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Old 08-31-2016, 06:22 PM   #321
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a simple diode will do for the speedo signal typically as you dont want the impedence of the second device on the sensor circuit.. sometiomes just making sure you have the same polarity on bot hdevices is enough...

on my old monte carlo hotrod I didnt need anything other than to make sure the correct polarity for both the speedo and the cruise unit...

I didnt look at the GM unit only because i thought they were still all vacuum controlled units.. I typically dont like to put used parts in just because time is of the essence for me so having to replace something twice is worth it to me to buy a new cruise unit... esp when im talking a couple hundred bucks for a full kit with dash mounted buttons, controller, actuator ,etc...

-Christopher
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Old 08-31-2016, 10:17 PM   #322
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I can't say anything about any car makers module, I didn't research any farther as this is the original info I got and it works.

My understanding is that if the module is NOT wired to use terminal H it will work. The module I used #25169208 was used on GM trucks for a number of years. Terminal H receives a signal from the ECM and you wouldn't have that. I read somewhere that the truck module has a longer cable. I got mine off of E bay for, I think about $50 I lucked out and they cut the harness wires so I got the plug.

Here are three web sites that I used to verify my original info. The first one being the most useful. I originally found a better one but, I lost the bookmark and couldn't find it again.

You want GM cruise control on your cable driven TB - LS1TECH

GM Cruise Control How-To Info

Retrofit of 1990's chevy truck cruise control to a Trifive [Archive] - TriFive.com, 1955 Chevy 1956 chevy 1957 Chevy Forum , Talk about your 55 chevy 56 chevy 57 chevy - Belair , 210, 150 sedans , Nomads and Trucks, Research, Free Tech Advice

I'm pretty good at searching the web but the info on this kind of thing seems to be a bit scarce, and I haven't found anything about using any other module. Maybe you will have better luck.

Dick
Lots of reading to do. Yea, this info, for some reason, is quite obscure. Gonna look into this a good bit. With an FE this should be a relatively easy thing to do as far as hardware.
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Old 08-31-2016, 11:00 PM   #323
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I have posted pictures and wiring diagrams on my web site. Module is made to work on accelerator pedal, partly because the engine is in the back and, I was told, but not verified that it isn't strong enough to pull against the governor. I has recently occurred to me that a steering wheel button assy could be done using a four relay RC module.

Link to web page.
Cruise Control

Enjoy,
Dick
On the disengage circuit, does the switch need to remain open to disengage (terminal "D"/#92) or simply momentarily break the circuit and will not engage until one hits the resume on "C"/#85? If this is the case, I could simply wire in a 12VDC relay powered by the brake pedal switch to break the circuit with the brake engaged and a momentary off to manually disengage the unit.
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:29 AM   #324
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Quote:
On the disengage circuit, does the switch need to remain open to disengage (terminal "D"/#92) or simply momentarily break the circuit and will not engage until one hits the resume on "C"/#85?
The switches are momentary, you only need to break the circuit for it do disengage. It will only "resume" by hitting the resume button. Just like in a car it will remember last setting as long as it has power to the module.

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If this is the case, I could simply wire in a 12VDC relay powered by the brake pedal switch to break the circuit with the brake engaged and a momentary off to manually disengage the unit
Are you talking about the brake light switch or the brake pedal switch? I assume but never tested, that the unit will disengage when it "sees" power to the brake lights. Why else would it even be involved. The biggest problem I see with air brakes that use an air pressure switch to turn on the brake lights is you have to actually apply the brakes to turn them on. With the switch on the pedal, as soon as you touch the pedal it will disengage. It's also handy to disengage by simply touching the brake pedal. The relay would work, but why use a relay when a simple switch will work? It also adds two more wires. If you have hydraulic brakes, you probably have a pedal switch, then the relay makes more sense to me.

Does anyone else remember when cars used a pressure switch for brake lights?

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With an FE this should be a relatively easy thing to do as far as hardware
True, make sure it's strong enough to pull the governor before final mounting. Both of the buses that I know this works on are rear engine with air throttles. One is an MCI with a Detroit, he is where I got the plans. He said he tried for quite a while to figure out how to get it to work in the back and was unsuccessful, it just wasn't strong enough. I know my governor pulls pretty hard on the engine. I'm not sure how your pedal is connected, probably with some sort of bell crank, you could probably pull where it pulls.

Dick
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:37 AM   #325
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the beauty of DIY is it can be wired to stay hot either with a timer or anytime the main disconnect is on so you dont lose your resume setting at quick stops!..

I never thought about the fact with air brakes you actually have tio apply pressure to the lines to get the disengage.. although its easy enough just to hit the cancel button on the switch to cancel as well .. the brake switch would only be used when you actually do brake.. saves adding more components that can fail

-Christopher
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:41 AM   #326
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Are you talking about the brake light switch or the brake pedal switch? I assume but never tested, that the unit will disengage when it "sees" power to the brake lights. Why else would it even be involved. The biggest problem I see with air brakes that use an air pressure switch to turn on the brake lights is you have to actually apply the brakes to turn them on. With the switch on the pedal, as soon as you touch the pedal it will disengage. It's also handy to disengage by simply touching the brake pedal. The relay would work, but why use a relay when a simple switch will work? It also adds two more wires. If you have hydraulic brakes, you probably have a pedal switch, then the relay makes more sense to me.
Dick
I do have air brakes so I might have to wire in another switch. It would be easy though to wire a relay off the brake light circuit since that wire is very close to where I'd have to mount everything and I have a bunch of the little cube relays with wiring harnesses left over from my boat tech days (they use them on power trim and tilt). I'll have to check in to just how that circuit is activated.

Thanks for all the info and help!! GREATLY APPRECIATED!! If I ever do get the opportunity to meet you in person, the meals on me !!
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Old 09-01-2016, 07:56 AM   #327
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True, make sure it's strong enough to pull the governor before final mounting. Both of the buses that I know this works on are rear engine with air throttles. One is an MCI with a Detroit, he is where I got the plans. He said he tried for quite a while to figure out how to get it to work in the back and was unsuccessful, it just wasn't strong enough. I know my governor pulls pretty hard on the engine. I'm not sure how your pedal is connected, probably with some sort of bell crank, you could probably pull where it pulls.

Dick
I wonder what the travel length is on these units? By the way, I just got three (two good and one for parts) off ebay for about $30.00. I'm thinking a lever on the throttle arm to match the travel length should get us the needed pull.
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Old 09-01-2016, 03:59 PM   #328
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That's a really good deal. I don't know travel, I didn't need much. In one of the links, I think the third one, one of the guys rigged up a pulse generator to bench test, I think using an Uno. That could be done to check travel if needed.
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Old 09-01-2016, 04:12 PM   #329
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That's a really good deal.
Time will tell. Time will tell. Ebay is for gamblers when buying used stuff.
Here's what I got:
1990's GMC Chevy Cruise Control Motor | eBay

If nothing else I should be able to make one from all the parts.

Cool idea n the pulse generator to check things. Unfortunately what I have in metalworking and woodworking tools I lack in electronics toys. Maybe gonna have to work on that some day !
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Old 09-01-2016, 05:30 PM   #330
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Since the covers are off you should be able to check travel.
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