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Old 09-12-2016, 07:54 AM   #121
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I just run this stuff.
ive run a couple bottles of the fuel injector power cleaner stuff fro mthese guys through my bus.. since i have a small fuel tank I ran 1/2 bottle every other tank on one of my road trips..
-Christopher

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Old 09-12-2016, 07:57 AM   #122
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#2, a box fan?
I'm running one like this

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Old 09-12-2016, 03:35 PM   #123
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Scooternj, luckily I've only encountered 8 seized screws so far, so I have extra grinding wheels in the event there are more .

EastCoast that is a great fan for sure.
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Old 09-17-2016, 07:22 PM   #124
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It was another hot one today but got quite a bit accomplished. Completely removed all the flooring on the passenger side of the bus from front to back. Also got the rear heater removed and also did a little cleanup. Next Saturday I'll remove the rest of the floor.




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Old 09-17-2016, 07:30 PM   #125
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I know the school bus shops typically take a water hose and start at the front and wash front to back...watched them do it!

Fortunately, AWE ONE never saw that kind of service, I pried up a few pieces around the edge and was satisfied with what I saw. Plus I've creepy crawled under every inch of my bus and there's no significant sign of rust, but it also appears to have undercoated.

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Old 09-17-2016, 08:42 PM   #126
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Good start Flyboy! --- and it looks like mostly surface rust from what I can see. Be glad your floor wasn't coated with asphalteum. It is a royal pain to clean up. Spent part of the hot, humid Houston day doing that myself and only got a couple of square feet cleared.
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Old 09-18-2016, 03:16 AM   #127
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Fly,

I believe I was in the BBQ pit next to ya today...... I felt the heat too. Keep up the good work! Looks like that rust is an easy clean.

M
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:30 AM   #128
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Thanks Tango. I can only imagine how tough that asphalteum must be to get up. Around all my wheel wells I have large 8-10 inch holes rusted all the way through unfortunately. I'll try posting a video I took. I've never welded before nor do I own a welder and hate to buy one just for this. Is there any type of glue/epoxy/liquid weld substance that I could use to hold down the new sheet metal instead of welding? Also what size sheet metal is recommended?


M, BBQ is correct. I think I could have fried an egg in there. Really ready for the cooler weather to get here soon.
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:44 AM   #129
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Thanks Tango. I can only imagine how tough that asphalteum must be to get up. Around all my wheel wells I have large 8-10 inch holes rusted all the way through unfortunately. I'll try posting a video I took. I've never welded before nor do I own a welder and hate to buy one just for this. Is there any type of glue/epoxy/liquid weld substance that I could use to hold down the new sheet metal instead of welding? Also what size sheet metal is recommended?


M, BBQ is correct. I think I could have fried an egg in there. Really ready for the cooler weather to get here soon.
Not sure how big the hole is but I am guessing fiberglass could work? Also I will second the comment on the heat. Holy Crap, yesterday was hot in that metal cage!
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Old 09-18-2016, 08:53 AM   #130
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Ouch! --- Sorry to hear about the rust through. But around the wheel wells and entry steps are the two most common areas.

As I recall, BB used something odd like 15 ga. on their bodies but heavier on the floor. Probably at least 14 and galvanized. And it really should be welded. If rusted through at the wells, there is a good chance the support brackets may be compromised as well, so take a long, hard look from underneath while you are at it. Not a complicated repair and like most welding, the majority of the work is in prepping. You don't really need to use galvanized but it MUST be thoroughly rust treated and coated from below with something like undercoating after installing.

How many of the wheel wells are rusted through?
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Old 09-18-2016, 09:57 PM   #131
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I spend enough time at work in the BBQ, bus is on hold til the heat breaks.

I've got your back on the wheel wells, I've got a Lincoln 140 mig weldpak. I know you've got a generator onsite but I don't know if it will have the juice to run the MIG, that's a question for someone else. As for knowing how, with fluxcore its damn near point and shoot, welds won't be pretty but they will hold.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:33 AM   #132
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Ouch! --- Sorry to hear about the rust through. But around the wheel wells and entry steps are the two most common areas.

How many of the wheel wells are rusted through?
Thanks for the info Tango. All 4 of the wheel wells have an approx. 8" hole in the front and back of the wells. I'll make sure to undercoat the bottoms of the new metal before I attach it.
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Old 09-19-2016, 05:39 AM   #133
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I spend enough time at work in the BBQ, bus is on hold til the heat breaks.

I've got your back on the wheel wells, I've got a Lincoln 140 mig weldpak. I know you've got a generator onsite but I don't know if it will have the juice to run the MIG, that's a question for someone else. As for knowing how, with fluxcore its damn near point and shoot, welds won't be pretty but they will hold.
Thanks much Chili, I may just take you up on that. I'll be moving to a covered storage facility with 50 amp power included in each bay as soon as a spot opens up. I'll postpone the floor work until then. That should power the welder just fine.
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:28 AM   #134
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Working in the shade is cheating
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Old 09-19-2016, 09:35 AM   #135
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It may be easiest to replace the complete panel on each side of the wells. On a lot of buses, they are a slightly smaller panel than the others that has a support at each end. Either way...look them over carefully from below before doing any cutting.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:29 AM   #136
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Working in the shade is cheating
I have to agree with you there Chili. But at 62 years of age I just can't take the heat like I used to....lol.
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Old 09-19-2016, 10:30 AM   #137
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It may be easiest to replace the complete panel on each side of the wells. On a lot of buses, they are a slightly smaller panel than the others that has a support at each end. Either way...look them over carefully from below before doing any cutting.
Will do Tango. Thanks again for the tip . Here is the size i'm talking about. I took this vid on Saturday.

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Old 09-19-2016, 10:42 AM   #138
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can you just use automotive seam sealer and rivet metal in? im assuming you are going to cover all of it on the interior with other floor materials where the rivet heads wouldnt be an issue, rather than having to weld..
-Christopher
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Old 09-19-2016, 11:08 AM   #139
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can you just use automotive seam sealer and rivet metal in? im assuming you are going to cover all of it on the interior with other floor materials where the rivet heads wouldnt be an issue, rather than having to weld..
-Christopher
I'm not opposed to going that route either. I just want the easiest way with the best seal that I can do myself. And you are correct, I'll be putting down 1/2" XPS foam board insulation first on top of the metal floor, and then putting 1/2" OSB plywood on top of the insulation, then my final flooring on top of the OSB. So none of the rivets or welding would ever be seen.
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Old 09-20-2016, 12:23 PM   #140
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Couple of questions today. Do any of you have something similar on your bus? I know it's not a Webasto and I'm assuming it's for heating the inside of the bus. Is there any reason why I shouldn't take this out? I do not need it for the additional inside heat.




Second question. Can I safely remove this flasher unit or does it have some type of buzzer alarm or engine defeat switch if I take it out?

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