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Old 09-18-2016, 10:57 PM   #131
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I spend enough time at work in the BBQ, bus is on hold til the heat breaks.

I've got your back on the wheel wells, I've got a Lincoln 140 mig weldpak. I know you've got a generator onsite but I don't know if it will have the juice to run the MIG, that's a question for someone else. As for knowing how, with fluxcore its damn near point and shoot, welds won't be pretty but they will hold.
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:33 AM   #132
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Ouch! --- Sorry to hear about the rust through. But around the wheel wells and entry steps are the two most common areas.

How many of the wheel wells are rusted through?
Thanks for the info Tango. All 4 of the wheel wells have an approx. 8" hole in the front and back of the wells. I'll make sure to undercoat the bottoms of the new metal before I attach it.
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Old 09-19-2016, 06:39 AM   #133
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I spend enough time at work in the BBQ, bus is on hold til the heat breaks.

I've got your back on the wheel wells, I've got a Lincoln 140 mig weldpak. I know you've got a generator onsite but I don't know if it will have the juice to run the MIG, that's a question for someone else. As for knowing how, with fluxcore its damn near point and shoot, welds won't be pretty but they will hold.
Thanks much Chili, I may just take you up on that. I'll be moving to a covered storage facility with 50 amp power included in each bay as soon as a spot opens up. I'll postpone the floor work until then. That should power the welder just fine.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:28 AM   #134
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Working in the shade is cheating
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:35 AM   #135
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It may be easiest to replace the complete panel on each side of the wells. On a lot of buses, they are a slightly smaller panel than the others that has a support at each end. Either way...look them over carefully from below before doing any cutting.
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:29 AM   #136
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Working in the shade is cheating
I have to agree with you there Chili. But at 62 years of age I just can't take the heat like I used to....lol.
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:30 AM   #137
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It may be easiest to replace the complete panel on each side of the wells. On a lot of buses, they are a slightly smaller panel than the others that has a support at each end. Either way...look them over carefully from below before doing any cutting.
Will do Tango. Thanks again for the tip . Here is the size i'm talking about. I took this vid on Saturday.

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Old 09-19-2016, 11:42 AM   #138
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can you just use automotive seam sealer and rivet metal in? im assuming you are going to cover all of it on the interior with other floor materials where the rivet heads wouldnt be an issue, rather than having to weld..
-Christopher
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Old 09-19-2016, 12:08 PM   #139
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can you just use automotive seam sealer and rivet metal in? im assuming you are going to cover all of it on the interior with other floor materials where the rivet heads wouldnt be an issue, rather than having to weld..
-Christopher
I'm not opposed to going that route either. I just want the easiest way with the best seal that I can do myself. And you are correct, I'll be putting down 1/2" XPS foam board insulation first on top of the metal floor, and then putting 1/2" OSB plywood on top of the insulation, then my final flooring on top of the OSB. So none of the rivets or welding would ever be seen.
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Old 09-20-2016, 01:23 PM   #140
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Couple of questions today. Do any of you have something similar on your bus? I know it's not a Webasto and I'm assuming it's for heating the inside of the bus. Is there any reason why I shouldn't take this out? I do not need it for the additional inside heat.




Second question. Can I safely remove this flasher unit or does it have some type of buzzer alarm or engine defeat switch if I take it out?

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