and couldn't wait to dry fit the gauges.



Still lots to do with switches and indicator lights. Once everything is drilled and sanded, then I need to get it anodized to give it some color.

Gonna be fun to sit behind this some day!!!
That is awesome

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Old 08-12-2016, 10:00 PM   #433
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I dig that!!! looks nice and custom.. almost like a peterbilt panel which i love!!
-Christopher
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Old 08-13-2016, 09:58 AM   #434
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Originally Posted by cadillackid View Post
I dig that!!! looks nice and custom.. almost like a peterbilt panel which i love!!
-Christopher
The Peterbilt corvette dash is the inspiration behind this one. Took the concept and adapted it to the space in my bus. All the gauges are, in fact, vintage Peterbilt gauges. I recalibrated the tach to work on my International DT408.
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:27 PM   #435
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Haven't posted many pics in a while so here goes.
While the stock mirrors are good at showing you what's going on, they are a somewhat gangly mess and not very "elegant". I fabricated some new brackets and am reusing the stock mirrors to get a more "West Coast" style:



I've also been blanking out the light holes and marquis window. Good thing too!! There wasn't 1/8" of overlap on the cutout with the rubber seal. Needless to say, water had been leaking inside. Not anymore!! I also purchased a 300 watt LED light bar in case some additional illumination is requires while boon-docking.



In this photo, you can see I have no headlights. I'm upgrading from the 35 watt stock headlamps that came with the bus to 100 watt H4 Halogens. This requires a total rewire with heavier gauge wires and new relays with the lights getting their power directly from the battery. I'm waiting on some heavy duty connectors to wire the lights in:



View from the back with windows, flasher lights and marquis window blanked. By the way, all these panels are sealed with Sikaflex marine sealer. No more leaks!!



I also replaced all the turn signal, brake, backup and running lights. Some with stock (which I will put in LED bulbs) and some outright LED fixtures (running lights).

No real need to explain these pics. Anyone who's done this knows what it means when the back of the bus looks like this. Oh yea, the ugliness begins!! I must say, two crowbars used together pops the panels right up!!





This picture hints at why I'm doing the floors now. Not only to deal with some minor rust but I'm relocating the battery to a bracket under the floor between the frame rails. I had to remove the stock battery box when I built the two fuel tanks. When finished, a hatch in the floor will give us access to the battery box (full plastic enclosure) from within the cabin to service the battery. The plastic battery box will keep any chance of battery acid dripping on the driveshaft which could lead to a very bad day. I'm using a marine box designed to catch anything a battery might "ooze". It also has the advantage of shortening the battery cables.



After getting all the floor panels out, the screws removed, I power washed the inside floors and sides to clean up the never ending flow of Texas dust from inside. I found out that the easiest way to remove the tar-like patches used to stick the old insulation in place is to pressure wash the patches. It strips it off easily with no chemicals or messy wire brushing. Now things are MUCH cleaner:







Once the battery boxes (one for starting and the other for solar system) are installed in the floors and the entry door relocated I'll then treat the rust and paint the floor.
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Old 09-09-2016, 09:25 PM   #436
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Don't forget to adequately vent that battery box...
I know it should go without saying, but just in case!

Wouldn't want a fellow Skoolie aficionado to get poisoned
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Old 09-10-2016, 05:42 AM   #437
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Don't forget to adequately vent that battery box...
I know it should go without saying, but just in case!

Wouldn't want a fellow Skoolie aficionado to get poisoned
I totally hear ya . The box itself is vented and will sit in a frame well below the floor so there's plenty of air circulation around it. The hatch (access to remove the battery box cover and then access the battery) will have a weatherstrip to keep both vapors and cold air from seeping in and will be latched down into place. Having been a marine tech as my career, I have a built in concern for things that make fumes in confined spaces.
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Old 09-10-2016, 07:16 AM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
I totally hear ya . The box itself is vented and will sit in a frame well below the floor so there's plenty of air circulation around it. The hatch (access to remove the battery box cover and then access the battery) will have a weatherstrip to keep both vapors and cold air from seeping in and will be latched down into place. Having been a marine tech as my career, I have a built in concern for things that make fumes in confined spaces.

Oh heck! You got this then!
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Old 09-10-2016, 08:21 AM   #439
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You may or may not have some issues down the road with that lightbar up front. Most states and I believe some Fed regs have a limit on how high up white lights on the front of a vehicle can be and I have heard of some skoolies having to cover or remove them. There has been some discussion on this here so you might want to look into it.
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Old 09-11-2016, 09:43 PM   #440
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You may or may not have some issues down the road with that lightbar up front. Most states and I believe some Fed regs have a limit on how high up white lights on the front of a vehicle can be and I have heard of some skoolies having to cover or remove them. There has been some discussion on this here so you might want to look into it.
Thanks for the heads up. A cover would be no problem to make if need be.
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