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Old 09-20-2016, 12:37 PM   #141
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Will do Tango. Thanks again for the tip . Here is the size i'm talking about. I took this vid on Saturday.


My husband has put many cars trucks and yes even a bus together. He was body man painter for 45yr.s.

He said cut out all that rust replace with new same gauge metal as floor. It will weld right up to it.

Otherwise it will keep rustign till there is no floor.
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Old 09-21-2016, 08:30 AM   #142
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Here is a great new product for those of us who need to conserve water in our Skoolies.

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects...f=project_link
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:15 AM   #143
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I had a weldon 7000. I Google it found the manual and read about the wire connections then removed it. It's a fancy flasher controller for the "bus lights"

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Old 09-21-2016, 09:18 AM   #144
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Personally I would not consider any method other than welding. Remember...the floor is part of the structure and should be capable of transmitting any torsional loads.
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Old 09-21-2016, 09:26 AM   #145
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Personally I would not consider any method other than welding. Remember...the floor is part of the structure and should be capable of transmitting any torsional loads.
Very good point Tango, thanks for the reminder
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Old 09-24-2016, 06:42 PM   #146
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Today's agenda was removing the rest of the driver side floor and taking out the last floor heater. Everything went as planned. Now just waiting on some "U" shaped heater hose fittings to close the loop once I cut them off at the heater core.





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Old 09-24-2016, 07:15 PM   #147
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what size hose? I have lots of misc stuff that fits that bill.
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:19 PM   #148
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what size hose? I have lots of misc stuff that fits that bill.
1 inch OD. Not really sure what the inside diameter is.
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:20 PM   #149
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you may justr want to block them... placing 'U's on them could cause the remaining heater cores to get low flow.. by blocking the lines you keep the pressure differential between supply and returnand force the coolant through the remaining heaters..

as for that proHeat4 I'd only wish my bus had one of those on it!!! they are bad-ass!!
they will heat your interior using diesel without your bus turned on and no need for messy propane BS..they heat your coolant so it also keeps your engine block warm for cold-starts...

-Christopher
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Old 09-24-2016, 07:57 PM   #150
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you may justr want to block them... placing 'U's on them could cause the remaining heater cores to get low flow.. by blocking the lines you keep the pressure differential between supply and returnand force the coolant through the remaining heaters..

as for that proHeat4 I'd only wish my bus had one of those on it!!! they are bad-ass!!
they will heat your interior using diesel without your bus turned on and no need for messy propane BS..they heat your coolant so it also keeps your engine block warm for cold-starts...

-Christopher
Thanks for the tip on the hose. To be honest we don't ever plan to go anywhere where the temp is below 45-50 degrees. I may go the blocking route anyway however.

If I hadn't already promised the ProHeat to Justin McCormick I'd be happy to let you have it. I didn't realize it was powered by diesel fuel though. So I guess I'll have to close up the fuel feed when I take it out. Not as easy as just removing the heater hoses I guess .
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