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Old 02-18-2019, 04:26 PM   #811
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About air brakes. My brake chambers are made by MGM. I was just informed that the original part number no longer exists and the current PN is 3624051 (TR2430LHD). That being said, I've been looking for a cross reference to a more readily available replacement. The current wait is 23 days. I can't imagine, if out on the road, having to wait almost a month for a brake chamber. I'd like to use a more common readily available replacement. It's a 24/30 long stroke (2.5"). Will any manufacture brake chamber with those specs work?
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Old 04-11-2019, 01:35 PM   #812
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What’s up man what’s new with your build?
I read through it these last couple days while at work. Pretty motivational . Gave me lots of ideas on my new bus.
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Old 04-20-2019, 12:37 PM   #813
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What’s up man what’s new with your build?
I read through it these last couple days while at work. Pretty motivational . Gave me lots of ideas on my new bus.

Still working on it bit by bit. I took a break from it, sort of, to pour myself into getting rid of some CC debt that's been hanging over my head. Got that zero'd now. Taking care of a couple things and then back on it. I'm putting new shocks on it this weekend and working on a rear bumper build like my front one (with trailer hitch). My brake chambers should be coming in soon so I'll be able to move it around the yard some. I'll have some more posts coming soon providing life doesn't throw a wrench in the mix (like it usually does).
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Old 04-22-2019, 12:18 AM   #814
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Originally Posted by sojourner View Post
About air brakes. My brake chambers are made by MGM. I was just informed that the original part number no longer exists and the current PN is 3624051 (TR2430LHD). That being said, I've been looking for a cross reference to a more readily available replacement. The current wait is 23 days. I can't imagine, if out on the road, having to wait almost a month for a brake chamber. I'd like to use a more common readily available replacement. It's a 24/30 long stroke (2.5"). Will any manufacture brake chamber with those specs work?

I would swap the 24/30 chambers out for the very common 30/30 chambers. Most brake chambers that work on 'S'-cam air brakes have similar mounting points. As long as the stroke is the same and the mounting points are the same the larger chamber (we usually refer to them as "cans") will work very well.



Be warned you will stop quicker with a lot less brake application.


But I am of the school of thought that you can never have too much braking ability.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:16 AM   #815
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I would swap the 24/30 chambers out for the very common 30/30 chambers. Most brake chambers that work on 'S'-cam air brakes have similar mounting points. As long as the stroke is the same and the mounting points are the same the larger chamber (we usually refer to them as "cans") will work very well.



Be warned you will stop quicker with a lot less brake application.


But I am of the school of thought that you can never have too much braking ability.
Thanks for the info. That's what I was hoping. Unfortunately, since I didn't get a timely reply I went ahead and ordered the original replacements (over $300.00/pair) and just got them in after the three week wait. I agree any improvement in braking capability is a good thing!! I'm looking into an ABS retrofit kit. We'll be doing ABS upfit on container chassis's where I work and I'm considering removing my Dayton spokes and installing stud piloted (unless I can find hub piloted) hubs on my axles. This will allow me to get hubs with tone rings for the ABS system. One things for sure, I have to do a complete seals, bearings, brake job and ujoints as part of my build. Getting all the chassis work done before I begin the interior. I see so many doing it the other way around. Personally, I think it's a bad idea to leave the mechanicals until they need repair. That strategy, you would agree, will always bite you in the behind.
Now, if I can only find a salvage bus with the axles I'm looking for.
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Old 04-24-2019, 06:36 AM   #816
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Thanks for the info. That's what I was hoping. Unfortunately, since I didn't get a timely reply I went ahead and ordered the original replacements (over $300.00/pair) and just got them in after the three week wait. I agree any improvement in braking capability is a good thing!! I'm looking into an ABS retrofit kit. We'll be doing ABS upfit on container chassis's where I work and I'm considering removing my Dayton spokes and installing stud piloted (unless I can find hub piloted) hubs on my axles. This will allow me to get hubs with tone rings for the ABS system. One things for sure, I have to do a complete seals, bearings, brake job and ujoints as part of my build. Getting all the chassis work done before I begin the interior. I see so many doing it the other way around. Personally, I think it's a bad idea to leave the mechanicals until they need repair. That strategy, you would agree, will always bite you in the behind.
Now, if I can only find a salvage bus with the axles I'm looking for.

Not sure exactly what you are hoping to achieve by swapping axles, axle ends, or going to ABS.


In my experience the ABS in most buses was not much of an improvement over the non-ABS brakes. You would be adding a LOT of complexity and achieving very little increase in stopping ability.


Now if you were swapping axles to get bigger brake drums, now that I can understand.


The Crown Supercoach our church owns has 11" brakes up front and 13" brakes in back. It has 30 cans up front and 36/36 cans in the rear. When you step on the brakes in that bus you stop right NOW!



The WA state spe'c for new RE buses is the front brakes have to be at least 6" and the rear brakes are at least 8". IMHO those are some pretty whimpy brakes. They definitely would get hot very fast on any sort of downgrade. Fortunately most of the new buses also come with an engine exhaust auxiliary braking system that can help slow the bus down.


One other thought about swapping the Dayton spokes for 10-hole Budd wheels--it is very easy to remove a Dayton spoke wheel with hand tools and it is very hard to remove a 10-hole Budd wheel with hand tools.
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Old 04-24-2019, 07:54 PM   #817
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Not sure exactly what you are hoping to achieve by swapping axles, axle ends, or going to ABS.


In my experience the ABS in most buses was not much of an improvement over the non-ABS brakes. You would be adding a LOT of complexity and achieving very little increase in stopping ability.


Now if you were swapping axles to get bigger brake drums, now that I can understand.


The Crown Supercoach our church owns has 11" brakes up front and 13" brakes in back. It has 30 cans up front and 36/36 cans in the rear. When you step on the brakes in that bus you stop right NOW!



The WA state spe'c for new RE buses is the front brakes have to be at least 6" and the rear brakes are at least 8". IMHO those are some pretty whimpy brakes. They definitely would get hot very fast on any sort of downgrade. Fortunately most of the new buses also come with an engine exhaust auxiliary braking system that can help slow the bus down.


One other thought about swapping the Dayton spokes for 10-hole Budd wheels--it is very easy to remove a Dayton spoke wheel with hand tools and it is very hard to remove a 10-hole Budd wheel with hand tools.

Thanks for the info. Things worth considering to be sure.
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Old 04-26-2019, 11:10 AM   #818
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Getting all the chassis work done before I begin the interior. I see so many doing it the other way around. Personally, I think it's a bad idea to leave the mechanicals until they need repair. That strategy, you would agree, will always bite you in the behind.
I'm waiting. I have a tranny leak at a heat exchanger. The bus isn't being driven anywhere so no need to fix it just yet. I'm going to let whatever is rusting away keep rusting. Then I'll fix whatever mechanical issues show up. Rather have fresh parts when I'm ready to drive than two years worth of dry-rot/rust/whatever.
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:40 PM   #819
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I'm waiting. I have a tranny leak at a heat exchanger. The bus isn't being driven anywhere so no need to fix it just yet. I'm going to let whatever is rusting away keep rusting. Then I'll fix whatever mechanical issues show up. Rather have fresh parts when I'm ready to drive than two years worth of dry-rot/rust/whatever.

Typically the only things that will "dry rot" are those things exposed to UV. Tires, for sure. Brake shoes, brake drums, u-joints, shocks, etc, no problem. The brake chambers (diaphrams) are in need of service on mine so I'll change them. Now I have a set of chambers to rebuild (yes I know how to do it safely albeit not the emergency brake side that's permanently crimped).


I'd much rather have a serviced and repaired drivetrain. Been doing maintenance and repair on equipment for over 40 years. PM's are ALWAYS a good idea. One never knows when they need their vehicle able to move safely.
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Old 05-01-2019, 07:43 PM   #820
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cowlitzcoach, you don't know of a reasonable place to get brake drums for these Dayton spokes do you? $400.00 each is a bit crazy when stud piloted hubs are much cheaper (another reason I'm considering changing over).
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