Sojourner

[sojourner]

I'm using a 55 gallon drum (22.5" diameter) for fresh water and a 33 gallon drum (19" diameter) for grey water. No black water tank as we're doing a compost toilet. I'll be adding level indicator switches and plumbing them through both the bungs and venting through the very top (side) using uniseals. I'll post pics when I get them permanently mounted. Hopefully I can get the parts sandblasted before the truck goes to the galvanizer. I'm also using mobile home straps and tighteners to hang and hold them. The straps are rated at 3400 lbs.

[sojourner]

Been a couple weeks since I last posted. Been busy, just haven't taken time to upload he pics and such. Here are a few.
I sent off some of my brackets to be hot dipped galvanized with some things from the shop i work at. Been getting it ll put back together as well as made the fuel tanks. Had to dry fit them to mark out where the sender and fuel lines will go to line up with the access cutouts in the floor. I'll sure be glad when I can finally get these tanks finished and installed. Been a on time coming but we're getting there.

Welding in the baffles in the tanks.


Fitting the top.


Tank dry fitted into the frame ready to bolt into place.


Frame and tank bolted to the frame (this is the same on both sides).


Rear stabilizer jacks bolted in.




Lookin' down the port side.


Grey water tank strapped in.


Also did some work on the propane drawer but will get pics when I get it finished.

[Tango]

Good lookin' work! --- and your welding skills are obviously superior to mine. I wouldn't even attempt fuel tanks. BTW...just how much fuel will you have on board when they are all topped off?

[sojourner]

Hey Tango,
Thanks for the comments. Yea, 12 ga fuel tanks welded with a mig can be a bit tricky. Not too bad though if you get the machine set up right. Just can't hang around too long in one place.

The tanks total capacity allowing for some expansion is 65 gallons each. That would be 130 gallons total with a range of about 1400 miles. Plenty of capacity to take advantage of less expensive fuel stops.

[Tango]

Roger that --- having extended range can make a huge difference. I am shooting for about 1100 miles on my shorty. Course that will require getting about 25 mpg, but I think I might just pull it off with my little 4BT and double OD tranny.

[sojourner]

Wow, a month flies by fast. I finally got the tanks finished, pressure tested, painted an strapped into the carriages I made for them. It took a while before I was able to get them installed as I discovered I would not be able to access the rails for the basement storage frames once I installed the tanks. I had to go ahead and get the outer frame rails made and installed. I'm using 1-1/2" x 1/8" angle iron to frame the basement storage as well as the place for the skin to attach. I made a few hundred clips at work during lunch breaks and clamped them to the floor hat channels, drilled them and tacked the rail to the clips. I then unbolted them, took them in the shop and welded them proper. Primed them and re-installed.







Tank all strapped in. Was going to use two straps in the beginning but had to abandon one as I had to put the fuel pickup and return and sender where the strap would cross.



Got the fuel tanks bolted to the frame rails and cross members installed.





I also got the main water tank installed.







Can't even see the water tank from in front of the differential.



Next weekend I'll plumb the fuel likes and get the filter mounted. I'm using marine fuel valves (main and return) as well as a fuel water separator I had laying around. The plan is to run 1/2" (I.D.) fuel lines throughout the whole system.

[Dragonpop]

Your build is looking great, you've got enough galvanized material in there to make it sea worthy.
I would suggest that you get a plug in the left rear maxi brake canister to keep dirt and grime
from filling up the pocket for the release tool if the occasion should ever happen. Keep the
pictures coming.

[sojourner]

Thanks for the reminder on the brakes. I have to do a complete service on them anyhow as well as replace the rear wheel bearing seals and repack the front bearings. If I can find a 4.10:1 differential (I have a 4.78:1 now), I'd like to replace it when I pull the rear axles to do the seals.

[browncrown]

I envy you guys with the great welding and metal skills...Great Job!!!

[Dragonpop]

For the parts you are looking to change I would recommend Fleet Pride. They seem to have a good selection
of parts for the medium duty vehicles and the prices are better than Napa.

[sojourner]

Hey Dragonpop,
What a coincidence! We have one in North Charleston. I was in there the other day talking to them. Bringing in my VIN next time I go in to town.

Thanks,
Travis

[sojourner]

It's been a while since I posted. My plans were to get the floor up over the holidays but as I found out, plans are just that, plans. Christmas eve my youngest daughter went to town in her older sisters neon and apparently hydroplaned and totaled the car. She spun off the road and an oak tree tried to fit itself in the back seat. The bumper got in the way and is now sitting in the back seat. Thankfully she walked away from the accident without so much as a scratch!! The accident happened in front of a friends house and before he could get out to see what all the noise was, she was at his front door. As such my plans changed and I have to go into car build mode. We had a spare parts neon here and I'm going to try to put something together from the two. Needless to say, any serious work on Gimel has been postponed until I get a car on the road for my oldest daughter. I did get the fuel hoses and filter installed before the accident and today got the fuel lines secured, purged and the engine started. It was good to hear the engine running off the fuel from the new dual tanks. Here are some pics of the installation.

The view from the fuel tank access from the floor to service fuel hoses and sender.


I used marine type "A" 1/2" fuel hose throughout. Expensive but heavy duty. I attached them to the cross-members with vinyl coated cable clamps and self drilling and tapping screws.


Fuel hoses coming forward to the fuel filter via the right inner fender well. A cross-member for the transmission kept me from running the hoses inside the frame channels.


The fuel/water separator is a takeout from a boat years ago. The old flasher wiring compartment makes a dandy place to install it along with the relocated power steering reservoir.


Fuel valves located next to driver. I used marine type valves, one for supply and the other for return. We're trying to keep things as reliable as possible and as such manual.


Trav.

[wauto]

Very nice work. Good luck with the neon. Glad your daughter is OK.

[cowlitzcoach]

I have no idea why IC still doesn't make a cross member with cut outs to allow wiring, hoses, and who knows what to travel easily down a frame rail.

I like your repurpose of the electrical box.

I also appreciate your attention to detail and ruggedness of your design.

Glad your daughter wasn't hurt and it was just a car that was damaged.

[sojourner]

I have a question for those who've moved their door to make a co-pilot seat up front. What type windows did you use? I'm using RV windows behind the cab area. Whatever window I decide to use for the cab I want it to be the same on both sides. IF I go with a stock unit I'll have to cut it down to make it work on the passenger side as there isn't the same amount of room available. I have no problem doing so as I plan on rebuilding the drivers side if I do decide to use them. I like the stock ones as both slides work. If Iw as to go stock, does anyone know where I might find one? Salvage parts seem to be a bit hard to find as school districts won't even sell parts off their salvage units. If I go the RV window route (would probably look much better) does anyone know of a RV window that can be used on either side and both window's slide? It's a bit down the road but I am also thinking way ahead.

[Malkieri]

Lorna has mentioned this place a few times... I think it lacks any web presence though.

Wade's Garage
198 Alonzo Wade Rd.
Alto, GA 30510
Mon - Fri 8AM-5PM
706-778-6400
706-778-4721
706-778-5341
706-778-8739
Or you could search through the junkyard sticky under conversion discussion. Here's a handy link to it!
http://www.skoolie.net/forums/showthread.php?t=270

[sojourner]

Thanks for the info. I've tried to call Wades several times but they never answer their phone and don't have an answering machine. If I knew they had what I needed (window, matching seat and a couple air ride units) I'd probably make a trip there.

[cowlitzcoach]

New replacement windows with frames are available.

They are all pretty generic whether they are BB, Thomas, or IC.

I have no idea on costs but I wouldn't think they would be that expensive.

[sojourner]

Thanks for the suggestion cowlitz. I'm wondering where a person would get replacement parts for the windows like the channels and the rubber seals and such? The stock windows look easy enough to disassemble and if I had another one I think it would be a pretty easy thing to cut one down to fit the smaller opening on the passenger side. Now, to find another window.

[headinthetrees]

Glad your daughter was unharmed, sounds like she got pretty lucky considering the damage.