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Old 09-26-2014, 10:16 AM   #141
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Re: Sojourner

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
The computer issue has stalled many projects where a 6-speed Allison was involved. Getting the right harness alone can be a bear and Allison will not reprogram a 5 speed into 6 without written authorization from the builder of the unit it is in or going in.

The new generation 2000 series have exactly the same double OD gearing but do NOT require a computer or exotic harness. They ain't cheap, but I have spoken with a couple of guys who have much more than the $9500 bucks Allison gets for the new units invested in trying to match an older Allison to various engines. The new units have a single, built in processor and only require a TPS (throttle position sensor) to talk to any motor. The unit then figures out (learns) when to shift, lock up, etc.

I am only familiar with this because an Allison 6 speed, double OD was what I wanted (make that.."needed") behind my Cummins 4bt and spent a year or so doing homework. Got lucky in that the new trans just came out as I was about to give up. My Cummins is the older "two-wire" motor that is sans any form of computer whatsoever and based on what I read following numerous threads on the topic, it would have been a nightmare to pull off going the 645 or 3060 route.

I'm not saying that every engine will pose these issues when paired with an older Allison 5/6 speed but you definitely need to chase down all the components and confirm the "programability" before jumping in. I wound up with a custom built 2200MH through Stewart & Stevenson and was very impressed at the amount of work they put in before even starting on building it. I still have the 15 page analysis they did to determine every parameter.

Best of luck, hope this helps a bit (Love them Allisons).

I'm in the same boat, just figured out I have a 545 behind my cummins and 5.38 gears. Figure it's better to leave the diff and change the tranny since that tranny sucks anyway. I've started a post in the how to section about tranny swaps. If you could provide any additional info please do!

http://www.4btswaps.com/forum/showthrea ... ide-thread

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Old 09-28-2014, 08:12 PM   #142
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Re: Sojourner

Got the rear stabilizer jack brackets and jacks finished and installed today (both sides, only posting pics of one side). Walking in Gimel now feels a lot like a concrete slab foundation (from the words of Lori).







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Old 09-28-2014, 08:36 PM   #143
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Re: Sojourner

Nice work...looks great!
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:27 AM   #144
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Re: Sojourner

Quote:
Ponyracer wrote
"
I'm in the same boat, just figured out I have a 545 behind my cummins and 5.38 gears"
Ouch Sorry to her that.
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Old 09-29-2014, 07:31 AM   #145
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Re: Sojourner

Was out looking at Gimel this morning getting ready for this coming weeks project (hanging the grey water tank). I was wondering, when skinning the side panels after framing for RV windows, how do you attach the top edge of the skin? Do you guys just slip it under the rain gutter and rivet the posts? Or, am I looking at drilling the rivets in the rain gutter and re-riviting the sheet metal and gutter back in place? I'm thinking the latter is best but boy, what a bunch of rivets in the rain gutter!!
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:45 AM   #146
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Re: Sojourner

I just read through your build thread.

I am continually amazed at the talent and skills displayed by so many on this forum.

Not only do I not have the imagination to fabricate the changes you have envisioned but I do not have the skill set to accomplish most of the changes you do.

I particularly like the stabilizers you have installed--an elegant low tech way to do the job.

In regards to getting better RPM's while going down the highway there are several ways to accomplish that but at some point you reach a point of diminishing returns. The power needed to go fast is an exponential curve that gets steeper the faster you want to go. You can have lots of gears and really fast gear ratios but if you don't have enough torque to get you up there and enough HP to keep you there you may actually use more fuel than you are currently.

Having said that, I have an off the wall suggestion for you. We have a used 1990 IHC/Blue Bird Type 'C' bus for sale for a ridiculously low price considering the condition of the bus. Don't let the miles on the bus give you much concern. It starts right up with barely a full turn of the starter, it starts with virtually no smoke out of the exhaust or breather, and it is one of two buses I have ever seen that came from the factory with the Allison MT653 transmission--you read that correctly a 5-speed automatic that is mechanically controlled. The transport driver said this bus will go well in excess of 70 MPH. The bus has virgin tires on both the steer and drive positions that are better than 60%. It has air brakes and axles that are most likely heavier duty than the ones on your bus and disc wheels with 10-hole Budd wheels. The only thing really wrong with it is the paint has faded so much it appears in the pictures to have a white roof--it isn't white it is school bus yellow that has fasded almost to white. Asking price as is: $3,500.00 FOB Auburn, WA http://showroom.auction123.com/thebusde ... 88586.html
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Old 09-29-2014, 11:47 AM   #147
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Re: Sojourner

Even though you are about as far away from the bus as you can get in this country without getting wet I think you can swap enough parts to make it worth your while.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:01 PM   #148
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Re: Sojourner

In regards to the pot of spaghetti you ended up with when you stripped out the unnecessary wiring it doesn't surprise me at all.

All school buses are built with a standard wiring harness that has enough circuits to power all of the anticipated wiring needs.

Outside of the obvious standard wiring at the back of the bus for lighting and crossover lights I have seen multiple roof mounted power vents (I have seen as many as four all switched individually), roof mounted strobes, A/C, lights above emergency exits (switched seperately from running or clearance lights), additional underseat heaters (I have seen as many as eight all switched individually), last row interior lights on a seperate circuit, heater booster pump, wheelchair lifts, wheelchair lift lights, vandal locks with ignition interlocks, emergency exit buzzers, etc.

By my count that would be in excess of twenty different lines running to the back of the bus. That amounts to close to 800' of wire. Multiply that by how many buses are built every year and you can imagine the many miles of wire a bus factory uses in a year for no good purpose. It is less expensive for an OEM to make wiring harnesses that cover every possibility than to make up special harnesses for one offs since most buses are more one off than standard.
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Old 09-29-2014, 12:06 PM   #149
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Re: Sojourner

In regards to your blue barrel water tank, I really like the idea of repurposing something.

My one concern is are you installing any sort of baffling inside of it?

I would think that unless it was full to the brim you could end up with some really odd tail wagging the dog characteristics as you go around corners or transistion between lanes.

You haven't said what sort of tanks you would be using for your grey and black water tanks but the same concern would apply to them if they don't have baffles built into them.

Three different tanks sloshing back and forth and up and down at different heights and moments could really make things interesting if they were all half full.
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Old 09-29-2014, 01:07 PM   #150
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Re: Sojourner

Exceptional work with the jacks! How high from the ground is the lowest point when they are all the way up? I plan on doing something similar and am wondering if it's worth the time, effort and loss of structural integrity to make them swing up. I'm trying not to add anything that hangs lower than the fuel tank.
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:52 PM   #151
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Re: Sojourner

Hey cowlitzcoach,
Auburn, WA. Now if only I still lived in WA state. I hear you on all points and am aware of the issues with Hp/Torque and gearing. I was a Marine mechanic for over 25 years and dealt with that on a daily basis. That tranny sounds fun but can't afford that kind of investment right now. Thanks for the offer though. I have 4.78 gears in it right now and think 4.10's should do fine. Lot's of flats here and very little in the way of long hills and mountains like out west.

As far as water tanks go, I plan on only traveling with the water tank completely full as I need the extra weight to soften the ride a bit. Grey water on the other hand, is always empty when traveling.

Thanks for the comments!
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Old 09-29-2014, 02:58 PM   #152
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Re: Sojourner

Hey jazty,
Thanks for the comments.
They clear the ground (fully retracted) by 16" just behind the wheel to minimize midship clearance issues. They came stock 4" too tall though and had to be completely disassembled, chopped, cranks removed, crankshafts rebuilt using 1/2" bolts and re-assembled.
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Old 10-05-2014, 04:36 PM   #153
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Re: Sojourner

Got the grey water tank bracket made and the tank temporarily hung. As with the other brackets, the straps and tensioners will go on after the hot dip galvanizing.









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Old 10-05-2014, 06:46 PM   #154
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Re: Sojourner

Great work on the tanks and support framing!
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:52 AM   #155
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Re: Sojourner

Pulled off the framing I've been working on as we have a load of stuff going to the hot dip galvanizers this week at work. Gonna be cool to see what things look like finally installed. Last sunday my son and I sheared and broke the parts for the fuel tanks as well. Gonna have to get those welded up so I can get them installed when putting the brackets back in.

I asked a while back and got no answer so I'm going to ask again.
When skinning the windows, how are you all attaching the top of the skin to the sides?
Are you drilling out all the rain gutter rivets, slipping the sheet metal under the roof piece, re-drilling and re-riveting the whole thing? Just wondering what is working for everyone else? I'm thinking ahead a bit but this has been on my mind.

Thanks for any help.
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Old 10-20-2014, 08:35 AM   #156
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Re: Sojourner

Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner
Pulled off the framing I've been working on as we have a load of stuff going to the hot dip galvanizers this week at work. Gonna be cool to see what things look like finally installed. Last sunday my son and I sheared and broke the parts for the fuel tanks as well. Gonna have to get those welded up so I can get them installed when putting the brackets back in.

I asked a while back and got no answer so I'm going to ask again.
When skinning the windows, how are you all attaching the top of the skin to the sides?
Are you drilling out all the rain gutter rivets, slipping the sheet metal under the roof piece, re-drilling and re-riveting the whole thing? Just wondering what is working for everyone else? I'm thinking ahead a bit but this has been on my mind.

Thanks for any help.

Saw a build on here where they attached angle iron along the top of the window frame and riveted the window skins to this. Looked like it worked well.
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Old 10-20-2014, 09:30 AM   #157
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Re: Sojourner

Quote:
Originally Posted by sojourner
Got the grey water tank bracket made and the tank temporarily hung. As with the other brackets, the straps and tensioners will go on after the hot dip galvanizing.















[img]http://i914.photobucket.com/albums/ac350/
A_bus_named_Sojourner/100_1813_zpsb0e89ec9.jpg[/img]










they look great. those tank brackets look incredibly strong. i which i had something like that for the under bay compartments on my bus and to mount my generator.
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Old 10-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #158
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Re: Sojourner

dgorila1, thanks for the info. That's a great idea! Gonna look into that one for sure. There is a place or two where the RV windows I am using will force me to remove a section of driprail. Other than that, I really don't want to go there if not needed.

proconsul100, yea, I'm kinda paranoid about hanging too much weight from the floor braces. I try to make sure the frames are close or bolted onto crossmembers as well to keep from twisting the frame (as if I really could). The understorage boxes will hang from the floor channels and I will be bolting the angle iron longitudinal's to every one of them to spread the load across the whole substructure.
I'm working on a similar lash up for the propane storage drawer. Just got a pair of 600lb. 30" drawer slides for that. Wish I had gotten two sets now (coulda saved on shipping) as I'm thinking of using something like that for the solar battery bank.
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Old 10-20-2014, 01:04 PM   #159
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Re: Sojourner

I have a Thomas but it has the one long drip rail like yours. I just shoved the panels up underneath the drip rail as much as I could. Riveted the three sides. Drove it to the paintbooth and the tops rattled terrible. While at paint booth I bought, I think it was locktite brand adhesive. Pushed the panels out just enough to glue the tops in and have never had a problem since. Plus ran sealer all the way around the old window opening from the inside. I'd do it again.
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Old 10-20-2014, 03:24 PM   #160
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Re: Sojourner

What size drums do you have for the tanks, or are they just for mockup? I never considered it but standard plastic drums like that would work great for waste tanks.
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