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Old 03-07-2012, 04:38 PM   #61
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Wow, what beautiful weather we're having. I took advantage of it and got the first skin put on today. WOOHOO.

As with everything the first took a while to figure out how I would do everything. I got Mumsywumsy involved in holding some bolts I couldn't reach. I had to pull the area where I cut the old roof back into place so I could rivet things back together. We put a bolt in every other hole, then riveted then replaced the bolts with rivets. After we got going on it, it really didn't take long. Hopefully the rest of this side will go quickly since I now know how I'll make the window frames and install the skin.
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Old 03-08-2012, 04:49 PM   #62
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Google Cleco fasteners and pliers. They are a big help in putting sheet metal on metal.
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Old 03-08-2012, 05:03 PM   #63
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Re: Somewhereinusa

I have cleco's, the clamps are holding a glued section that doesn't have any holes in it yet.
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Old 03-08-2012, 08:44 PM   #64
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Re: Somewhereinusa

the way the skin on my bus was done, it was put in small 2feet section and rivited. that way it dose not get wavy...be sure to use a sealant in between the steel bus framing and the skin. it will remain to flexible and it will rattle bad.
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Old 03-09-2012, 12:17 AM   #65
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Just maybe the best trick to avoid "oil canning" on a skin job is to make sure & heat it up good as you attach it. Plain old propane/butane torch will do. If you put it on cold, the first time it warms up, it will expand and wrinkle like crazy. Steel is not as bad as aluminum, but either will buckle in heat if fastened down while too cool.
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Old 03-09-2012, 04:45 AM   #66
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Just maybe the best trick to avoid "oil canning" on a skin job is to make sure & heat it up good as you attach it. Plain old propane/butane torch will do. If you put it on cold, the first time it warms up, it will expand and wrinkle like crazy. Steel is not as bad as aluminum, but either will buckle in heat if fastened down while too cool.

Mine did that...
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Old 03-09-2012, 01:17 PM   #67
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Hey dirtygoat --- don't feel too bad. I've seen some high-dollar "professional" conversions where the same thing happened. Looked great until the first hot spell, then...WTF!!??
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:33 PM   #68
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tango
Just maybe the best trick to avoid "oil canning" on a skin job is to make sure & heat it up good as you attach it. Plain old propane/butane torch will do. If you put it on cold, the first time it warms up, it will expand and wrinkle like crazy. Steel is not as bad as aluminum, but either will buckle in heat if fastened down while too cool.
Is there any chance of separating from rivets after cooling? In other words, can it be overheated (while using common sense that is)?
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Old 03-09-2012, 11:49 PM   #69
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Re: Somewhereinusa

Anybody remember Smitty. He welded his skins on and I guess they oil canned pretty bad. He covered over the the metal with FRP. I built window blanks with FRP laminated to plywood using epoxy resin. After I installed them, and painted the bus, they developed blisters. Really bummed me out for a while until I got used to it, and anyway, it's only a school bus.
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Old 03-10-2012, 10:07 AM   #70
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Re: Somewhereinusa

which steel u guys using? hot or cold rolled?
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