Somewhereinusa

[wmkbailey]

I want to get the basic heat working for this winter and realized the same thing. My system is running of the bus battery and I plan to move it all to a house battery. For this winter I will use the existing heaters in the bus, just move how everything is powered. Next year I will start to add in floor heat and replace the bus heaters.

One question I had is how do you have it setup to drain the in floor heat, in case you have down time in the winter?

I also have the same issue with Durango, he like a cold floor. He spend his time on my tile floor in the winter.

[somewhereinusa]

One question I had is how do you have it setup to drain the in floor heat, in case you have down time in the winter?

I'm using antifreeze designed for radiant heat. Good to -30 or so. If it gets that cold around here I'll have other things to worry about

[JakeC]

Love it!! Definitely my plan for my next conversion. I like how you are doing it as well.

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

I'm using antifreeze designed for radiant heat. Good to -30 or so. If it gets that cold around here I'll have other things to worry about

My diesel heater puts out 170 degress. I was told that is too hot for in floor heat, I should heat water in a water heater to 120. Then use that to heat the floor. I guess I will need two because I don't want to bath in antifreeze.

[nat_ster]

As long as your pex is rated for it, your fine.

Can you turn it down?

Nat

[wmkbailey]

No, there isn't an adjustment for the thermostat. There is a 160 degree replacement for it.

With 170 degrees wouldn't that be a little too hot on your feet.

[Malkieri]

Originally Posted by wmkbailey

No, there isn't an adjustment for the thermostat. There is a 160 degree replacement for it.

With 170 degrees wouldn't that be a little too hot on your feet.

What if you ran that 170 degree through a small heater core with small fan to pull air through? That should knock down the temp a bit AND heat the air a bit, making the floor do less work. Heck it may be more efficient too. What do you think?

[wmkbailey]

Originally Posted by Malkieri

What if you ran that 170 degree through a small heater core with small fan to pull air through? That should knock down the temp a bit AND heat the air a bit, making the floor do less work. Heck it may be more efficient too. What do you think?

I'm planning to use a heater core with the in floor heat. The diesel heater keeps the water between 156 - 167. I was going to use it to heat water in a water heater to 120 for the floor. I thought I read somewhere 170 was to hot for the floor.

[Malkieri]

If you run it through a heater core before the floor, it is going to cool a bit going through the core as the air will pull some of the heat off it. Before routing 2 systems and such check temps coming OUT of heater core.... Try changing air flow and see what effect it has on temps. Who knows, you may get lucky and hit your target without a ton of extra effort.

[nat_ster]

To hot for the floor would also depend on floor covering, ect. Hard wood would show damage from such temps being run, while tile, or in slab would love the extra heat.

I like the Ida of running it through the heater core first.

Nat

[wmkbailey]

I talked with a local hydronic guy who told me that around here, feed water temperatures are:
80 to 85 degrees for tube in slab
100 to 110 for on top of floor heating
120 to 130 for below floor (AKA: staple up) heating

We will fall in the below floor (AKA: staple up) heating. I was also told it would work best if you radiant barrier at least 1" below the tubing, then your insulation.

Any more updated on your heating?

[wmkbailey]

Sorry, lots of question here.

Did you put a thermostat on your heater cores so the fans won’t come on until the water is above 110 degrees?

[somewhereinusa]

Did you put a thermostat on your heater cores so the fans won’t come on until the water is above 110 degrees

The simple answer is yes. I didn't add it, it came as part of the heater. It's just some sort of sensor with two spades and it is tie wrapped to the inlet tube of the heater. I can't find anything like it or get any useful numbers off of the unit itself. Since the heater uses small muffin fans this can handle the current.



Any suggestions on where to find a replacement. One of my heaters didn't have one and I would like to add it.

Dick

[bansil]

Ebay,folks use those to turn fans on for,amps,invertors all sorts of things

[wmkbailey]

I was looking at them here.

http://www.suremarineservice.com/aquastats.aspx

[somewhereinusa]

Ok, I probably won't be working on the bus for a while.

[ol trunt]

I've got to hand it to you guys who live with that white s*** year in and year out. If it got below 33 degrees F in my bus the tanks would all rupture and the diesel wouldn't start and I'd freeze to death. (some say they should be so lucky). While I was finishing up the scrawny 2" of foam insulation under my bus today I said my thanks to my parents for having moved me from Duluth to sunny Kalifornia!

[roach711]

All I can say is "thank God for snow blowers." I just came in from blowing a foot of snow off our 150' driveway and if I had to shovel the thing I'd be out there all day. On the other hand, we've had three snow days so far this winter.

[somewhereinusa]

I usually thank God I have a tractor with a lift on it, but the clutch went out on it after that last little snow we had a few weeks ago. So, I've been shifting that foot of snow by hand. And my drive way is about 1/8 mile. It's too cold for me to stay out very long, so I break up some with the car and shovel it a little at a time. I don't have to go anywhere until Saturday. The real treat will be that last 25 feet that the plows have piled up at the end.

[bansil]

Originally Posted by somewhereinusa

The real treat will be that last 25 feet that the plows have piled up at the end.

chain a spare car hood to the bus's front bumper...walla..snow plow